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Old 06-12-2015, 07:18 AM   #1
benz-tech
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Default M44 into an E30

I have an M44 ready to go in to my E30. I am at least considering using all the M44 harness, ecu and ews and key from the donor car. I need a pin out of the connectors and maybe some advice from anyone that's deslt with obd2 swap info. I question whether my e30 tach will work, whether the check eng light will ever go out, whether it will run in closed loop and so on. I like the idea of a maf sensor over the afm and knock sensors esp since im up around 11.5 comp. I figure if I can look at the wiring schematic and what the pins are at the 3 connectors on the engine harness, I can figure out if its worth the effort.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-16-2015, 04:11 PM   #2
M-technik-3
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I would not do this swap considering you live in California and this car would need to be BAR'd

I see it quickly becoming a money/time pit. Is the car a M42 318i/is already?
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Old 06-16-2015, 09:22 PM   #3
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Car is already M42. I decided on just keeping the M42 electronics for now to avoid the complication. No reason to bar, it looks bone stock and the cam isn't enough to cause an issue.
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Old 06-28-2015, 01:24 AM   #4
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Hi, I am the guy that sold you that M44 engine/ECU/EWS/key-chip after I did the M52 swap into my 318ti and got it BAR'd last year. I can email you the MS Excel spreadsheet with the pinouts for my '97 328i engine/auto trans into my manual '96 318ti (manual trans) chassis if that helps. I had to reprogram the ECU from auto to manual using DIS to finally get rid of the MILs. I haven't done it myself, but it seems possible to make the M44 to E30 swap and make it CA legal. Also, I still have the dash that went with that engine/ECU if you want it. I'll PM you in a few minutes...
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Sleeper Calypsorot 1996 318ti tintop. CA-legal swapped S52 from '98 M3, and ZF transmission with lightened flywheel/clutch. Magnaflow 2-into-1 muffler. Six-cylinder Eibach springs in front and 318ti H&R Sport springs in rear. Koni Sport adjustable dampers all around. Racing Dynamics 28mm & 19mm swaybars. M3 front hubs/brakes, E34 rear calipers, braided SS brake lines, Hawk HP-S pads. DS-II wheels. Polyflex purple bushings throughout, and factory lower x-brace. Fan delete mod. Engine mount reinforcements welded-in. 3.25 LSD rear diff from E28 & E30 axles.
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:16 AM   #5
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Default OBDII Data connector

Does anyone know which pin on the DME goes to the OBDII data connector? The diagram shows pin 87 or 88 going to a 'data' connector but I'm not sure if this is the standard OBDII or the one under the hood. I appreciate the help.
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:27 AM   #6
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The swap was a sucess. Car started, ran, idled, reved just like it should. It was quite the challenge to get a mixture of e30 and obd2 m44 parts to work together but it all seems to work. It should be driveable by the end of the week

Huge thanks to Strawman, your pinout of the x20 made it possible. Which reminds me, I owe you a few more bucks for thst cluster, which, as it turns out, I won't be needing. But the Engine, DME, EWS and chip are all synced up and running beautifully. I'll admit, I had my doubts and when my power wire to the EWS popped off, causing it not to start, I almost panicked but it was a easy fix. The tach, and coolant temp even work.

Last edited by benz-tech; 08-19-2015 at 06:58 AM.
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Old 09-21-2015, 06:38 AM   #7
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Update: after resolving an issue with a 5,500rpm fuel cut, the car just keeps getting better. I'm installing a Dakota digital speedo corrector for the second 48t speed input (e30 is 9t only) and a rear o2 bung. After that I should have no fault codes and will actually hook up the check eng light. COP kit installed. I Still a few bugs though, My idle is not great. The idle control is working as can bee seen by the bump when the car is moving. It acts like it just can't move enough air to feed the cams. Turning the ac on will kill it . It will also need a tune since the top end is lean. The lifters are noisy, and it could be that reground cam or the valves that were topped when they ground the faces. Either way, I have a full s52 33mm bucket and beehive spring upgrade in the mix and will inspect everything when apart. Hopefully just the lifters. Swaps are definitely complicated, but the results are well worth it.
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:50 AM   #8
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Another update. Finally made some headway with how the engine runs. Since no one locally can flash tune 5.2 I decided to install an SAFCII piggyback fuel controller. I was skeptical since it's not approved for an hfm type maf sensor. The short version is, it works and it works quite well. I had to add roughly 10% more fuel above 3,500 rpm. Now, the engine pulls hard up to redline with the last bit above 5,500 being especially strong. The timing map was not affected. I plan on doing an installation write up to help anyone thinking of using one. Its not nearly as much as a bandaid fix as people say. The last thing on the agenda is fixing a lifter issue and upgrading to 33mm s52 buckets and springs. And installing the 2mm HG to drop my cr down to 11:1 even. 11.5 was a bit ambitious.. But, no longer having the fear of melting a piston makes it a lotmore fun to drive
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:27 AM   #9
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Great to hear you got it going! No worries about further reimbursement for anything I sent to you; I'm just glad the engine and related parts have gone to someone who could use 'em.

I'm pulling an M52 (bad head gasket) out of my daughter's '97 328i and swap in the M52 that is currently in my 318ti; my 318ti is getting an S52. I plan to grab some of the sensors and then dump the M52 leftovers. Let me know if you need anything from it...
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Sleeper Calypsorot 1996 318ti tintop. CA-legal swapped S52 from '98 M3, and ZF transmission with lightened flywheel/clutch. Magnaflow 2-into-1 muffler. Six-cylinder Eibach springs in front and 318ti H&R Sport springs in rear. Koni Sport adjustable dampers all around. Racing Dynamics 28mm & 19mm swaybars. M3 front hubs/brakes, E34 rear calipers, braided SS brake lines, Hawk HP-S pads. DS-II wheels. Polyflex purple bushings throughout, and factory lower x-brace. Fan delete mod. Engine mount reinforcements welded-in. 3.25 LSD rear diff from E28 & E30 axles.
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Old 02-03-2019, 07:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benz-tech View Post
The swap was a sucess. Car started, ran, idled, reved just like it should. It was quite the challenge to get a mixture of e30 and obd2 m44 parts to work together but it all seems to work. It should be driveable by the end of the week

Huge thanks to Strawman, your pinout of the x20 made it possible. Which reminds me, I owe you a few more bucks for thst cluster, which, as it turns out, I won't be needing. But the Engine, DME, EWS and chip are all synced up and running beautifully. I'll admit, I had my doubts and when my power wire to the EWS popped off, causing it not to start, I almost panicked but it was a easy fix. The tach, and coolant temp even work.
I know this is an old thread, and my apologies for reviving a 4 yr old thread but since I'm new here, I can't PM you. I'm actually looking at doing the same thing. I have a 96 318ti with a Downing atlanta supercharger, and I'm wanting to put it in my 91 e30 318is. I want to keep the OBD2. Any tips/suggestions?
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Old 02-06-2019, 06:25 AM   #11
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I have a pretty complete build thread on m42club and buried somewhere on r3v too. Same username. I would also like to add that if you can use the g250 gearbox, use it. The ratios are much better. You’ll need a 3.25 out back if you do it. I imagine it would be amazing with a DASC. I had other issues to solve since I’m running an M42 head that you won’t run into. If for absolutely nothing else, the maf sensor fuel injection is much more responsive. But power adders always help. Good luck with the build. I think it’s worthwile. You should be satisfied with the added power of the DASC. Otherwise a straight m44 swap would be a lot of work for not much gain.
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