Cruise Control

[cooljess76]

I checked mine shortly after talking to HuGo and fortunately I was mistaken. Mine functions properly.

Originally Posted by L84THSKY

I have only one more wire to retrofit cruise control. The odd thing is, there is no termination in the fuse box for CC. Must get it's power from one of the taps. How can I be sure the kit is working correctly, do I have to just drive it and find out?

Since I am installing it for the first time, does it need programming from the dealer? The computer is used, so it must have been programmed for the previous car.

I don't think it needs to be reprogramed. As for testing it out for the first time after installation, well that's sorta , just make sure you're on a long open stretch of road and be ready to put the car in neutral and turn the key to off. But dont forget that the steering wheel locks up and be ready to turn the key back to position two Good luck Bud, be careful.

[L84THSKY]

Why would I need to turn the car off? Putting it in neutral will stop the car from moving. Is that the only way to be sure it's disengaged, is to shut the car off, and restart it?

Originally Posted by cooljess76

I checked mine shortly after talking to HuGo and fortunately I was mistaken. Mine functions properly.

I don't think it needs to be reprogramed. As for testing it out for the first time after installation, well that's sorta , just make sure you're on a long open stretch of road and be ready to put the car in neutral and turn the key to off. But dont forget that the steering wheel locks up and be ready to turn the key back to position two Good luck Bud, be careful.

[cooljess76]

Just incase it won't cancel. If for some reason, the lever won't cancel and the brake or clutch doesn't cancel. I just realized that if it doesn't cancel when you tap the clutch, the RPM's will jump way up there. So maybe neutral is a bad idea.

[John Firestone]

Originally Posted by L84THSKY

I have only one more wire to retrofit cruise control. The odd thing is, there is no termination in the fuse box for CC. Must get it's power from one of the taps. How can I be sure the kit is working correctly, do I have to just drive it and find out?

The ETM shows the cruise control takes power off F46 via junction X1182. If the kit replicates the factory wiring, you must have added a comb terminal to a junction of VI/GE (violet/yellow) wires in the terminal block on the left wall above the driver's footwell area.

Since I am installing it for the first time, does it need programming from the dealer?

It may need to be to match the engine and/or transmission, but there's probably something about that in the instructions. I would get it dealer coded, just to be safe, as it will be controlling the engine.

[L84THSKY]

Yes, I did connect two violet/yellow wires in the junction beside my footwell. The one wire than concerned me was a thin wire that appeared dark blue, with a red stripe(X181). I searched all the wires, and there was a comb connector with medium blue and red. It's still blue and red, but the blues are not the same shade. If I got that right, I just need to find the brown/orange wire behind the glove box.

My goal was to hook this up, try it out, then do the OBC retrofit next. I've still not gotten the OEM fog light retrofit to work, so I'm trying not to get too far ahead of myself. I did notice that when I had the car on and the fog lights engaged, I pulled the fuse, and saw no voltage on either side of the fuse connector. I guess the kit isn't getting power. Back inside the fuse box to solve that one.

One last thing. After putting in the new guage face, I just noticed something on the way to work. My odometer is not lighting up. The oil/maintenance LED bars work, but the odometer and trip set are not lighting up. Is there a light bulb for this, or maybe the rear connectors are not seated correctly. All my idiot indicators work, and no CEL is on, what did I do?

Originally Posted by John Firestone

The ETM shows the cruise control takes power off F46 via junction X1182. If the kit replicates the factory wiring, you must have added a comb terminal to a junction of VI/GE (violet/yellow) wires in the terminal block on the left wall above the driver's footwell area.

It may need to be to match the engine and/or transmission, but there's probably something about that in the instructions. I would get it dealer coded, just to be safe, as it will be controlling the engine.

[DustenT]

Originally Posted by L84THSKY

and no CEL is on, what did I do?

Your CEL is tied to emissions equipment and sensors. It doesn't monitor anything else.

Sounds like a bulb came disconnected, or burned out. Pull it out and check your connections again.

[L84THSKY]

Would that be one of the bulbs on the bottom row, twist lock type? I would prefer not to re-open the gauge assembly.

Originally Posted by DustenT

Sounds like a bulb came disconnected, or burned out. Pull it out and check your connections again.

[John Firestone]

Originally Posted by L84THSKY

The one wire than concerned me was a thin wire that appeared dark blue, with a red stripe(X181). I searched all the wires, and there was a comb connector with medium blue and red. It's still blue and red, but the blues are not the same shade. If I got that right, I just need to find the brown/orange wire behind the glove box.

