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1999 M3 Swap
09-07-2023 10:10 PM
Last post by buzzboy
05-02-2024 08:18 PM
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Old 03-20-2008, 05:08 PM   #16
stuwey08
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theres a metal thing attached to the end of the rail at the bulk head end o the rail, it looks like a valve sort of thing and has thin pipe/pipes coming off it.. i have narrowed the fault down to fuel delivery, the injectors work because you can hear and see then actuating, i pulled all the injectors off the fuel rail so there was holes there and theres was only a tiny bit of fuel resting there, i turned to ignition so the fuel pump pumps fuel thorough and nothing came out of the holes?! is that righht or should it be streaming out? by the way before i connected the fuel lines to the pipes dangling from the manifold there was fuel puoring out when i turn the key. only thing i can think of is the fuel pipe is blocked just above that, does it matter which way the two pipes are connected i might have got them the wrong way round :S
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Old 03-20-2008, 05:33 PM   #17
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i would post over at bimmerforums.com since they are more likely to know your m52 problems. there are a few people here they could help but there are hundred of people there.

but keep us updated
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Old 03-20-2008, 07:10 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuwey08 View Post
theres a metal thing attached to the end of the rail at the bulk head end o the rail, it looks like a valve sort of thing and has thin pipe/pipes coming off it.. i have narrowed the fault down to fuel delivery, the injectors work because you can hear and see then actuating, i pulled all the injectors off the fuel rail so there was holes there and theres was only a tiny bit of fuel resting there, i turned to ignition so the fuel pump pumps fuel thorough and nothing came out of the holes?! is that righht or should it be streaming out? by the way before i connected the fuel lines to the pipes dangling from the manifold there was fuel puoring out when i turn the key. only thing i can think of is the fuel pipe is blocked just above that, does it matter which way the two pipes are connected i might have got them the wrong way round :S
it could be the fuel lines but make sure your fuel pump works.
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Old 03-20-2008, 08:44 PM   #19
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Does solenoid click when you try to start? If not, I still think its EWS problem.
You should read the "fault codes".
My E39 had same problem, and EWS unit was broken. They ordered new unit at the dealership and coded it with the DME. That solved my problem.
Hope you can work out yours.

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Old 03-20-2008, 10:54 PM   #20
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Swapped the fuel lines over whilst the fuel rail was off and voila gasoline came pouring out when i turned the fuel pump on.. i connect everything back up again turned the key... and it started! Im soo excited cannot wait to test drive but i need an exhaust and the front end of the car back on.. Whats the power like compared to the 1.8? ive left the standard box and diff in from the TI so im guessing it will be geared down quite a bit.. also im using the TI clutch temoprarily until i can afford an M3 one.

Next post i will write up the project with a few pics to follow....
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Old 03-21-2008, 05:55 PM   #21
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Uh, you won't be able to appreciate the full power of the 2.8 with the TI clutch installed. You'll need a M3 flywheel too.

Ask me how I know.
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:06 PM   #22
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glad you got it all figured out! its about damn time! post up some pictures we would love to see!
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Old 03-23-2008, 05:11 PM   #23
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just got a full stainless scorpion system installed, sounds gorgeous, not too loud but verry raspy and deep induction noise.. took it for a spin 5 minutes ago and all i can say is WOW!! the power is amazing..me being used to the 1.8 havent felt this sort of power before, its amazing especially in the high revs it nails to your seat!! 100 perecent definately glad i did the swap, im so excited, mates in thier savo vts and rover 2litr turbo think ive no chance hahaha this car is stupidly fast.. i love it!

next update ill send pics
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:52 PM   #24
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I know what you mean campaiar, the clutch slips massively, anything more than 1/4 to half throttle and it slips, loads!
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Old 05-20-2008, 11:11 PM   #25
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didn't want to start a new post here... sooooo

can someone tell me when swapping EWS, does it matter which key barrel you use? I know its just basically an antenna... I swapped in my 328 ews, but left the stock key barrel.... is this going to matter when i go to start it?
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Old 05-21-2008, 12:05 AM   #26
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no it doesnt, just make sure you swap the little transponder chip inside the key, that matches the ecu and ews box for the 2.8, original barrel/key can be used fine. i basically just swapped over the EWS box under glove box, the ecu obviously, the little EWS antenna box under the steering column, and the transponder chip in the key, thats it....works perfect
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Old 05-21-2008, 01:49 AM   #27
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yeah i did the key chip swap... EWS under the steering column, and DME obviously...

I went to give it a try and it started to turn over, of course i wasn't going to start it because its not even close to being ready to start (needs coolant, oil change, etc) but it started to crank... so i guess that means im all good then???

I didn't swap anything out under the glove box though...
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Old 05-21-2008, 01:54 AM   #28
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you definately need that box under the glove box, you need to take the glove box completely out with the 4 screws, and there will be a rack with a few boxes on all plugged in, look for the one that has EWS II or similar written on it..

Other thing you can try to see if your ews does just happen to work is to remove the chip in the key and put if away from the car and try and start it, if it doesnt turn over then you know your ews works..
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Old 05-21-2008, 04:37 AM   #29
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it started to crank when i put the key w/ the chip in, and i assume it wouldn't let the starter go at all if the EWS was not functioning the way it should. This is of course without touching anything under the glove box... hmmm Ill try it tommorrow with the old non-chipped key and see if i get a crank out of the starter again.
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:43 PM   #30
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The car will still crank with an ews fault or none matching ews but will not fire. The DME needs info from the ews to let the car fire up. The Key chip, EWS control unit (under glovebox) and DME must all be from the same vehicle as they are a matched set. A dealership can realign them but it will cost a few $$$. Not to mention the hassle of getting a non runner to a dealership.
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