Steve where to source 323ti springs/Struts?

Panzer_M · 02-19-2005, 10:13 PM

Other than going via Germany direct for the parts, can i find them in the states(aftermarket source or dealer) or canada?

The 328ti uses oe 323ti springs right?

**1996 328ti** · 02-19-2005, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Panzer_M

Other than going via Germany direct for the parts, can i find them in the states(aftermarket source or dealer) or canada?

The 328ti uses oe 323ti springs right?

Mine uses OE 323ti springs, yes.
Any dealer can order them for you.
Why do you want 323ti springs?
I wanted to retain as close to stock as possible.

aceyx · 02-21-2005, 12:50 AM

stock springs are expensive from the dealer, often about the same price or more than aftermarket.

best bet is to check forums and find somebody that just upgraded. i paid about $50 for a set of stocks a while back. while you can beat it with a stick, you're going to look pretty silly.

Panzer_M · 02-21-2005, 05:17 AM

I'm looking for a setup of springs for the added weight of a 32x engine.

I've only started to look for the Suspension and cooling parts of the swap right now, figure grab stuff I can store easy and have it in the garage, so when I swap I have the parts on hand to get alot of the car done at once.
Going to buy a Fluidyne 6cyl Rad for a saloon in a Group buy here in orlando, just to have it on-hand.

**1996 328ti** · 02-21-2005, 05:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Panzer_M

Going to buy a Fluidyne 6cyl Rad for a saloon in a Group buy here in orlando, just to have it on-hand.

I have one. Also get the aluminum t-stat housing.
You might be better with M3 suspension.
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html%5Fproject/332ti/

Panzer_M · 02-21-2005, 06:07 AM

the alum Tstat housing comes with the fan-delete kit on understeer i think.

I was looking at that kit and the M50 manifold swap on there if I go with the ODB II engine instead of trying to ODB I engine to ODB II car. Should just go with a B28 and have a better engine than the M50b25.

**1996 328ti** · 02-21-2005, 06:12 AM

I'm not the one to talk to about that.
OBD-I vs OBD-II will depend on your emissions testings in your area.
I haven't really been following the M50 intake threads on bf.c.

Panzer_M · 02-21-2005, 06:20 AM

also reconsidering going to the cheap route with a M50 and spending the extra on a good M52 engine and ZF trans.

I don't want a US S52 engine, the 2.8 will be fine. I just rather not go for the S unless I can later get a EuroModel with the Sixspeed from A_A here in Florida. Although I am looking at the Z3's 2.8 and then matching it with the ecu and harness from a 3ser cause I heard from Jim I think, the Zs and 3ser don't match up exact electrical wise. I am still wary of the alloy block failures the early engines had.

Panzer_M · 02-21-2005, 08:52 AM

also looking at e30 and z3 diffs. I would pref a Z3 2.8 or 3.0 LSD diff or maybe go the route you went Steve and get a Quaife made for the swap.

Quote:

Do not buy an M52 320/323/328 with an alloy block made before 3/98 unless it's had a new engine

So I would need a Z3 made after March of 98 for the Niksil block to be sleeved right?

isn't it just easier, safer and cheaper to find a 328i's engine? With the Iron block it's still close to the load carried by the 323ti in the front?

**1996 328ti** · 02-21-2005, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Panzer_M

also looking at e30 and z3 diffs. I would pref a Z3 2.8 or 3.0 LSD diff or maybe go the route you went Steve and get a Quaife made for the swap.

Quote:

Do not buy an M52 320/323/328 with an alloy block made before 3/98 unless it's had a new engine

So I would need a Z3 made after March of 98 for the Niksil block to be sleeved right?

isn't it just easier, safer and cheaper to find a 328i's engine? With the Iron block it's still close to the load carried by the 323ti in the front?

You can probably find a 328 iron block easier. The weight difference is not that significant.

**J!m** · 02-21-2005, 08:30 PM

If you go with the iron block six, just go with Bilstein M3 struts and (M3) springs. You will want to change to the M3 sway bar as well, since it is a better design than the other 3-series use. You may also want to get the M3 caster tops, to increase caster. These bolt right on...

Going the M3 route opens up a WORLD of spring options for you. I personally went with the Factory Euro M3 springs, and I like them a lot (ordered from my local dealer). Not too low, and plenty stiff for a predominantly road driven car. I think they are about 20% stiffer than the US M3 springs. If you don't hodge-podge too much, it make repairs easier down the road too...

Panzer_M · 02-22-2005, 06:51 AM

Jim you still selling your swap guide?

and M52B28 w/ M50 intake manifold swap from Understeer.com would own a Normal M50b25 right?
and there is now a good supporting aftermarket for the 2.8 nowdays it seems?

Panzer_M · 02-22-2005, 06:53 AM

Btw, what would I use on the rear? if I use OE M3 parts on the front?
going Bilstein Sports again on the next setup, got them on the Ti right now with Vogtlands and love the suspension I have now.

**J!m** · 02-23-2005, 06:50 PM

I run M roadster springs on the rear with Bilstein sport shocks and M Coupe` sway bar.

I had to use a 'race' type upper shock mount as mine ripped out. I also added the roadster's stiffener for the upper shock mount, which I think is a good idea for all tis, regardless of suspension.

Panzer_M · 02-24-2005, 06:38 AM

yea I did the "stiffner" to the M3 mounts I put in the rear.

So OE Euro M3 springs front and OE MRoadster Springs rear?
would that work for light track, mostly street and alot of spirted driving?

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