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Old 08-11-2009, 06:02 PM   #1
L84THSKY
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Default CEL "Cylinders 1 & 2 Ping Sensor"

I finished the coolant refresh upgrade, fixed one CEL, and now have another. The code says "cylinders 1 & 2 ping sensor". Can anyone tell me where exactly that sensor is? I'm not sure if I actually may have damaged that sensor, or there is a fuel/air leak causing that CEL.

The weird thing is, I feel like I have a DISA valve issue. The car seems to have a hesitation when I hit the 4000 rpm range. Do these DISA valves go bad, can they be tested or lubricated?

Thanks
Eric
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Old 08-11-2009, 10:06 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L84THSKY View Post
I finished the coolant refresh upgrade, fixed one CEL, and now have another. The code says "cylinders 1 & 2 ping sensor". Can anyone tell me where exactly that sensor is? I'm not sure if I actually may have damaged that sensor, or there is a fuel/air leak causing that CEL.

The weird thing is, I feel like I have a DISA valve issue. The car seems to have a hesitation when I hit the 4000 rpm range. Do these DISA valves go bad, can they be tested or lubricated?

Thanks
Eric
No you have a bad knock sensor. The 1/2 is located behind the side plastic water pipe on the engine under the intake manifold. The DISA valve feeling is spark advance retard due to the sensor not working and the DME going into minimal spark mode. If you clear the code and immediately take a run you will not get that issue until the sensor code returns. I had the same issue and had to replace the sensors. both need to be replaces since they are pig-tailed together
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Old 08-11-2009, 11:04 PM   #3
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Thanks for the answer. Being that I just messed around under there doing the coolant upgrade, could I have just not put the sensor wires back on correctly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
No you have a bad knock sensor. The 1/2 is located behind the side plastic water pipe on the engine under the intake manifold. The DISA valve feeling is spark advance retard due to the sensor not working and the DME going into minimal spark mode. If you clear the code and immediately take a run you will not get that issue until the sensor code returns. I had the same issue and had to replace the sensors. both need to be replaces since they are pig-tailed together
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:29 PM   #4
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Thanks for the answer. Being that I just messed around under there doing the coolant upgrade, could I have just not put the sensor wires back on correctly?
Possible or you damaged the wire on the front sensor like I did when I changed the coolant pipe on my car. Changed pipe put it back together then had to pull it back apart to do the knock sensor
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:52 PM   #5
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JohnBoy to the rescue.

The knock sensor lead going to the 1 & 2 cylinder was damaged. It happened just like John said. I took the bolt out of the sensor, tried to pull the sensor out from under the y-pipe coolant piece, and it wouldn't budge. The wire was stuck under the bolt that holds the coolant pipe on the block. Mashed under the bolt is more like it.

Just finished replacing the sensor, made sure it wasn't pinched, and also made sure it wasn't against the engine where it could melt the insulation.

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1998 (July) 318ti, 5-spd
OEM Armrest • Blaupunkt Heidelberg CD50 CD Player/Compact Drive MP3 Player • Diamond Audio 5.25" rear speakers • Navman ICN 530 GPS • BMWALARM.COM (with comfort settings) after market alarm system • Magnecor 8.5mm wires • M-Z3 Shifter/Momo Knob • Burlwood Dashboard • Stromung Exhaust • X-brace • Racing Dynamics Front Strut Bar • Carbonio C.A.I. • 17" Rial Rims • Vader Seats/Heated/Lumbar Support • M-tech Steering Wheel/Front Sway Bar/Front & Rear Bumper • Depos/w 6500K Angel Eyes/6000K HIDs • Clear Corners • M3 Mirrors • UUC Light Weight Flywheel/M5 Clutch/M3 Clutch Slave • E28 3.46 LSD/Mcoupe Cover/E30 Flanges & Halfshafts • UUC S.S. Brake/Clutch Lines • Hartge Roof Spoiler • BavAuto Springs• Bilstein Sport Struts/Shocks • E46 M3 Rear Shock Mounts • SPC Front Camber Kit • Reiger Hatch Spoiler • BavAuto Rear Camber Kit • Dinan Stage II Software • Turner Rear Sway Bar Reinforcements • BMW E46 Auto dimming mirror with Clown Nose alarm • Engine Compartment Light • Heated Wiper Fluid Retrofit • OEM Fire Extinguisher • Da'lan Trailer Hitch • Rear Sun Shade • OEM Fog Light Retrofit • H & R MZ3 Rear Sway Bar/ UUC Adjustable End Links • Cruise Control Retrofit • On Board Computer Retrofit • M3 twistie style side skirts • Carbon Fiber Hood

