Refresh and autox prep

[MINIz guy]

I have a lot of time that I should be using to study, but I'm going to take a break and ask a few questions.

I need to refresh the whole suspension on my 318ti and get it autox friendly. I plan to compete in STX class, so I will be going coilovers and urethane bushings. My budget won't allow for GC coilovers, so I will most likely get BC Racing or Fortune Auto branded ones.

My plans for the front suspension are Meyle HD control arms, and Lemforder tierods. Now should I get offset or centered urethane bushings? I don't know the difference besides one giving me more caster, but how much do I need for an autox car, especially since I have camber plates? Also, what brand is good and what durometer rubber?

The rear suspension is more controversial. Some say to keep the stock rubber as urethane doesn't deflect and wears out fast. Others say to go urethane in both the subframe and RTABs for autox. So, now that it is 2013, what RTAB and subframe bushing should I get?

If I do get urethane subframe bushes, I have access to the subframe bush removal tool from BMW (thanks to BMWCCA!). Will I be able to put on the urethane bushes without dropping the subframe?

I also need to do a diff bushing. I'm guessing stock will do though, right?

And my final question; what is the best shop manual to buy for the 318ti? Bentley manual? Haynes?

[bmorekirby]

Bentley hands down

[BimmerBum]

At what level are you planning on competing? I ask because a set of RS3's (THE STX Tire) and a set of Hawk HP Plus pads will do far more than all the suspension items you discussed. If you do not have those 2 basic (but not inexpensive) modifications you will likely struggle to compete at even a local level.

I speak from STX experience... my E46 wagon has A LOT of suspension and with 300 tread wear tires and stock brake pads I struggle to run mid pack at the local level.

That said, if you have worn parts you should replace those.

[MINIz guy]

The parts are very worn, and the car is off the road until I can get those replaced. It has been up on a lift and there is lots of play in the front suspension (control arms and tierods have play as bad as 1" L/R on one wheel), along with blown struts. The rear has a broken coil and the diff bushing is worn out. I figured I should do everything since most of it is bad, and I have only driven the car 50 miles since I've bought it. And since I plan to compete in STX, I don't want to just replace with stock parts and have to redo everything a few thousand miles down the road.

I plan on competing at a local level for STX. In terms of tires, I just planned to get Rivals or ZII's and call it a day there. What I really want to do first though is to get the car safe for the road, and the play in my suspension won't let that happen. That said, I see this as a summer-2014 project so I may not even be able to hit an autox before the tire-wear rules are revised and Rivals aren't allowed anymore.

So I know I'm jumping the gun a little with going straight into suspension work, but it is needed to have a drivable car. Now can you guys guide me on what type of rubber and brands to buy from?

[BimmerBum]

RS3's are cheaper and proving to be slightly faster than the rivals, at least here locally.

As for bushings... I would suggest urethane differential and sub frame bushings of the same hardness, urethane trailing arm bushings, upgraded rear shock mounts, solid M3 front control arm bushings (at least... maybe delrin), stock lemforder control arms, stock lemforder tie rods, stock upper strut mounts and for the shocks and springs... H&R race springs and Koni adjustables.

That recipe with RS3's, HP Plus's, and solid driving should make you reasonably competitive in STX locally.

Full disclosure... I sell everything listed above.

[MINIz guy]

That's a good list. I still will be doing coilovers as it should be around the same cost, and I need the height adjustability since I only want a ~1 inch drop to still be able to get around my driveway. I will be going full urethane too then.

I know about your site and will be placing an order soon for engine gaskets to get rid of my oil leak first. There's gonna be a big journey ahead with this car...

[teen ti]

Id throw a limited slip diff on that list as well, you'll find that you're spinning the inside wheel a lot more than you'd think

[MINIz guy]

I'm not going to worry about that just yet. I plan to get it running first, then work on the rest of the setup such as sways and diffs. I do think I will get a Z3 one or E28 one way later down the road.

One more thing springs to mind, my driver's side strut tower is slightly mushroomed. If I hammer it flat, and get M3 reinforcement plates, will I be fine? Do the M3 plates work in conjunction with camber plates?

[BimmerBum]

Originally Posted by MINIz guy

I'm not going to worry about that just yet. I plan to get it running first, then work on the rest of the setup such as sways and diffs. I do think I will get a Z3 one or E28 one way later down the road.

One more thing springs to mind, my driver's side strut tower is slightly mushroomed. If I hammer it flat, and get M3 reinforcement plates, will I be fine? Do the M3 plates work in conjunction with camber plates?

Check STX rules before you go diff shopping.

The right way to fix that is by welding in a repair piece. The reinforcement plates do not fit under all camber plates but you can modify them fairly easily.

[MINIz guy]

Okay.

I still need 1 question answered.

Is it possible to install urethane subframe bushings without removing the subframe?

I can use the BMW tool to remove the original subframe bushes. Will there be enough clearance to put the urethane bushing back on after?

[MINIz guy]

After some searching, I have answered my own question. I do need to remove the subframe to install new urethane bushings.

Another question.

Searching my local Craigslist, I found a Bilstein Sport with BavAuto springs suspension setup for the ti. Guy said that he blew his engine and parted out the car, these were the last to go. For $450, do you guys think this is a decent deal?

[teen ti]

how many miles does the set have on it, seems a little over priced to me but not terrible if they're relatively new

[MINIz guy]

I'm almost ready to go back home for Thanksgiving break and contacted the seller again.

It was the BavAuto kit for $770 and it was installed on the car for less than 1k miles (1 month) before the seller's engine blew. It is the complete kit, the part numbers match, and it also has the included strut/shock mounts.

The seller is saying $400, which is nearly 50% off. I doubt I'm going to find a better deal than this. What do you guys think?

[Artem]

There were bad things written here about bavauto springs, concensus was they are no good from what I remember. The shocks are good though.

[MINIz guy]

Yep. Looks like they don't go very low, which I don't care about. They are also soft, which is fine for DD duties but not autox. I think I'm still gonna get them given that they aren't leaking when I see them in person. I can't get 4 Bilsteins with mounts for $380 anyway.

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