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Air Filters/Intakes Air filters and cold air intake systems.

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Old 09-10-2011, 02:37 AM   #16
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Here's the heat shield/box I mentioned. Go with cardboard first
http://www.e36-tech.com/forum/diy-cu...3c24ebb3e6377c
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Old 09-10-2011, 03:33 AM   #17
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Stock airbox w/paper filter works best, trust me.
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Old 09-10-2011, 03:43 AM   #18
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Stock airbox w/paper filter works best, trust me.
Dyno sheet??
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Old 09-10-2011, 05:14 AM   #19
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Dyno sheet??
It's posted on this forum somewhere in one of the dozens of stupid CAI threads. I don't feel like looking for it. This topic has been beaten to death. If you guys would actually search before starting new threads, you'd see what I'm talking about

http://www.318ti.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1502380
http://www.318ti.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1502382
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Old 09-10-2011, 02:33 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by cooljess76 View Post
It's posted on this forum somewhere in one of the dozens of stupid CAI threads. I don't feel like looking for it. This topic has been beaten to death. If you guys would actually search before starting new threads, you'd see what I'm talking about

http://www.318ti.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1502380
http://www.318ti.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1502382
both those links come up as no matches; try different terms

I dunno, a decent CAI and sports exhaust do change the driving charactaristics of the car somewhat even if the overall end HP remains the same, peak torque happens slightly further down the rpm scale and even changing only the exhaust seems to improve the throttle response somewhat. EndTuning who are doing the ECU chips for the Compact Cup in the UK expect that with their remap alone gains of around 15hp can be made, rising to 20-25hp with the a decent CAI (i.e. one with an air feed and a sealed cone such as the Viper) and exhaust, although on older engines these gains will go more towards replacing the original HP the car has lost over time rather than making the car that much faster.

However he does agree that the CAI on its own wont do an awful lot. As far as seeing a car with a CAI on it when its up for sale - I would probably take it off and replace it with the factory airbox anyway unless I was selling to someone from a forum or at a meet who is familiar with the car and the care/maintainance I put into it.
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Old 09-10-2011, 05:03 PM   #21
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I believe a member of E30tech (or Revlimited) developed that as an alternative to all the overpriced CAIs w/ heatshield out there.

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72095

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Originally Posted by slow_ti View Post
This one looks promising actually.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E...item1c1ec5996a


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Old 09-10-2011, 08:44 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by vsonix View Post
both those links come up as no matches; try different terms

I dunno, a decent CAI and sports exhaust do change the driving charactaristics of the car somewhat even if the overall end HP remains the same, peak torque happens slightly further down the rpm scale and even changing only the exhaust seems to improve the throttle response somewhat. EndTuning who are doing the ECU chips for the Compact Cup in the UK expect that with their remap alone gains of around 15hp can be made, rising to 20-25hp with the a decent CAI (i.e. one with an air feed and a sealed cone such as the Viper) and exhaust, although on older engines these gains will go more towards replacing the original HP the car has lost over time rather than making the car that much faster.

However he does agree that the CAI on its own wont do an awful lot. As far as seeing a car with a CAI on it when its up for sale - I would probably take it off and replace it with the factory airbox anyway unless I was selling to someone from a forum or at a meet who is familiar with the car and the care/maintainance I put into it.
I just went into "advanced search" and did a keyword search for "CAI" in "titles only". Then I did it again with "intake" in "titles only". There were literally pages of threads asking the exact same questions as the OP. Like I said, this topic has been beaten into the ground and the results are always the same. If you or anyone feels like an intake is going to make any noticeable difference or turn your car into a racecar, by all means go for it. I hear they sell cheap, high quality electric superchargers on ebay. You should try one of those too while you're at it. Personally, I think it's pointless on these engines and somewhat laughable.

It's a placebo effect. You install a so called "performance" part on your car. It makes a slightly different sound than you're used to. You drive harder to hear that sound. You THINK your car is faster. You convince yourself that it was worth it by telling the world that it made a HUGE difference when in reality it made little if any difference at all except for increasing the risk of hydrolock and ghettofying your car. Maybe if you close your eyes and wish really hard, you may actually feel a difference

PettitWC(chris), HuGo and Marv17 are three good friends of mine who hydrolocked their M44's with CAI's. HuGo and Marv drove through puddles in SoCal, Chris drove through a flood. There's been a few others on this forum over the years and one can only imagine how many non members it's happened to. In the end, was it worth destroying your engine for a "cool looking" part or a stupid sucking noise?

In my experience, horsepower numbers don't "add up" like you think they do. Just because an intake manufacturer CLAIMS that their product will give you a xxHP increase, doesn't mean it's true. Notice how they all say "up to" and not "at least". Furthermore, if you take a catback system that claims to give you 10hp, an intake that claims to give you 10hp, a header that claims to give you 10hp and a chip that claims to give you 15hp, DOESN'T MEAN you're gonna see a 45hp increase. You're certainly not going to have a 185hp ti, because performance mods don't just "add up" to make a certain hp number. Parts work together, overlap and cancel eachother out. With all those things listed, you may see a 10hp OVERALL increase, but I'm willing to bet that whatever you gain in high end HP, you'll probably lose in low end torque. Do you really think you can "feel" the difference between 140hp and 150hp? I seriously doubt it.

