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Old 01-25-2011, 06:35 AM   #16
Pierre
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Default According to realOEM

There seems to be 3 pumps that BMW used on the E36. (The z3s use a different pump 16 14 6 756 323. It fits most z3s regardless of engine. M44, M52, M54, S52. The S54 had yet another pump 16 14 2 229 672.)

The M44 ti uses 16 14 6 758 735
The M42, (including the ti up to 2-95) M50 and S50 uses 16 14 1 182 842
The M44 non-ti cars, M52, S52 use 16 14 6 758 736.

There seems to be a little overlap between engines and pumps but for the most part, these are differences.

The interesting thing is that the same pump that fits the M42 ti fits the sedans and coupes. All ti tanks are the same through the years which means the physical fit is the same which explains Rock Auto's interchangeability of the pumps.

The fuel pressure regulator can reduce fuel pressure but not increase it beyond the maximum pressure of the pump. If the S52 pumps goes up to 51psi and the ti pump goes up to 43.5 psi, the ti pump will not deliver pressure over 43.5 psi that the S52 may need under certain conditions.

I have learned not to doubt BMW engineers. They know by far more than I do. And if they choose a different pump for different engines, I have a difficult time accepting that it's not important. At least, I would like to hear a plausible technical explanation that would convince me that a ti pump will work just the same on the S52 motor.

The tii crowd also have quite a debate about fuel pumps. tii electric pumps are VERY EXPENSIVE. Some people are using E28 pumps with "good" results but the pressure and fuel volume are not the same. Does it work? Absolutely!!! It's less than half the price at $200. Is it as good as the original? The tii gurus seem not to think so.
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96 318ti (S52), 97 318ti, 95 318ti, 69 2002 (M20), 74 2002tii, 76 530i (3.3), 79 323i, 81 528i, 90 325i, 91 318is, 97 Z3, 2002 330i, 2002 R1150RT.
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:51 AM   #17
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Well just finished installing the new pump... no luck car still does not start. There is not even a buzz on the pump yet when I check the voltage at the switch it shows me 10.5V which I think is kind of low considering it should require 12V. Both the DME and Fuel pump relay have been changed for new ones which BMW says they are revised units. I am scratching my head without knowing what to do next.
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:32 AM   #18
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Seriously man, i have the bentley manual right in front of me. 160-10 and 160-10....
The fuel pump is capable of developing a higher pressure than that regulated by the pressure regulator. In the event the fuel pump check valve is faulty (stuck closed), make sure the fuel pressure does not rise above 6.0 bar (87psi). Damage to the fuel lines or fuel system components could result.

The m42/m44 uses 3.0+-.06 bar 43.5+-9psi and the 6 cylinder uses 43.5-51+-9 psi for the 6 cylinders, all using the same pump. My 5.7L V8 requires 60psi, which is still within the tolerance of my fuel pump and is able to be regulated properly by the fuel filter/regulator for feed, return, and single outlet to both rails. This has been done for years. Guys have run their OE pumps with who knows how many miles on them as well as pushing at least an extra hundred over my 350hp that requires only 60psi. Our pumps are able to pump more, which is what you would want so the engines management and fueling system doesnt lean out when in operation.

Maybe im just simply wrong and my fuel pump in my 325ti for the past 5 years is a lie. Maybe that same pump wont run my 5.7L just as well as the next. Maybe 260K miles is kicking that little pumps butt. *shrugs* Take it like a grain of salt, i know what our pumps can do and simple swaps wont kill them, hence guys running boost on stock pumps with 6 cyls.

OP, there is a lot of diagnosing pages in the bentley, you should take a look for yourself. If you cant jump 30 and 87 and get the pump going, you just need to check your wiring and fuse because nothing else can stand in the way. Like i said before, the pump can be ran without even having the key in the ignition when jumping the relay.
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:36 AM   #19
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Besides, its not rocket science, get the information for the particular pump, read its specs on how much it can produce, look at what your engine calls for, and install. Its not a hard concept such as writing and tuning software or basemaps for a turbo setup.
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:42 AM   #20
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I think blubimma is onto something here
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:09 PM   #21
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Update: Just jumped the relay socket and nothing no buzz on the pump. Heres an interesting observation, with the relay jumped there is no voltage to the pump socket unless you crank the car it receives 10.5V. There is also spark to the spark plugs. Could the alarm be doing this?
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:14 PM   #22
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Are you sure you're jumping the correct socket? Unless you have some aftermarket alarm, you should be applying direct power to the pump by jumping the relay. You should have the dme, fuel pump, and o2 sensor relay at the relay section. Post the year of the car, the colors of the wires to the relay you're jumping, and check fuse 18.
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:51 PM   #23
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Thank god some one made this thread.. I'm gonna be reading threw this today trying to figure out also what happend to the car I'm working on..
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:58 PM   #24
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So removed the "new" used pump and jumped it directly from the battery and no spin... I believe the next good move would be to purchase a new pump with no use. The alarm I have is the bmw alarm that came with the car but I already ruled that out by just unplugging it and in that scenario it is bypassed. Fuse 18 is good I checked it and both DME and Fuel pump relays have been swapped. Let me confirm on the color of the wire I am jumping. My car only has two relay's its missing the first one so it only has two next to eachother. I suspect the one for the FP is the one in the middle and the DME is the one next to it on the right.
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:10 PM   #25
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K just verified the wires I am jumping under the relay socket. It is a red and red/white wire that I am jumping. Are these the correct wires?
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:36 PM   #26
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You're leaving out bits and pieces dude, I need the year and all the wires per relay socket
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:14 PM   #27
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These are the relays with their respective wiring.



Last edited by juan.manjarres; 08-11-2012 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:31 PM   #28
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Second picture, the one on the right with the red/white and green wires is the fuel pump
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:46 PM   #29
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Bingo! Just jumped the red on the left and the violet green wire and got 12.46V at the pump socket. On my way to buy a pump, will keep you guys updated.
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:59 AM   #30
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Update: Car started went to a local shop here that deals with original manufacturers for BMW, Merc's and Audi's and bought the VDO pump which ideally is the same part number from the realoem.com site for the ti. Car started right up when I plugged everything up, the pump I had purchased from a friend was dead. As Bluebimma said all the fuel pumps are interchangeable. The only difference being is at the connectors where they differ in the shape depending on model. But you could ideally buy any pump from any of the e36 models and just change the guts or the inline pump and it'll work. It is also proven that the cars that have three relays together you would jump the second or the relay in the middle. Bluebimma has instructed me by the pictures above that I uploaded where some cars only bring two relays, the pump fuel relay would be the last relay or the second one. You jump the green/violet wire and the red wire on the left of the green/violet wire on the second relay or right one in the picture above. When this is done without the key in the ignition you should see 12V or above at the fuel pump socket in the fuel pump compartment. If anyone has any other questions feel free to ask. Thank you all for the help and each and everyone of you that contributed to get me motoring again.
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