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Old 08-11-2012, 04:49 AM   #31
cooljess76
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I guess I learned something new today. Could've swore I've read somewhere that the BMW coolant was pre-diluted. I've never used it before but I plan to once I get my car back on the road. Good to know, thanks for clarifying
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:13 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBMWs View Post
Yes, O.K. to top off to Kalt line as needed. I'm doing this myself as well over the next few days. I will open the bleed screw when it's up to operating temp to check for no bubbles. I try to get all air out of the system over the check days.

I used a 50/50 mix of BMW AF and distilled water.
Good deal. doing it now and going to drive to work. I'll monitor the progress, tnx!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljess76;336322[U
]I never just add coolant as I always bleed the system whenever I top it off[/U]. Therefore I top off to the top of the fill neck and it self-levels after driving it. I wouldn't recommend removing the bleed screw or radiator cap when the engine is at operating temp.
Wait, didnt some one JUST tell me this was OK??? Getting scared now .

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Originally Posted by BlackBMWs View Post
Hey Jess!

Since I happed to be refilling my radiator yesterday I checked the BMW coolant label for mixing coolant and distilled water. I had always used a 1:1 mix of BMW coolant and Distilled water and perhaps I shouldn't have.

Wait WHAT?!!! I just DID THIS!!! Should I be concerned???



The way I read it at least this coolant is made to cut down 60/40 or 50/50. The label also confirms BMWs recommendation of not mixing coolant types as they may contain phosphates.

I see the premixed coolant at the autostores going for $12 or so per gal, so a 50/50 mix of the $24 BMW stuff, 1 gal BMW AF plus 1 gal distilled water=2 gal, refill quantity) is still perhaps a little more cash wise, but does not contain phosphates and and in some cases, as in my Zionsville aluminum rad on the 540it, is required to be in warrenty.

Thanks for the rad cap removal clarification. Yeah, don't remove when hot. I have however bled via the bleed screw when at operating temp as the Thermostat is typically open and the system can pass excess air at it's high point. Old school from the M30 motors.

However, rereading the Bentley, you are right. Use the bleed screw when cool, closed when hot. I guess I've been lucky in the past. I can be taught...

Thanks!

Guys...I went from super happy and proud of what I've done to "I'm scared ****less" of whats going to happen to my car due to fragmented information! PLEASE clarify the above. I feel like a kid who was told to join the marines, the army and the navy, all in the same day with all the reasons WHY.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:15 PM   #33
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An what TURDS! They tested the glycol on animals!
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Old 08-11-2012, 04:53 PM   #34
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You were correct in mixing the antifreeze with distilled water 50/50. Technically, water is a better coolant by itself but it needs the antifreeze for the cold weather driving.

To bleed the system correctly you have to open the bleed screw and rad cap while the engine is running so it is going to get warm.

You just don't want to open either the screw or cap after the engine has gotten all the way to operating temperature. Let it cool down a bit before opening the system so the pressure drops. That way you won't get a face full of boiling coolant.

The upper rad hose should be pretty hard at operating temp (it will also be very hot!) and when cool you should be able to squeeze it pretty easily.
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Old 08-11-2012, 11:02 PM   #35
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Sorry, bad choice of words on my part. You're good with a 50/50 mix.


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Originally Posted by nc318tigurl View Post
Good deal. doing it now and going to drive to work. I'll monitor the progress, tnx!



Wait, didnt some one JUST tell me this was OK??? Getting scared now .




Guys...I went from super happy and proud of what I've done to "I'm scared ****less" of whats going to happen to my car due to fragmented information! PLEASE clarify the above. I feel like a kid who was told to join the marines, the army and the navy, all in the same day with all the reasons WHY.
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:40 AM   #36
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Hello.. unfortunately im also here...
Problems started last year in May when my mechanic forgot to plug radiator fan after finishing replacing gaskets on the engine block. My mother drove the car and realised that its overheating after it have boiled and dumped all the coolant out. After that my expansion tank started leaking real hard. I disassembled it and realised that it had been cracked before, but crack could you belive sealed over time and i was loosing about 60ml of antifreeze per year. Well that crack have opened now probably due to pressure and heat and i needed a new tank. Mechanick refused to cover my tank expense and i got aftermarket tank. After my order came i was like what the hell because it had ton of sharp edges from the mold it was made in i guess. I was worried how its going to seal and it ofc didnt. Here I am a year later leaking more and more every day and not knowing what to do. I tried doing everyting to that gasket and it just doesnt care and keeps on leaking. My air release valve on top of radiator (i dont know what its called in english but you get it i hope) started leaking also. Im just about to go to BMW dealer and just say fix it and give them the keys because nothing i do doesnt seem do make any difference.
I would apprechiate if i got some advice.
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Old 11-10-2017, 08:42 PM   #37
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Just found insanely small crack in part where expansion tank connects with radiator.. Thats probably explanation for everything
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