When any car i work on does not start i do these steps first. 1. Compression Test 2. Ignition System Test (test coil pack, plugs) 3. Fuel System Check (pump, fuel rail pressure, injectors) -------------Test fuel pump, Ensure fuel is being supplied to the rail, ensure fuel pressure is on rail constantly when motor turns over sometimes the fuel pump relay shuts off the fuel pump after it has primed and stays in the off state so car will start but will die out soon after, do a continuity and powered test on the injectors make sure they are not sticking ------------ Once all these are tested if fine and car isn't running i proceed with testing sensors, Crank Sensor, Crank position, Crank Pulse, Cam Angle Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor, Air Flow Meter. If these are working and still not starting i move to the electrical, check DME/ECU for proper supply, constant 12V, ignition trigger, relays in the engine bay. ----------------- But reading that you changed the tumbler i will tell you my story i had the same issue where the key was stuck in the barrel (once) and on the second occasion (pulled the key out with the steering lock and still remained lock key would not turn) I didnt remove the barrel / tumbler while it was still attached to the steering column i removed the back of the key thingy that is attacked to the steering column the part that has the electrical bits in it (main switching part that makes contact when you turn the key) popped out the little notch the steering was unlocked and key was free to move in the barrel. One thing to note is the position on the switching part when putting it back together because if set on the wrong position you will not get to start position or may not hold ignition state. Something to think about. I imported a MaxiDas 708 now so diagnosing issues on my TI is much faster. If all fails get it scanned and isolate the electronic issues if there are any and go on from there. |