» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | looove 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 0 Replies, 408 Views | | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:45 PM 04-13-2024 11:45 PM 0 Replies, 213 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:43 PM 04-13-2024 11:44 PM 1 Replies, 139 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:40 PM 04-13-2024 11:41 PM 1 Replies, 138 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:38 PM 04-13-2024 11:39 PM 1 Replies, 143 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:36 PM 04-13-2024 11:37 PM 1 Replies, 137 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:35 PM 04-13-2024 11:35 PM 0 Replies, 120 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:34 PM 04-13-2024 11:34 PM 0 Replies, 126 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:33 PM 04-13-2024 11:33 PM 0 Replies, 118 Views | | | | | | 12-03-2010, 02:23 PM | #16 | Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: 43609 Posts: 3,425 | If youre sure the rear bushings are done for, then they need to be replaced, otherwise, the rear will cause instability. Camber has never been an issue for me and im lowered about 3", -2.5* camber in front, 5.5* caster, 0* toe, -1.5* camber rear with mcoupe spings and -2 with coilovers, toe stays within factory spec. I have brand new front suspension from the ground up and havent had any issues with the car going straight. Im replacing the rear subframe bushings, toe and camber kit, and reinforcing the different mount location for further stability and equaling out the torque distribution. __________________ 1995 Hellrot Clubsport 318ti -Gone 1996 Schwartz II Sport 357ti - 5.7L V8 LS1/6 1997 Moregrun Metallic 318ti - Gone 1998 Schwartz II sport 318ti - M50TUB25/5 | | | 12-03-2010, 02:34 PM | #17 | Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Indiana Posts: 50 | So the question is... ...will replacing subframe bushings bring rear camber back into specs? (provided that the left rear trailing arm is not bent?) Cuz that's what it's starting to look like. Off to the junkyard then, because at 900 plus clams, that's out of the question. I just don't want to put myself in a position where I replace a bunch of stuff and it still doesn't sit on the ground correctly. | | | 12-03-2010, 03:23 PM | #18 | Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: 43609 Posts: 3,425 | You need to do subframe and trailing arm bushings to make sure __________________ 1995 Hellrot Clubsport 318ti -Gone 1996 Schwartz II Sport 357ti - 5.7L V8 LS1/6 1997 Moregrun Metallic 318ti - Gone 1998 Schwartz II sport 318ti - M50TUB25/5 | | | 12-03-2010, 05:36 PM | #19 | Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Earth Posts: 178 | Sounds like you have a bent arm to me.. but Don't forget to check your rear shocks! After lowering my ti, it became more stable, I did install trailing arm bushings, even though the originals (140k) were cracked looking on the outside, the rubber was still all there and I don't think it added that much to the instability. Also still running stock subframe bushings (same thing, they looked ripped, but upon removing the subframe, they werent ripped apart or anything so I don't think it would be much different from stock) stock m coupe/roadster has the same subframe bushings. But I do plan on installing harded bushings eventually. I just wanted to test out the difference. BUT I did replace the rear shocks and noticed one of the old ones was dead. I think that was the main cause of my rear instability. lowered about 3", rear toe bothers me more than the neg. camber. my rear tires wore down THROUGH the steel belt on the inside corner and still had tread on the outside.. commuting and not hard track time, but the combo of toe and camber really eats the tires up.. and limits traction.. | | | 12-03-2010, 10:04 PM | #20 | Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Indiana Posts: 50 | Okay, here's one new observation--the stock exhaust actually comes in contact with the axle housing--sometimes I hear a rattle, sometimes not, which means axle housing takes a different position over every bump. A weekend rebuild of the rear suspension is in order. Please help with creating a parts/tools list: Remember, I'm still shooting for OEM MOST of the way. I have seen on another forum how to remove the subframe bushings without removing the axle shaft housing and how to fabricate the tool to do it. (Hope I marked it). I'll see about procedure as I accumulate parts and tools. For the weekend rear end rebuild I already have: oem style shocks, mounts, and bolts. one jack and set of stands So I need: another jack and stands rear subframe bushings left and right rear trailing arm bushings left and right stabilizer brackets and links, and bushings (they have a little rot and wiggle) How about dimensions for the left rear trailing arm, so I can check it by measuring to see if it's bent or not? And what else? | | | 09-13-2017, 07:41 PM | #21 | Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: GA Posts: 10 | You need some type of heat gun to loosen the bushing when you are removing them. It will make your day much easier! | | | 09-15-2017, 10:48 AM | #22 | Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: MA Posts: 65 | This is a 7 year old thread. | | | 09-15-2017, 03:32 PM | #23 | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 9,356 | Bushing probably have been replaced more than once by now. But the heat gun is probably good advice. __________________ ...steven BMW CCA #146825 1996 BMW 328ti • 2003 MINI Cooper S • 2016 M235i www.bmwcca.org | | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |