Inspection II

[Suddha]

Hey gang,

My 96 ti is up for an Inspection II at 70,000 miles. I am wondering if those of you with higher mileage cars than mine can advise as to any potential trouble spots to look for.

The shop I take it to for these things is good, but I'd like to be able to tell them certain things to check before they just blow. I have heard repeated stories about water pumps going at about my mileage. Is there any way to check the pump? I don't think so...

I had the ball joints replaced at Inspection I at 51,000 miles.

Any input you can give would be appreciated.

Cheers!

[1996 328ti]

Although Inspection II doesn't cover this, I'd suspect you need rear shock mounts. I believe E46 shock mounts will last longer.

Ball joints already?
You might have needed bushings too.

I'd listen closely to your front wheel bearings. The only way to really tell if you need wheel bearings is to remove the wheel and rotor. Then spin the hub. Having the weight of even just the rotor may mask the problem.

[Suddha]

Thanks for the advice... and yeah, ball joints already... In fact, I've had them replaced twice now!!

I'll look into the rear shock mounts and wheel bearings.

Do you think the water pump is worth replacing as a precaution? I don't want to get stranded this summer in the middle of South Dakota or something.

[myred318i]

Can I make a suggestion... if you're just a little bit mechanically inclined... buy a Bentley's repair manual and do as much of this stuff (Insp. I & II) as you can. These cars are EXTREMELY easy to work on, if you just muster the courage to start in. I've found that they are almost simple, as in minimal knuckle-busting involved, to do most maintenance type work. (I'm not talking about pulling engines or replacing the tranny) I bought myself the manual, some pretty basic tool kits (Sears - wrenches, sockets metric & english) and I even splurged for a rolling tool chest at Sears for a whoppin' $75. Buy you parts online!!! Major savings, great service too. I recommend www.the-best-source.com, or www.thepartsbin.com, I've done biz w/ both, and have been happy.
Bottom line, for the $$ spent, I still saved what I would've paid the shop for an inspection, and the next time I'll only have to buy the parts, so even more savings.
Besides that, it's FUN!!

[Suddha]

Thanks for the advice. I used to work on my old 528e (oil pan gasket, valve cover, tuneups, oil changes), but this one is a bit intimidating when I raise the hood. I haven't touched a thing under there for the six years I've owned it.

I might start giving it a go now... I have another vehicle to drive if I get stuck with something now.

[1996 328ti]

I agree on doing at least some of the Inspection stuff yourself.

I did the microfilters, oil and filter, air filter and spark plugs.

I left the messy stuff for the dealer.
Tranny fluid, rear fluid and gas filter.

[kevin]

I have a 1998 ti, and I'm interested in picking up the Bentley manual. But I've been a bit confused by the catalogs I've looked at. Which manual is the right one? And does anyone have any suggestions as to retailers?

Thanks...

[myred318i]

I have the Bentley manual. For me, it covers just about everything that I'm willing to tackle. I've heard others talking about alternative manuals, and that maybe it's a good idea to have a couple, in case one doesn't have what your looking for, or not clearly written, chances would be that the other could pickup the slack. But like I said, the Bentleys is plenty for me. I don't think it will tell you how to rebuild the motor, but that's not something that I'd really do. But it will thoroughly explain all maintenance procedures, and general repair with great clarity, good pictures, and what tools you need to do the job. Good enough for me.

[kevin]

To clarify my earlier request, I'm actually wondering which Bentley manual is the correct one. The 3 Series Service Manual 1992-1998 lists the M3, 318i, 323i, 325i, and 328i on the cover. Is this the right one for a 1998 ti?

[1996 328ti]

It's the only Bentley manual available. I suppose you could supplement it with the Z3 manual which might be useful for the rear suspension.

[kevin]

Thanks for the confirmation. I'll order a copy. I'm looking forward to getting nice and greasy.

BTW, the best price I found was $49 new at Amazon.

[DougZ]

Suddha: I do almost all of the inspection stuff myself as well.( like Steve) The only thing that I have brought it to the dealer for was to do the diff and auto trans fluids...mainly for the trans. They ended up only doing the diff fluid because the trans is the famous" lifetime" fluid. The next time, I will do the diff myself. When I finally have no more warranty at 100K miles, I will do the trans myself...I do not trust the "lifetime" fluid BS. Evreything else is pretty easy.

The funny thing is that the part that gave me the most trouble was when I was doing the microfilters. That stupid thin plastic cover that goes over them did want to back in right. I had just about destoyed it. I am sure whoever did their micorfilters knows just what I am talking about.

Another great great source for doing stuff on our cars is the unofficial BMW page by Ron Stygar: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/ronstygar.html

Hope this helps you out.

[J!m]

DON'T BELIEVE THE "LIFETIME FILL" CRAP!!!

I have my transmission and differential changed every 25K. No matter what. I pay for it. I don't care if it's lifetime filled or not. Lifetime fill it again!

If you have missed even ONE shift in that car, dump the oil as soon as possible. I know I've missed shifts, so I do it for peace of mind. AND, it's a HELL of a lot cheaper than a new gear box... It takes very little to destroy a syncro, and chipped gears are not healed by having their pieces floating in the oil bath...

Also, if you NEVER miss a shift (yeah, right), and want to save money on oil changes, for God's sake, at least make sure it stays full! Those seals do not last for ever, even if the oil supposedly does...

By the way, are you guys changing your brake fluid every two years as well???? This is a minimum, if you plan to keep the car for any length of time. The fluid is hydroscopic, as we all know, yet very few people change it. If you race, or even autocross regularly, change it more often. Again, cheap insurance.
The pads easily last over two years, so changing it with the pads like the old days is over.

As an absolute MINIMUM, when your car goes in for service I or II, add the brake fluid change as well. (the brake and clutch system share a resivoir, so it's a two-for-one deal)

Have fun!

[DCSean8]

Originally Posted by Steven Schlossman

I agree on doing at least some of the Inspection stuff yourself.

I did the microfilters, oil and filter, air filter and spark plugs.

I left the messy stuff for the dealer.
Tranny fluid, rear fluid and gas filter.

I'm up for the type 2 service too, and I also would like to do it myself. Could you explain in a little more detail all the things that need to be done, or give me a link to site that has a list?