» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | 1999 M3 Swap 09-07-2023 10:10 PM 05-02-2024 08:18 PM 6 Replies, 405,266 Views | | | | | 03-05-2006, 03:42 AM | #1 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Southern California Posts: 225 | Do I need to replace brake line/ hose? I'm going to do the brake this week. I have just a few questions to ask. My car has over 140 kmiles on it. I am wondering if there is any need to replace the brake lines. what kind of fluid would you guys recomend? I already asked this question in another thread but I repeat it here. Has anyone had (or know of anyone who had) some sort of experiences with BOSCH brake pads? I want something that can stop my car, yet with little dirt, and no squeak. I heard good things about Axxis/PBR ultimate, but still want to consider Bosch. __________________ Love my ti | | | 03-05-2006, 04:11 AM | #2 | Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Regensburg, Germany Posts: 584 | I dont think replacing the brake lines is necessary. I have 220,000 miles on mine. However, I just bought Brembo cross drilled rotors off ebay for $150. When I do that, I'm also replacing the brake lines with Braided Stainless Steel ones. Its not necessary, but it does make a difference. I got the brake lines for $70 for the front only. I got them from buybrakes.com. I wouldnt recommend them, because their website says that everything ships from their NC shop, but it took 12 days for me to get the brake lines and I have yet to get the brake pads. I ordered it all on Feb 16. Otherwise, if you dont mind waiting, the price is good. I also heard that the cross drilled rotors make more noise when braking, this is the first time for me, so I dont know that for a fact. My opinion is to go ahead and replace the brake lines with braided stainless steel, and use a good brake fluid like redline. Its nothing to replace them. | | | 03-05-2006, 04:29 AM | #3 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Walnut Creek, CA Posts: 642 | 96ti, I concur with Bobbydigital. There is no "need" to replace your brake lines if they look in good shape. That being said, since you are doing this yourself, or at I assume you are, you are saving a good bit of money on labor. You could use it towards a nice set of SS lines. I personally would recommend UUC or Goodridge line. UUC's are coated with a plastic sleeve for added protection. It's not too often that you are doing the brakes, so while your there, and your going to flush the system, might as well put in the lines too. That way you have the peace of mind knowing that at least for another 140K, your lines are good. As for fluid, I use ATE super blue or gold. Same product, different color, so that each time you fluch the system, you use the other color so you can see when the new fluid has flushed out the old. __________________ '95 330ti CS w/sr delete, S50USB30, cams, 24# inj, Conforti SW, Euro HFM, Samco Silicone Intake Boot, BBTB, Euro Oil Cooler, JTD CAI Duct, RE DMS exhaust, RE Tranny mounts, CF Valve Cover, LTW flywheel/Kevlar sprung hub clutch, RE SSK, 3.46 Finned LSD (M6) , M3 tranny, Brembos, RE Wheel Studs, SS brake/clutch lines, CF interior, Rear Headrest retrofit, Tilt Steering retrofit, 13.5 lb DynaBatt in rear, LED interior/footwell lights, ZKW HID, Headlight Aim Control, Rear fog light w/cluster indicator, CF 3 Aux gauge pod, BMW Traffic Pro/Alpine MP3-CD Changer, Staggered LTW wheels, '95 M3 steering rack, VIS CF Hood, M3 LTW Strut Bar, TCK SA coilovers, Red LTW Motorsport Seatbelts, OEM Fire Extinguisher, Z8 Starter button, Auto dim rear view mirror w/ Homelink/Compass, PDC, Rear Sun Shade, Euro Gauge Cluster w/oil temp/shift light , Headlight Washers, "Motorsport" Door Handles, CF Grills, French ZKW Fogs, Euro dash bins, Power Lumbar Support is next, Coming e39 M5 interior light, Bimmer Magazine 8/2007 | | | 03-05-2006, 04:47 AM | #4 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Southern California Posts: 225 | Thanks a lot guys. I would look into those products. And Yes, I'm doing the break myself. __________________ Love my ti | | | 03-05-2006, 11:04 PM | #5 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Southern California Posts: 225 | Do I need to get the 6 line set or 4 line? __________________ Love my ti | | | 03-05-2006, 11:09 PM | #6 | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: England, UK Posts: 1,288 | 6 for rear disk models. 4 for rear drums..... __________________ 1995 BMW 316i Cosmos Black Mods: • Magnex Cat-Back Exhaust • Smoked Corner Lights + Repeators • M3 17" Wheels • De-Baffled Air Box • AC HandBrake Handle and Gear Knob • DEPO Euro Epsiloids + Predator Chronium Rings • Chrome Interior bits •IE Poly-Urethane RSFMs • Kenwood Power Series Audio • Powder Coated e36 325 Front Callipers • Sports Seats | | | 03-06-2006, 11:39 PM | #7 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Port St. Johns, Florida Posts: 2,242 | you need a 14mm Box end although with the UUC lines keep a 15mm around, as a 14 is sometimes too tight to get on the lines. 11mm Flare nut 11mm box end stub wrench. 1.5L of fluid. I recommend Ate Super Blue fluid | | | 03-29-2006, 06:55 PM | #8 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Southern California Posts: 225 | Thanks a lot guys, I figured out that I don't need new break lines, but I'll bleed the system w/ ate blue break fluid. BTW, while doing the breaks. I notice that my car has only 4 lines, and it has disk break in the rear, not drum. __________________ Love my ti | | | 04-05-2006, 02:42 AM | #9 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Walnut Creek, CA Posts: 642 | 96ti, Just to clarify something.........BRAKES stop the car. Some things may BREAK on the car, but BREAKS don't stop the car. It's just painful to read when you are using the wrong word. Also, with the rear discs, there are in fact 4 lines back there. Two are near the calipers, and two others are higher up at the pivot points of the trailing arms. Hope you DIY brake job goes well. It's not hard. __________________ '95 330ti CS w/sr delete, S50USB30, cams, 24# inj, Conforti SW, Euro HFM, Samco Silicone Intake Boot, BBTB, Euro Oil Cooler, JTD CAI Duct, RE DMS exhaust, RE Tranny mounts, CF Valve Cover, LTW flywheel/Kevlar sprung hub clutch, RE SSK, 3.46 Finned LSD (M6) , M3 tranny, Brembos, RE Wheel Studs, SS brake/clutch lines, CF interior, Rear Headrest retrofit, Tilt Steering retrofit, 13.5 lb DynaBatt in rear, LED interior/footwell lights, ZKW HID, Headlight Aim Control, Rear fog light w/cluster indicator, CF 3 Aux gauge pod, BMW Traffic Pro/Alpine MP3-CD Changer, Staggered LTW wheels, '95 M3 steering rack, VIS CF Hood, M3 LTW Strut Bar, TCK SA coilovers, Red LTW Motorsport Seatbelts, OEM Fire Extinguisher, Z8 Starter button, Auto dim rear view mirror w/ Homelink/Compass, PDC, Rear Sun Shade, Euro Gauge Cluster w/oil temp/shift light , Headlight Washers, "Motorsport" Door Handles, CF Grills, French ZKW Fogs, Euro dash bins, Power Lumbar Support is next, Coming e39 M5 interior light, Bimmer Magazine 8/2007 | | | 04-05-2006, 04:51 AM | #10 | Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Regensburg, Germany Posts: 584 | Yeah, it kills me too. 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