» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | 02-26-2009, 10:50 PM | #1 | Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 40 | Damn calipers keep seizing on me A few months ago I heard my RF brake pads scraping the rotors as I drove so I gave it to a shop unknown to me and they said my brake pads were out and replaced the pads and rotors. OK nice but it didn't solve the real problem. 2 weeks ago that caliper was squeezing my rotor more as I drove so that I'd see red rotors when I get home. Eek. So I took it in to a trusted mechanic and he replaced that caliper and 10" of hose going to the caliper. Well it fixed that wheel but now the LF caliper is starting to squeeze as I drive! My brakes otherwise perform properly. WTH. Could it be that my brake fluid is prehistoric? Could I have air in the system? Could my LF caliper be busted? The sad part is that I can fix all this myself but I can't due to my extremely busy schedule at work. I may just put aside one day this weekend and replace everything but pointers and guesses would be highly appreciated in advance!! Thanks. Gaston '95 318ti | | | 02-27-2009, 04:35 AM | #2 | Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: MN Posts: 12 | i'm no super mechanic, but the only time i've had a similar issue(but not on my ti), it was the brake line hoses to the caliper, they can deteriorate on the insides causing plugging. | | | 02-27-2009, 08:46 AM | #3 | Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Sunbury PA 17801 (The 570) Posts: 104 | the easiest way to check on any vehicle is to crack open the bleeder. If you crack open the bleeder and it releases the dragging, its the hose (because the capier moves freely once pressure is relieved). if you crack open the bleeder and still hangs up, your caliper is hanging up (because even with no fluid pressure applied, its not releasing) Correct me if im wrong, but in my own experience, this has held true. __________________ WTB: 17 inch Milli Miglia MM-II's with proper fitment for a ti | | | 02-27-2009, 11:03 AM | #4 | Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Devon U.K. Posts: 34 | It is a good idea to change both sides at the same time when replacing any thing with brakes or steering. If one side is seized up then the other side is probably the same. It was standard practice when i was an apprentice in the dark and distant past, this was a safety issue not just to hike up the price! | | | 02-27-2009, 03:05 PM | #5 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: state college, pa Posts: 3,431 | Quote: Originally Posted by Criswell the easiest way to check on any vehicle is to crack open the bleeder. If you crack open the bleeder and it releases the dragging, its the hose (because the capier moves freely once pressure is relieved). if you crack open the bleeder and still hangs up, your caliper is hanging up (because even with no fluid pressure applied, its not releasing) Correct me if im wrong, but in my own experience, this has held true. | This is an excellent way to troubleshoot, but remember that you'll need to bleed your brakes after doing this. __________________ I scream, you scream, we all scream for ZOMBIES. | | | 02-27-2009, 04:10 PM | #6 | Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 890 | Its very rare to see two calipers seize at the same time. Deterioration of the hoses is a possible cause, but again both sides? I'm smelling a Master Cylinder problem. Gaston, where in Ohio are you? __________________ SOLD!!! 1999 332ti //M Sport Titanium Silver M3 S52 3.2 I-6 Engine, M3 Clutch w/ ti Getrag Trans, Z3 3.15 LSD medium case diff and half shafts, OEM Hatch Spoiler, Eurosport HP Underdrive Pulleys, FDM, 17" DS1 rims, M3 Front Struts & Springs, M3 Instrument Cluster, 3-spoke //M steering wheel with tri-color stitching, SSK, CCFL Angels in Depo projectors with 5k HIDs | | | 02-28-2009, 01:19 AM | #7 | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: asdfasdf Posts: 10,002 | Quote: Originally Posted by greenmeanie It is a good idea to change both sides at the same time when replacing any thing with brakes or steering. If one side is seized up then the other side is probably the same. It was standard practice when i was an apprentice in the dark and distant past, this was a safety issue not just to hike up the price! | that actually doesn't really apply to calipers | | | 03-03-2009, 10:44 PM | #8 | Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 28 | I'm actually going through the same problem, believe it or not. At first my Front passenger side started doing it (dragging and