I am reasonably sure there is only "blue" in our cars, which can vary in shade depending on who colored the PVC resin and when. I am more concerned with other base colors tinting the stripe, for example, brown/red wires, some of which you could mistake for brown/orange if you are unlucky.

[ATF]

Originally Posted by L84THSKY

Would that be one of the bulbs on the bottom row, twist lock type? I would prefer not to re-open the gauge assembly.

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...ter+bulb+video

It sounds easy enough

[L84THSKY]

Did it the old fashion way, took off the steering wheel.

It turned out the bulb that illuminates the odometer was bad. That bulb, and the one for the service indicator are not the same as the rest, the base is white, probably higher rated. Lucky for me, I had one of those bulbs laying around, and swapped it out, all good now.

Check this out, I noticed this the other day. The speedo gauge all lights, EXCEPT the "100" number. I adjusted the dimmer, and still the "100" will not illuminate, is that weird, or normal. All the hash markes above it are illuminated, but not the number "100"

Originally Posted by ATF

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...ter+bulb+video

It sounds easy enough

[L84THSKY]

I think I have everything I need to finish up, and plan on having the dealer do whatever they need to on Saturday. Then I was thinking, since the harness does not terminate at the fuse box, or the diagnostic ports, why would it need programming? In other words, how is the diagnostic port going to get a signal to the C.C. controller, if they have no connection?

Originally Posted by John Firestone

It may need to be to match the engine and/or transmission, but there's probably something about that in the instructions. I would get it dealer coded, just to be safe, as it will be controlling the engine.

[L84THSKY]

Brought the car to the dealership today, they didn't have time to code the Cruise Control. I have an appointment for next Saturday. Since I gotta pay the $tealer for the coding, I might as well install my OBC retrofit tomorrow too. That way I can have both coded for the same cost.

Let's hope I can get OBC installed in one day. I'm starting to get the hang of installing wiring harnesses, so maybe I can do it in one day.

[L84THSKY]

The mechanic at the BMW dealership got the Cruise Control coded. He said his GSII computer didn't recognize my "KOM Instrument Cluster". He asked if I had messed with it. I said yes, to put in the gauge face and OBC wiring.

I did say I wasn't 100% sure about all the wiring, and explained about the dark blue/red wire, and how I couldn't find an exact match. He said the KOM instrument cluster should be recognized regardless of if I installed C.C. or not.

If I got communications with the cluster, the Cruise Control would start working. So I need to just check the connections of the cluster for loose connections. My wiring may still be good.



All I know is the OBC works, and all of the gauge indicators including Tach, speedo and odometer work fine.

There is nothing to indicate the guage cluster is broken, only that he can't get a download from it. Here is what the printouts say, I have separate sheets, not sure of the order of pages:

Sheet
Retrofit roadspeed govenor II. Follow Instructions!
The GRII (if fitted) is recoded and the Central Encoding Key in the INSTRUMENT CLUSTER is modified automatically.

Sheet
Coding code cannot be read out of the KOMBI!

Sheet
Is the instrument cluster (KOMBI) equipped with a fuel-consumption indicator or an oil-temperature gauge?

Sheet
GRII does not respond! Is the ignition ON?
Is the battery charged sufficiently?
Is the control unit OK?

Sheet
Important! After successful completion of retrofitting, the control unit must additionally be added in the diagnosis under "Service functions, body, Electronic immobilizer, Enter retrofit.

Sheet
UHR/BC
Start automatic coding
Coding code has been changed
New central label required

Coding code:
GM 1C7300004
SA 00004020010018D0Z
VN 068DFFED36W

Some of these sheets may have to do with the OBC. Such as the last sheet that claims to have changed the coding.

I guess I can search the E36 forums for answers, they use the same system.

Originally Posted by John Firestone

The ETM shows the cruise control takes power off F46 via junction X1182. If the kit replicates the factory wiring, you must have added a comb terminal to a junction of VI/GE (violet/yellow) wires in the terminal block on the left wall above the driver's footwell area.

It may need to be to match the engine and/or transmission, but there's probably something about that in the instructions. I would get it dealer coded, just to be safe, as it will be controlling the engine.

[John Firestone]

That's a little confusing. The coding key is stored in the instrument cluster so your dealer must have been able to access the cluster if they were able to code the OBC and then update the central code. Did you do anything to the car between the time you coded the OBC and tried to code the cruise control?

I believe the workshop computer won't be able to code the cruise control until it finds the cluster: the computer probably still needs to transfer the central code in the cluster to the cruise control module and possibly write back an updated code to the cluster (indicating the car now has a cruise control, if that matters).