Trouble pulling 6 cyl. engine for 325ti

[95gizmo]

I hope some of you engine swap experts are around. I am in the middle of my swap. I have prepped the Alaska blue ti. It came with a thrown rod and pulling out the engine was a snap. I removed the full front end like in blue bimmas photos. Now I have the 325i parts car in the garage. I disconnected everything and hooked up the hoist. (I do not have a leveler) I have the front end off and I removed the exhaust manifolds. I was planning to pull the eng with accessories attached and the trans attached. As I lift the oil pan seems to be hooked behind and under the steering shaft and coupler. The back of the engine is against the firewall. The motormount leg on the passenger side is against the frame. The engine is sitting fairly level. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG ? Do I need to drop the trans more? do I need to remove the pass side leg and ac compressor? HELP

[Bluebimma]

If youre trying to get it out of the 325 still with the front end on, you definately need it tilted. If the front end is off, you still need to tilt it, you cant take it out with it being level. Also, twisting the assembly, about 30 degrees counter clockwise, from front of car looking to rear, then tilting the assembly from the front of the engine should get you over the subframe and clear the steering assembly. If all fails, take the tranny off and pull them one at a time.

[95gizmo]

Thanks blue I'll give it a try.

[cooljess76]

The easiest way is to tilt the engine like bluebimma said, but if you don't have a load leveler, just drop the front subframe, it's only like 4 bolts.

[95gizmo]

Thanks Guyz

I got it out. I used a combo of both your suggestions. I ran out to Pepboys and picked up a load leveler, but when I looked at the situation with the motor hanging half out I decided it would be dangerous to swap (I'll set it up nice when I put it back in. I got it tipped but the tail didn't touch the floor (perhaps it should have) I pulled the steering shaft from the rack --- A A LMOST. Then I loosened the subframe till it was hanging by a few threads and out she came.

Now I have some cleaning and planning to do.

Thanks again
Ed

[zboot]

I found that it worked best to use a floor jack under the oil pan to help get it over. Play around a bit and you should be able to get it. I didn't use a load leveler at all with my swap.

[J!m]

This is clear in my swap manual...

Take the gight side motor mount leg off the engine so the pan can clear the steering shaft.

It doesn't fit without scratching something any other way.

The exhaust manifolds and A/C compressor can stay on the engine with no issues.

Glad you worked it out!

[95gizmo]

Thanks J!m

By Right , do you mean drivers side or passenger side?

It seems either might help. What about the PS resevoir?

Thanks

[J!m]

Right always means right.

On a US spec car, right is the passenger's side; however on a UK spec car, right means driver's side. That is why we use right and left and not driver and passenger side.

I work a lot with Land Rover's as well, and those are 50-50 right and left hand drive, so it is critical to use the industry standard nomenclature.

You remove the right mount bracket and then the engine can come right more, to avoid the steering shaft. If you hit that shaft, you have to replace it. Needles to say, it is difficult and expensive to replace...