Last edited by L84THSKY; 08-23-2009 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:57 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by L84THSKY View Post
JohnBoy to the rescue.

The knock sensor lead going to the 1 & 2 cylinder was damaged. It happened just like John said. I took the bolt out of the sensor, tried to pull the sensor out from under the y-pipe coolant piece, and it wouldn't budge. The wire was stuck under the bolt that hold the coolant pipe on the block. Mashed under the bolt is more like it.

Just finished replacing the sensor, made sure it wasn't pinched, and also made sure it wasn't against the engine where it could melt the insulation.

Before you put it all together make sure you have a clean surface were the knock sensors mount and torque those sensors. I think it is around 30ft# but check that since it's been 2 years since I looked up that torque value
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:02 PM   #7
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To be honest I didn't torque them down.
No way I was gonna get a toque wrench in there. It's all back together. I cleared the code, and hope it doesn't come back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
Before you put it all together make sure you have a clean surface were the knock sensors mount and torque those sensors. I think it is around 30ft# but check that since it's been 2 years since I looked up that torque value
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1998 (July) 318ti, 5-spd
OEM Armrest • Blaupunkt Heidelberg CD50 CD Player/Compact Drive MP3 Player • Diamond Audio 5.25" rear speakers • Navman ICN 530 GPS • BMWALARM.COM (with comfort settings) after market alarm system • Magnecor 8.5mm wires • M-Z3 Shifter/Momo Knob • Burlwood Dashboard • Stromung Exhaust • X-brace • Racing Dynamics Front Strut Bar • Carbonio C.A.I. • 17" Rial Rims • Vader Seats/Heated/Lumbar Support • M-tech Steering Wheel/Front Sway Bar/Front & Rear Bumper • Depos/w 6500K Angel Eyes/6000K HIDs • Clear Corners • M3 Mirrors • UUC Light Weight Flywheel/M5 Clutch/M3 Clutch Slave • E28 3.46 LSD/Mcoupe Cover/E30 Flanges & Halfshafts • UUC S.S. Brake/Clutch Lines • Hartge Roof Spoiler • BavAuto Springs• Bilstein Sport Struts/Shocks • E46 M3 Rear Shock Mounts • SPC Front Camber Kit • Reiger Hatch Spoiler • BavAuto Rear Camber Kit • Dinan Stage II Software • Turner Rear Sway Bar Reinforcements • BMW E46 Auto dimming mirror with Clown Nose alarm • Engine Compartment Light • Heated Wiper Fluid Retrofit • OEM Fire Extinguisher • Da'lan Trailer Hitch • Rear Sun Shade • OEM Fog Light Retrofit • H & R MZ3 Rear Sway Bar/ UUC Adjustable End Links • Cruise Control Retrofit • On Board Computer Retrofit • M3 twistie style side skirts • Carbon Fiber Hood
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Old 11-25-2009, 05:59 AM   #8
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I have a knock code too-- OBD P0325. I'll scan with Peake and Carsoft tomorrow. It's very persistent and keeps coming back. Car doesn't knock and I didn't do any work lately. Maybe it really is bad.

BTW the Torque value is 15 ft-lbs according to Bentley. Too much and you'll break it, too little and you can get detonation.

Any advice? Pulling the DASC is a PITA!!
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