CCV solution for boosted motors

[03whitegsr]

Will it hold 4-5" to redline? If so, you are already doing better then I thought and what most have reported. I might have to reconsider this in the future as I'd like to do a low mount turbo setup if I stick to the m42 in my car.

Do you have anyway to do some PWM control? A junkyard PWM fan controller and a simple MAP or TPS vs. RPM map could get the job done. Drop the pulsewidth for cruising around to maintiain a couple "Hg under low loads then drive it 100% under heavy loads. It should help keep the heat down considerably.

If you can keep oil and fuel vapor out of the pump, there is some hope to making this work long term. I agree too, I'm not a fan of the scavenge pumps as I've had friends have them fail. Mixed flow of vapor and liquid can wreck havoc on the pumps. There are some OEM options though that should be bullet-proof if installed correctly.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Redline is 8K and I have not come close to that. I'm running a new stage 5 clutch that needs another 300 miles to bed it correctly. I can hook the vac gauge to my LM-2 and get actual reading mapped with all other systems. I already have a snow injection system for meth and can control the vac pump with it at any RPM/MAF or TB position at any percent. I just need to get 1,000 miles on this d\before I think it is a good CCV system.

Thanks, John Smith

Originally Posted by 03whitegsr

Will it hold 4-5" to redline? If so, you are already doing better then I thought and what most have reported. I might have to reconsider this in the future as I'd like to do a low mount turbo setup if I stick to the m42 in my car.

Do you have anyway to do some PWM control? A junkyard PWM fan controller and a simple MAP or TPS vs. RPM map could get the job done. Drop the pulsewidth for cruising around to maintiain a couple "Hg under low loads then drive it 100% under heavy loads. It should help keep the heat down considerably.

If you can keep oil and fuel vapor out of the pump, there is some hope to making this work long term. I agree too, I'm not a fan of the scavenge pumps as I've had friends have them fail. Mixed flow of vapor and liquid can wreck havoc on the pumps. There are some OEM options though that should be bullet-proof if installed correctly.

[pdxmotorhead]

At the power levels your running and hte money your spending,, why not just dry sump the beast and get it over with.

I've switched motors from wet to dry with no other changes and dynoed 25HP more.
and the dry sump pump solves the vacume problem...

Speedmart.

Dave

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

At the power levels your running and hte money your spending,, why not just dry sump the beast and get it over with.

I've switched motors from wet to dry with no other changes and dynoed 25HP more.
and the dry sump pump solves the vacume problem...

Speedmart.

Dave

Need a new thread on this. Also I don't know much about dry sump. Is that ok for a daily driver? Also I have crank scrapers and windage tray. I've got about 30K miles on this motor which is real good considering how I drive it. Isn't dry sump just another thing that can go wrong/break.

Please educate me on this and we can start a new thread if needed.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by blowin 4

im lost what's obd 1 or 2 have to do with it ? Thats just a engine management system right every car pull vacuum at ideal.if your getting oil in your turbo u need a oil reducer or you have a bad oil return line .baybe even turbo seals going bad .lots of honda guys run up to 4 ports on there valve covers . maybe i dont know what im talking about bout correct me im here to learn !!! AS for to much blow by my opinion is that when MM designed our motors i dont think they took in much consideration that crazy ppl like us would boost that motor to 20 - 30 psi it was more designed to handle lower boost and last a life time dont get me wrong they build a bad ass motor but if i could go back i would have my motor build by some company like vac or hp freaks only cuz they have alot of experience with building turbo motors .. once again know talking down on mm just giving you my opinion if i could go back in time and change it . hope you solve your problem im going for a spin ttyl.

Danny yes I need a oil restrictor but don't know what size to install. Any suggections???

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

First problem with my CCV system. Car started to smoke real bad in a 50 mile cruise. I knew right away what happened, the 7.5amp fuse blew to the vacuum pump. I installed a 15amp fuse and it is running again perfect. I amp clamed it and the pump draw 7.1amps at 12 volts so that 7.5amp fuse was not close to enough. I put about 130 miles on the car today with no issues at all with the new CCV system. We shall see what will happen over the next 1K miles...Fingers crossed.

Just and update, John Smith

[angus]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

Need a new thread on this. Also I don't know much about dry sump. Is that ok for a daily driver? Also I have crank scrapers and windage tray. I've got about 30K miles on this motor which is real good considering how I drive it. Isn't dry sump just another thing that can go wrong/break.

Please educate me on this and we can start a new thread if needed.

Just wanted to add my 2 cents on the dry sump, I suppose if it were "rigged" up cheaply, it could cause trouble - but in general the dry sump should never cause any issues of it's own, many high end performance cars are dry sump.

My F355 has a dry sump and for all the car's problems, the dry sump is never one of them...

[318RS]

Couldn't you just plume the CCV straight to the exhaust?

[angus]

Originally Posted by 318RS

Couldn't you just plume the CCV straight to the exhaust?

Yes, with the proper seperator it could work, another answer is to use the intake, very popular on 2JZ motors.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Well 1,000+ miles on it and so far no issues or any oil burning or leaking. I removed the carbon filter about 700 miles ago and have better scavenging and nothing making it to the pump past my catch can

[03whitegsr]

Any update on crank pressure on "high boost" and at redline?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by 03whitegsr

Any update on crank pressure on "high boost" and at redline?

Nope first hard run I made and the wastegate blew off right a 24.3psi. I had below 2hg vacuum at 5,000rpm during this run. Thought I blew the motor with the immediate loss in power and parts scattering under the car. Lucky the wastegate fire ring and clamp boucing under the car down the road was all that was wrong. Drove the car home and burned up my spark plug wires from the WG dump heat. Waiting for new fire ring and v-clamp so I can go for try number 2. I think I will have no vacuum at 8,000rpm with this setup but I'm ok with that since I run 15psi 99.9% of the time and only will run high boost on the track with 110 octane in the car maybe 1-2 times a year. This is my daily driver and I'm confident it will be a destroyed motor if I run 25+psi daily. I already have driveline issues and parts are starting to break each time I go high boost and hook up in late 3rd gear

Clutch didn't slip at all so I think this stage 5 will hold the torque

[318RS]

[QUOTE= I already have driveline issues and parts are starting to break each time I go high boost and hook up in late 3rd gear

Clutch didn't slip at all so I think this stage 5 will hold the torque[/QUOTE]

What kind of driveline issues are you having?

[Jean H.318TI]

this is my solution to the disa valve and pvc system on the car




welded the ports going to the manifold




u can see on this pic the ports going to the pcv

now even after i deleted the butterfly on the disa valve still had problems with it

so the best solution to all the problems was this




the port on the new cover plate is for the future ccv system once we find a system that works, for now its just blocked off

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by 318RS

What kind of driveline issues are you having?

Having none today/ So far I've damaged the following. Getrag 250 trans (ZF replaced, drive-shaft rear universal (replaced 328i shaft), Guibo (replaced M3), snapped 1 half shaft, Driver rear axle bearings, broken transmission cross-member (Complete rebuild welding), 2 sets of trans mounts (Run the thick cali mount), lots of frame work tied to cage but still have passenger door hard to open issues, cars back-half is solid. 3 sets of clutch now on a stage 5 500ftlb torque rated

Next item will be the half shaft bolts connection to the LSD case will shear with slicks, I'm fairly confident on this one.

Once those bolts break I don't think I will have any other issues