glowing red and steaming and stinking) and now my front driver's side has begun to stick. I can also hear a loud clicking sound once I stop. It doesn't sound like the normal pings and pangs a normal car makes cooling down, almost as if something is trying to release. I'm going to check the lines tonight or tomorrow and see what I come up with. (I also brought it to a shop, they checked it and couldn't find anything wrong - but i'm guessing they only checked if caliper was releasing properly ) | | | 03-12-2009, 03:38 AM | #9 | Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 40 | UPDATE: I went to Napa and bought a brake caliper and hose. I replaced them myself and that solved the problem! I guess both hoses or both calipers decided to fail around the same time. | | | 03-12-2009, 10:24 AM | #10 | Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Devon U.K. Posts: 34 | THEN MAYBE IT APPLIES AFTER ALL !!! Im. glad you have fixed the problem, I just think it is unwise to cut corners on brakes steering & tires or any thing really. Do it once, do it right. | | | 06-09-2009, 05:33 PM | #11 | Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Mass Posts: 2 | I had the same issue this past winter with both calipers freezing up within a month from each other. I replaced the calipers only (not the hoses) and have been fine until last week. My driver's side caliper is starting to freeze up again. I checked if the hose was bad by relieving pressure from the bleeder but that did nothing. I ended up removing the caliper and cycled the piston to both extremes then reassembled. This is most likely a temporary fix. Did any of you have a relaps like me? Any ideas? | | | 06-09-2009, 07:50 PM | #12 | Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 890 | Quote: Originally Posted by tiFreak that actually doesn't really apply to calipers | Always replace brake components in pairs. __________________ SOLD!!! 1999 332ti //M Sport Titanium Silver M3 S52 3.2 I-6 Engine, M3 Clutch w/ ti Getrag Trans, Z3 3.15 LSD medium case diff and half shafts, OEM Hatch Spoiler, Eurosport HP Underdrive Pulleys, FDM, 17" DS1 rims, M3 Front Struts & Springs, M3 Instrument Cluster, 3-spoke //M steering wheel with tri-color stitching, SSK, CCFL Angels in Depo projectors with 5k HIDs | | | 06-09-2009, 08:22 PM | #13 | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: asdfasdf Posts: 10,002 | I thought it was only the wear items that get replaced in pairs I might just be confused since a lot of the customers I do work for are broke or on welfare so we always have to cut costs for them | | | 06-09-2009, 08:49 PM | #14 | NOBODY F's with the Jesus Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ventura California Posts: 7,824 | Quote: Originally Posted by RRocket130 I had the same issue this past winter with both calipers freezing up within a month from each other. I replaced the calipers only (not the hoses) and have been fine until last week. My driver's side caliper is starting to freeze up again. I checked if the hose was bad by relieving pressure from the bleeder but that did nothing. I ended up removing the caliper and cycled the piston to both extremes then reassembled. This is most likely a temporary fix. Did any of you have a relaps like me? Any ideas? | Purchase two caliper rebuild kits and rebuild your calipers. or... Buy mine, I'll sell you a pair of calipers and hoses for 50 shipped. or... Upgrade to e36 325, 328, M3 or e46 330 brakes. These are all larger and vented vs. the 318ti's crappy solid rotors. Personally, this would be my suggestion. A little more expensive than the other two options, but you might as well kill two birds with one stone IYKWIM. You could pick up a 325i or 325is setup for pretty cheap on bf.c classifieds or at the junkyard. Either way, I recommend rebuilding them prior to install. Even if you were to buy mine, I'd still recommend rebuilding them. It only cost a few bucks and takes less than 10 minutes. | | | 06-10-2009, 02:24 AM | #15 | Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Mass Posts: 2 | cooljess76, I appreciate the offer but my problem is that I just replaced both calipers with rebuilt calipers from NAPA this winter. The one side is already starting to seize up again. I'm trying to find out if anyone has had a similar issue or advice before I throw more money at it or try to argue with NAPA for a replacement. Unfortuately I was in a pinch with both time and money when I replaced them and didn't do enough research on what to replace them with. Thanks, | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |