No Clutch Pressure

[Jcityracer]

So I've been a Member of this site for awhile and finally got ahold of my fist 318ti! arrived today. The previous owner said that it needed a clutch, but as the condition of the car (bought as a project) I'm guessing he didn't hear that from a shop. Anyways, I had acouple buddies who drove a 5-speed feel the clutch (I'm 17 and haven't had a manual) anyway, they said that it didn't even feel hooked up. So I looked up some stuff and that it is hydraulic system and the car was low on brake fluid. So I added it and nothing came from that. Anyone have any tips? would there be any resistance if the clutch went out? Left fresh cardboard under there and will report back tomorrow. P.s resistance doesn't change a bit when pumping clutch & The brake pad change light is on

[CirrusSR22]

If the clutch disc had worn out you would still have relatively normal clutch pressure. In other words, it wouldn't be totally limp like it seems to be.

Starting from cheapest and easiest - first try to bleed the clutch system of air. I kinda doubt this would solve your problem though as if air is in the hydraulic system, some failed component let the air in.

I'd next guess either your clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder has failed. I'd say this is most likely the problem and it can be repaired without removing the transmission.

Finally, something inside of the transmission bell housing may have failed. Such as the pressure plate, throw out bearing or clutch arm pivot.

[Jcityracer]

Originally Posted by CirrusSR22

If the clutch disc had worn out you would still have relatively normal clutch pressure. In other words, it wouldn't be totally limp like it seems to be.

Starting from cheapest and easiest - first try to bleed the clutch system of air. I kinda doubt this would solve your problem though as if air is in the hydraulic system, some failed component let the air in.

Thank you for the help! I'll try this and get back to you with what happens in a day or two

[Jcityracer]

Sorry, I've been busy with finals but I did have a coolant hose that came off. so that when I'd (try) to add fluid it would gush from the fire-wall above the transmission. anywho, got the intake manifold taken completely apart and got a new hose installed. BUT I will be doing the brake flush tomorrow hopefully and should get back to you with what part is bad. I'm hoping for a bad slave cylinder.

[Jcityracer]

Bad slave cylinder? Can you tell from looks?

[Jcityracer]

Okay so I'm under the car right now with the nipple off the slave cylinder and had a friend pump the clutch. it's gotten significantly siffer but there's no fluid coming from the bleeding nipple. Normal? about to hook up the hand pressurizer and see if we can get anything

Thanks,
Parker

[Jcityracer]

Okay so after getting the pressure in the clutch we tried bleeding the clutch and now it doesn't want to have fluid drip out and the pressurizer is doing squat. trying to firgure out how to get the pressure back to the clutch

[Jcityracer]

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=962513

Originally Posted by Bluebimma
Theres fluid on the ground...............cable? Nah, its hydraulic bro.

"You can bleed the slave by yourself, i have every single time, and thats before i had a power bleeder. If you have a bentley, just follow it precisely and you can bleed the slave without a problem.

To completely bleed the slave cylinder you have to do the following after using the pedal-pump or pressure bleeding methods:

1) Slowly pump the clutch pedal to build pressure to push the brake fluid through the line and fill the slave.
2) Unbolt the slave cylinder from the gearbox
3) Attach a tube from the bleeder screw to a small bottle
4) Hold the slave cylinder so that the bleeder screw is pointing straight up*
5) Open the bleeder screw
6) Push the rod/piston all the way in to the slave cylinder
6) While holding the rod/piston in, close the bleeder
7) Repeat steps #4-#6 two or three times or until its too hard to push in when the valve is closed
8) Ditch the tube and old fluid.
9) Bolt the slave cylinder back in place, be very careful that the tip of the rod lines up with the indentation on the fork
*Very important

At any point, do not slam on the clutch pedal while the slave it out of the gearbox, you will blow it apart...literally. Once bolted in, slowly depress the clutch to make sure that its not binding, seated properly and as precaution to not blowing it apart on first install. If the pedal is firm, then youre all good, if not, you need to repeat the bleeding procedure until firm. If it never gets firm, check for other leaks elsewhere.

If you have a power bleeder, now will be the time to do a brake fluid flush as well.

Make sure to top the brake fluid off."

Found this on bimmer fourms and am guessing this is what I need to do but I have no pressure now in the clutch so I'll try to see if I can get that back again.

Any input would be greatly appreciated

[BlackBMWs]

I used this procedure by Bluebimma and it worked great. Easiest bleed on a slave to date.

[Jcityracer]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

I used this procedure by Bluebimma and it worked great. Easiest bleed on a slave to date.

Great to know! Did you start out with no clutch pressure though?

Thank you,
Parker

[Jcityracer]

Okay so I added a lot more brae fluid, kept pumping the clutch and now I have a clutch again. Drove it in the drive and seems fine. Now for inspection

[BlackBMWs]

Originally Posted by Jcityracer

Great to know! Did you start out with no clutch pressure though?

Thank you,
Parker

Yes, as in my case I had just replaced the slave cylinder. Sorry for the late response.

[Lbcnu24]

anybody know the OEM part numbers of the pressure plate, throw out bearing and the clutch arm pivot? 1997 M44 318ti