I'm just saying that NA M42's and M44's are well balanced for performance/fuel economy/reliability from the factory. The intakes and exhaust are already really nicely designed. The only way to get significant gains from them is to go forced induction or increase displacement. Metric Mechanic has proven this with their forced induction inspired engines and their bored and stroked 2.1L rally engines both of which will run between 8-10k USD.

You could spend more than the car is worth on bolt-ons and you'll never see 150hp. But hey, everybody has a dream right

Edit; As for your exhaust claims, I'll note that this forum had a Stromung groupbuy a few years back. If I remember correctly, most if not everyone who purchased a 2.25 inch stromung noticed a significant loss in low end torque. A couple people with supercharged ti's purchased the 2.5 inch catback and experienced even greater losses. Fact is, the only benefit of an aftermarket catback on these cars is weight reduction and sound. The factory catback is heavy, but it's weight is low to the ground and probably helps handling.

It sucks man. I sincerely wish I could say that our cars responded well to bolt-on performance mods, but that's not the case. It is what it is. If you want performance, you gotta spend money. If you want a race car, you need a race engine. There's no miracle mod, there's no cheap way out. Keep in mind, when you start messing with factory engineering, things start breaking and reliability goes down the drain. How many races do you think those Compact Cup cars can handle before the engines require a complete teardown and rebuild? Are you prepared to do that with a street car? When you tighten tolerances, you shorten intervals.

Last edited by cooljess76; 09-11-2011 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 09-11-2011, 03:17 AM   #23
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BMW didn't invest millions of dollars designing these engines only to restrict it with a poorly engineered intake. A 16 year old kid with access to his parent's ebay account isn't going to out-smart a team of well trained engineers that spent countless hours researching and developing engines for BMW. That being said, there most certainly are design flaws on these cars. One being BMW using a sedan window regulator to raise and lower a coupe-sized window. But when it comes to the powerplant and drivetrain, I think they had their heads screwed on tightly. We're all looking for the best bang for our buck here and there's performance gains to be had, you guys are just looking in the wrong place.

Focus on maintenance, preventative maintenance, suspension, steering and braking. Perhaps you'd feel a noticeable throttle response with a lightweight flywheel, tighter shifting with a short shifter kit, more responsive steering with a Z3 steering rack, better braking with a system flush, new pads and rotors and steel braided brake lines, better stability with new bushings, ball joints and tie rods, better handling with sport tuned shocks, struts and springs, better grip on the road with good high performance tires, better traction in and out of corners with a limited slip differential, or perhaps better peace of mind with a brand new cooling system.
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Old 09-11-2011, 03:49 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiFreak View Post
I'd go with a fogg, if you can find one I'd also recommend swapping the air box with one from a 95 318ti, it takes the air from behind the drivers headlight instead of taking it from behind the passenger headlight and pulling it over the radiator
tiFreak's got the right idea, but you don't have to swap the airbox. Just add the intake funnel from the '95. It's like $14 from the dealership for the part. All you need is that and a hole saw or Dremel to create the opening and you're done.

http://www.318ti.org/notebook/M44_du...ake/index.html

I did this to mine about 11 years ago and it's been trouble-free. With this setup the intake air temps are only about 15 degrees over ambient as long as the car's moving. I did put some heat shielding (Dynamat) on the side of the airbox that faces the radiator. I don't think it made that much difference, but it wasn't expensive or difficult. It might be worth putting something on the tube that runs across the top of the radiator (the stock M44 intake path), but I haven't gotten around to trying it yet. I've never tried any of the other options for intakes, but I'd be surprised if you get much cooler air than this setup. Personally I prefer the reliability and the performance of the factory paper filter so this works well for me. I've never felt the need to trade that functionality to eek out the last few degrees of lower air temps.
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Old 10-13-2011, 05:22 AM   #25
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I just finished my CAI on my Ti. Lesson is that you don't drive with a CAI in the rain season... COMMON SENSE!!
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Old 10-13-2011, 01:50 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by cooljess76 View Post
BMW didn't invest millions of dollars designing these engines only to restrict it with a poorly engineered intake.
with all due respect that is EXACTLY the kind of thing BMW would do... hence the popularity of manifold swaps between M52 and M50 engines!
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:08 AM   #27
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some love the "Mod" some hate the mod.. Personally I love the mod but once it starts raining bad..I'll be putting in my SRI.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:24 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by urbanmisfit View Post
Be careful with oil impregnated filters; you could end up contaminating your MAS. People clean them with alcohol but I don't know if it works.
Great point, my shop cringes when BMW's come in with a K&N setup. Oil on the MAF is a no-no....and yes MAF's are pricey...and no, do not buy a used one off CL
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