How to:=- Fit a 1 series badge to a E36

[ipswich318ti]

How to:=- Fit a 1 series badge to a E36
I did this mod about a month plus back and people been asking how I did it, so I'm doing this little write up.

this mod will only work if you have a boot popper wired up and working. It will not work if you don't have one.

parts:=-
you need 1,2,3,4,5 and 10



tools:=-
Some thing to cut the boot away. I used a dermal multi tool
T20 torx for the new badge

The E36 badge is 89mm in diameter, which is the same diameter of the hole that is needed for the badge.
The boot is twin skinned; you need to cut away the outer skin. Make sure it is round and 89mm. do not make it bigger or egg shaped as it will fcuk it all up really.
Once you cut a way the outer skin to make the hole you should be left with this.

[ipswich318ti]

In the above pic you should be able to see the 2nd skin I was talking about.
Cutting the 2nd skin is no way as easy as the outer skin.
I made space for the cutter to get in there the best I could and cut as big hole as I could.

[ipswich318ti]

The badge is heeled to the boot buy the cage. Number 3 on the link.
You need to make sure that the cage can mount on to the outer skin very flat. The problem I had was some of the inner skin was stopping the cage. That's why there is such a big messy hole.

Once you made the outer hole the right size. A little bit tight is not a bad thing. It helps with keeping it in place when trying to mount the cage on to the back.
There should be 3 torx bolts on the back of the badge, loosen theses off as much as you can. Don't take them out it makes the fitting even harder.
Push the main badge in to the hole and get it all lined up and looking right. You don't want to be driving around with a wonky badge.
You need to get the cage and line up the torx bolts with the holes in the cage, once all lines up and throw the holes. Turn the cage and it should then lock on to the back of the badge. You can then do the bolts up.

Don't forget to put the o ring (2 in the link) on the back of the badge once it is fitted in the hole. If you do it the way it does not work. There is all ready a seal on the back of the badge to help stop the water going in to the boot.

That's it for fitting really. Don't think I left any thing out.
Once it's all done this is what you should be left with







For wiring up the badge to the popper, I'm still working on that. But thanx to JohnW who points out a relay that will help stop the badge from being on all the time. I'll sort that write up out later.

Any questions of any thing PM.
AxiosUK@hotmail.com

[John Firestone]

Originally Posted by ipswich318ti

For wiring up the badge to the popper, I'm still working on that. But thanx to JohnW who points out a relay that will help stop the badge from being on all the time. I'll sort that write up out later.

As I mentioned in my write up, I had to solve the same problem to keep the console, central locking switch from popping the trunk when the car is locked. Search for the word "theft", twice.

[L84THSKY]

If I didn't want to add a trunk release, but wanted the latch to lock and unlock with my car alarm, can that be done?

Originally Posted by John Firestone

As I mentioned in my write up, I had to solve the same problem to keep the console, central locking switch from popping the trunk when the car is locked. Search for the word "theft", twice.

[DustenT]

Originally Posted by L84THSKY

If I didn't want to add a trunk release, but wanted the latch to lock and unlock with my car alarm, can that be done?

Since that new latch and the existing latch are both mechanical, I would thing you'd need an actuator to pop the boot open.

[John Firestone]

Originally Posted by ipswich318ti

For wiring up the badge to the popper, I'm still working on that. But thanx to JohnW who points out a relay that will help stop the badge from being on all the time. I'll sort that write up out later.

As I now recall, BMW has already done in the Z3M coupe, exactly what you want to do in yours, using the car's existing ZKE and no other parts.

I don't know if your 325i has a ZKE or if the Z3M electric trunk button requires a ZKE with newer software than what is in yours.

[3DGE]

this is a very interesting, if any ti guys do this please tell me if my 95 will be able to do the same.

[318iS]

so its just a mechanical flap instead of a push button to open the boot ? ? ?


does it still lock with the central locking even tho the push button with the key hole is gone ? i imagine the actuator stays intact ?



interested in doing this... looks cool.....

[John Firestone]

If it is the part I have seen, the rear badge is just a big, floppy, tilt switch. Newer BMWs have electromechanical trunk releases. You would have to retrofit your own electromechanical actuator, couple it to the existing, mechanical trunk release, wire your retrofitted actuator to the floppy, badge switch (plus an electrical lockout) and have your actuator actually pop the trunk.

I think we are all singing different verses of the same song.

[318iS]

Originally Posted by John Firestone

If it is the part I have seen, the rear badge is just a big, floppy, tilt switch. Newer BMWs have electromechanical trunk releases. You would have to retrofit your own electromechanical actuator, couple it to the existing, mechanical trunk release, wire your retrofitted actuator to the floppy, badge switch (plus an electrical lockout) and have your actuator actually pop the trunk.

ah damn it...


sounds a bit complicated ? ? ?


im not as good as i should be with the ol' electrics...

[John Firestone]

If the other E36 ZKEs are like the Z3M coupe ZKE, you would only need to get power for your added actuator from the ZKE and then run:

• a wire from the rear badge switch to the glovebox area and splicing it to the ZKE
• a wire from the other side of the switch to your actuator
• and the other side of your actuator to ground.

Then, again, it could prove more complicated if your ZKE doesn't output the signal you are after.

[Philly]

great mod.. looks sweet!!!

totally off topic, but would that wing fit on the TI? anyone?

[L84THSKY]

Maybe I'm confused. All I would want is to have the same functions I have now, but with the roundel latch, instead of the push button. Can't the roundel latch be wired to stay locked when the car is locked, and releasable, by hand, when the car is not locked?

Originally Posted by DustenT

Since that new latch and the existing latch are both mechanical, I would thing you'd need an actuator to pop the boot open.

[DustenT]

Originally Posted by L84THSKY

Maybe I'm confused. All I would want is to have the same functions I have now, but with the roundel latch, instead of the push button. Can't the roundel latch be wired to stay locked when the car is locked, and releasable, by hand, when the car is not locked?

Are you saying that when you disarm your alarm the hatch doesn't unlock? Mine unlocks both doors and the hatch. I still have to manually push the chrome hatch release in to get it to open.