Reminder for those running brass caliper bushings...

[BimmerBum]

I just refreshed the brakes on my E46 wagon. New (rebuilt) rear calipers, new pads, and a good bleed. When I transferred the brass caliper bushings from the old calipers to the new ones they were very dry. Admittedly these have been on my car for 5 years or so but I greased them very well when I installed them. The brass caliper bushings do not have a dust shield to keep the grease in.

When I got everything buttoned up and the pads bed in I was shocked at the difference.

Lesson: GREASE YOUR BRASS CALIPER BUSHINGS YEARLY AND EVERY TIME YOU SWAP PADS.

Brass caliper bushings are probably the best brake upgrade for your stock brake set up but they do require more care to maintain proper function.

If anyone is interested I do carry brass caliper bushings.

[1996 328ti]

Although I would not recommend them for the street.
One of mine binded due to over tightening.
I know that was my fault.
But since there is no covering so the grease is going to attract dirt and grime.

So if someone is going to use them there is maintenance involved.

[spidertri]

I had always read these weren't worth it unless you had a full out track/autox car. Different people had said grease once a year where others greased them before each event. Seemed like there wasn't a consensus and a lot of guys actually went back to stock rubber after using the brass for a while.

[BimmerBum]

Steven, over tightening of what?

As far as I am concerned they are well worth the trouble... They are inexpensive too. Without these bushings a lot of your initial braking is lost on the movement between the caliper and the carrier. They make a much larger difference in the pedal than stainless lines.

spidertri, you should grab a used set from one of those guys that could not live with them and see what you think. Since you track the car I think you might find that you cannot live without them.

That said, they will not find their way onto my wife's X5 but all of my cars are running (or will be running) them.

[spidertri]

Yeah, I'd like to try them out now. I have the wheels off enough that I can keep an eye on the grease and lube them if needed. I have noticed pad taper and the pedal feel could definitely be improved.

[1996 328ti]

Originally Posted by BimmerBum

Steven, over tightening of what?

I tightened the guide pin too much and the brass fitting expanded. Don't ask how but that is what happened.

I run my pads down to the packing plates and haven't had an issue of uneven pad wear nor have I seen the backing plates bend.

It's just one of those things that look cool.
Sort of like cross drilled cryogenic rotors.

I think people feel a different because they are flushing brake fluid, replacing pads and rotors at the same time.

I like to replace the rubber bushings every few years.

[BimmerBum]

Originally Posted by 1996 328ti

I tightened the guide pin too much and the brass fitting expanded. Don't ask how but that is what happened.

I run my pads down to the packing plates and haven't had an issue of uneven pad wear nor have I seen the backing plates bend.

It's just one of those things that look cool.
Sort of like cross drilled cryogenic rotors.

I think people feel a different because they are flushing brake fluid, replacing pads and rotors at the same time.

I like to replace the rubber bushings every few years.

You must have installed the pins and bushings together and started to strip the allen key in the pin.

I am not fond of drilled and slotted rotors but I'm not giving up my brass bushings! I'm just going to take better care of them.

I will send you the rubber bushings from my replacement calipers, they have zero miles on them.

[spidertri]

My car is mostly daily driver and some (1-2 a month) autox car. New stock lines, new caliper bushings, Ate super blue, and PFC Zs (all done earlier this year) and there is obvious pad taper on these pads and the pads I had previously.

I have bled and bled and bled the brakes, not much change. About an inch of play before the brakes really grab. No issues stopping from that point, it is just annoying that there is that slop.

Only thing left is to rebuild the calipers and try brass bushings, I don't really feel like going to a BBK. I think I am going to make a set of pad spacers I can use to keep the piston retracted and hopefully reduce the pedal travel.

[1996 328ti]

Originally Posted by spidertri

I have bled and bled and bled the brakes, not much change. About an inch of play before the brakes really grab. No issues stopping from that point, it is just annoying that there is that slop.

I went through the same thing last year when my hard lines were replaced.
I bled and bled. Vacuum. Husband/wife method. Vacuum again. Husband/wife.
Brakes felt good for one moderate stop then too much travel for me.

I ended up replacing my pads. In my case, problem solved.
There are so many variables when it comes to brakes.

Add: Absolutely no reason for a BBK.

[mohaughn]

Add: Absolutely no reason for a BBK.

Cheaper brake pads is about it. It is crazy how expensive BMW caliper specific tracks pads are. The pads for my old wilwood kit were about 40% cheaper than the BMW caliper pads.

You shouldn't have an inch of play in the pedal. It could be something in the brake booster or master cylinder as well. I went from a BBK back to stock my99+ Ti vented rotors and saw no change in vehicle performance. I did have to change the pad compound I was using as pad temperatures went up due to a smaller rotor and less pad material(smaller heatsink), but performance was nearly identical in terms of lap times and vehicle control.

Ed, I may have to get a set of brass calipers from you at some point to see if I like them. Dedicated car with the brakes gone over before every event, so if you like the change that much might be worth checking out.

[1996 328ti]

Originally Posted by mohaughn

Cheaper brake pads is about it. It is crazy how expensive BMW caliper specific tracks pads are.

I cringe everytime I buy a set of Carbotech XP10/XP8.

[BimmerBum]

Originally Posted by mohaughn

Ed, I may have to get a set of brass calipers from you at some point to see if I like them. Dedicated car with the brakes gone over before every event, so if you like the change that much might be worth checking out.

Just let me know. I try to always have them on hand.

[spidertri]

Originally Posted by mohaughn

You shouldn't have an inch of play in the pedal. It could be something in the brake booster or master cylinder as well. I went from a BBK back to stock my99+ Ti vented rotors and saw no change in vehicle performance. I did have to change the pad compound I was using as pad temperatures went up due to a smaller rotor and less pad material(smaller heatsink), but performance was nearly identical in terms of lap times and vehicle control.

I'm probably exaggerating a little bit when I say an inch. It is also more noticeable when everything is cold. If the pads and tires are warm it stops fine.

Could just be pad knockback when driving on the street or the sloppy tolerances in the booster.

[spidertri]

Just wanted to update. I ordered a set of brass caliper bushings from BimmerBum awhile back. Great price and fast shipping.

I installed them last weekend along with rebuilding all four calipers and some Ate type 200 (reused my pfc-z pads and stock solid rotors which still have a lot of life). The brakes have never felt better. The feedback and feel is fantastic and I can't wait to push these harder at autox and track days.

[1996 328ti]

Not knocking the solid guides, but rebuilding and fresh fluid make a world of difference.
The feel would be even better with new pads and rotors.