diff swap question - Page 2

Mallard · 03-20-2008, 10:44 AM

a 323 dif is 3.03 iirc?

zboot · 03-26-2008, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwd_king

thats great info! thanks L8 and Zboot... did you also replace the flanges on your swap like L8 or was it not needed?
the guy selling has yet to get back to me about the 3.25 differential, so im going to start looking else where.

Ive located a 3.15 Z3 differential...can I use my current halfshafts with no issues? or would e30/z3 still be the way to go?

Hi, I did not have to replace the flanges on my swap. The half shaft flanges looked different, but they fit and bolted up perfectly.

campaiar · 03-26-2008, 02:35 PM

I just did another one of these swaps, this time on my 1998 332ti. Sometime between 1995 and 1998, BMW made the modification to the hatch floor support that I had to make myself with the angle grinder on the 1995.

One of the best surprises ever. Outside of shimming the ABS sensors, it was a direct bolt in.

I used a stock 1999 Z3 3.15 LSD diff with E30 halfshafts.

Again, outside of inserting one washer between the hubs and the ABS sensor, it was bolt in and go.

I recommend the larger flanges and E30 halfshafts for anyone with a swapped ti. They are beefy when compared to the stock ti units.

jimmyloose · 05-16-2008, 05:52 PM

I'm swapping mine and the driveshaft is too long. What do I do?

thesk8nmidget · 05-16-2008, 06:07 PM

its not actually to long.

i thought the same thing.

you need to just put the driveshaft bolts in then the highest two bolts. i used a punch to align the holes with the bolts and then the bushing bolt and then the front two. it takes some effort though. not a completely perfect fit but is once you get it pryed, shoved and pushed into the right position.

it is tricky. dont give up

jimmyloose · 05-20-2008, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thesk8nmidget

its not actually to long.

i thought the same thing.

you need to just put the driveshaft bolts in then the highest two bolts. i used a punch to align the holes with the bolts and then the bushing bolt and then the front two. it takes some effort though. not a completely perfect fit but is once you get it pryed, shoved and pushed into the right position.

it is tricky. dont give up

Meaning during the install it's difficult but in the installed position it's correct?

I don't want my center support bearing to wear out in 500 miles...

Bluebimma · 05-27-2008, 06:57 PM

Its just a pain in the arse to get it up there and get all the bolts lined up, especially if youre laying on your back. The new diff fits without a problem and everything aligned properly, just takes effort.

Philly · 05-27-2008, 07:04 PM

im about to start my diff swap this evening... im wondering about the ABS sensor, i don't want to shim it, just in case i have to revert to stock for whatever reason.

SO you guys simply used washers to back them up just a little bit? any particular washers? i know they are not all created equal, so thats why i ask.

Bluebimma · 05-27-2008, 07:09 PM

If you you dont use e30 halfshafts, just use the ti output flange and the stock halfshafts, no need to worry about sensors then.

thesk8nmidget · 05-27-2008, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluebimma

If you you dont use e30 halfshafts, just use the ti output flange and the stock halfshafts, no need to worry about sensors then.

also be sure to see if the e30 shafts are abs shafts.. if they are they will have the little teeth if not they will be smooth and it doesnt matter anyways. but yes little washers work fine but a shim isnt permanant either its justa big washer thats fabbed to fit the whole sensor correctly.

easy to make too

Philly · 05-27-2008, 07:48 PM

i understand what you guys are saying by shimming now... i just wasn't interpreting that right. Still don't totally understand whats needed to be done there, ive never really explored that region of the car, so it'll be a fly by the seat of my pants kinda thing... but i think i can handle it... thanks

thesk8nmidget · 05-27-2008, 08:57 PM

it makes perfect sense once you take the sensor off.
i was confused as well at first but check it out and you wil be like OHHH ok!

cali-ti has a picture of the shim he made in his gallery

Philly · 06-12-2008, 01:19 AM

okay, so my diff is dropped and the new one ready to be installed with the new halfshafts... (OMFG WHAT A PITA SOME OF THOSE BOLTS WERE!) They were rust-welded to the friggin car and I had to use almost a whole can of PB before they finally came loose... lol

ANYWAYS, my reason for posting is about the "shimming" of the ABS sensors... anyone know what width the washer/shim should be for it to work correctly?

thesk8nmidget · 06-12-2008, 01:25 AM

pm replied to.

but it should be self explanatory once you have the axles in.

just make sure you pull the sensors out then put the axles in.
once the axles are in set the sensors in the hole and see how much gap is needed to make them clear properly

Philly · 06-12-2008, 04:02 AM

Yah thanks for the info.... i appreciate it

I messed with it tonight, took the sensor out and put one of the shafts in and figured alot of it out... realized the sensor is just a magnet, pretty neat how it all works.

So my only real question is how close the sensor should be to the pulse rings? not touching of course, but as close I can get them without touching?...
I know I sound kinda stupid, but I just don't wanna back them up to far and have them not work and have to go messing with them again.

Sorry but I really didn't examine how deep/close it was when the old halfshafts were still there.

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