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Old 08-04-2015, 08:30 PM   #16
smarkwilson
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New everything sensor pump thermostat radiator upper and lower hoses and rear pipe block pipe isn't leaking it seams to be fine for a day then leaks so I'm guessing rear pipe is not seated bought new from dealer going to look at the one I put on to see if seated I have three 318s so I'll probably get this one exchanged for factory through FCP Euro just worried don't want to do any head damage from overheating thanks for the help really helpfull forum
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Old 08-10-2015, 10:07 PM   #17
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hey all, just dropped off my head to get inspected. I've never used this machine shop before - actually first time using a machine shop at all. Either way it made me nervous leaving my head there. All I wanted for them to do is inspect it and repair the threads on the bottom thread of the rear water pipe inlet. I sure hope they know what they're doing. probably won't sleep till I get it back later this week. lol !
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:30 AM   #18
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hey all, just got my head back from the machine shop. He said it was barely off straight wise so he cleaned it up nice and flat now. I noticed he pulled the cams off to check everything else out, which everything else was in good shape but, I wonder if they knew you can't just pull them off. From what I've read there is a process to taking them off. Now if he didn't do that is there a way to check and see if the cams are broken? they look ok. thanks all
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:39 PM   #19
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Well I don't want to jinx it but it has been about two weeks and it is running good I bought another water pipe from dealer only a dollar more then FCP swapped out and found the problem I had damaged the O-ring when putting it in first time causing periodic leaking and running hot, hopefully it won't give me any issues the grease on O-ring made it easier to seat correctly thanks for the advice all...
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Old 08-16-2015, 03:45 PM   #20
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Good to hear. That's what it sounded like when you mentioned but what a pita right?
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Old 08-18-2015, 02:17 AM   #21
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Yes pita lot easier with valve cover and battery tray out now onto seatbelt repair airbag light on third time fix
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:59 PM   #22
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well after months of recovery, diabetes wounds on feet, am now back to putting my engine back together. problem is it's been awhile and I have forgotten a few things I did. I have my head back on with the new gasket. have the locking pin installed and blocks put on the cam. now am getting ready to put the chain tensioner back on. one thing, I pulled the chain rail bushing out completely when I was dissassembling parts. Can someone tell me when reinstalling bushing do I seat it all the way in or is there a certain number of turns out it is supposed to be left out, such as backing it out a number of turns before you put the bolt in it to lock it down ? Thanks in advance
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Old 12-18-2015, 03:00 AM   #23
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Well good luck with the diabetes take care of that first so you don't lose a leg or worst. Best of luck with your project sounds like you are almost finished and job done right, John S

Last edited by xxxJohnBoyxxx; 12-18-2015 at 03:04 AM. Reason: Added and spelling
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Old 12-18-2015, 03:11 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbush View Post
well after months of recovery, diabetes wounds on feet, am now back to putting my engine back together. problem is it's been awhile and I have forgotten a few things I did. I have my head back on with the new gasket. have the locking pin installed and blocks put on the cam. now am getting ready to put the chain tensioner back on. one thing, I pulled the chain rail bushing out completely when I was dissassembling parts. Can someone tell me when reinstalling bushing do I seat it all the way in or is there a certain number of turns out it is supposed to be left out, such as backing it out a number of turns before you put the bolt in it to lock it down ? Thanks in advance
Chain guide bushings that are adjustable are set as follows:

install chain guide and then screw or remove screw turns as follows: Adjust the bushing so it is just flush to the back surface, so make the adjustment so it just hits the bask surface then tighten the chain bolt to correct torque.

If you don't understand send me a PM and I will explain over phone.

John S

Last edited by xxxJohnBoyxxx; 12-18-2015 at 03:16 AM.
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Old 12-21-2015, 01:56 PM   #25
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sorry about getting back with you so late, but lol my damn computer monitor took a crap and just last night was able to borrow a neighbors monitor she wasn't using. When it rains it pours right? anyways thanks for the advice that clears it up for me and will be back on it shortly. Will let you know how it all comes out. thanks again.
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:06 PM   #26
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ok I have a serious problem. I put the flywheel lock pin in the hole of the flywheel and then put the blocks on the back of the cylinder over the 2 cams locking them in place so everything would line up to tdc. lined up the cam sprockets and chain also. once it was all lined up I removed flywheel pin and cam blocks and tried to turn the crank around a couple of times. It went a short ways and locked up like it was hitting something. I removed the cam sprockets and chain and moved the individual cams - no problem there. I then moved the crank and same thing happened. It felt like it was hitting a valve. I moved the cam a bit and the crank turned freely. at tdc the pistons should not be hitting a valve. Anyone have an idea whats going on? please write back, am at a loss.
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:57 PM   #27
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Well I think I figured it out already. Apparently there is 2 holes in the flywheel where you can put the flywheel locking pin in. I had no idea. I already had the starter out so I spun the flywheel around and looked at it through the starter hole and lo and behold there were 2 holes about an inch and half apart. very weird. oh well going to try it out now with it locked in at the other hole. wish me luck.
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