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Old 11-22-2003, 03:17 PM   #16
robcarync
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it hasnt happend to me yet....but it had happened to the previous owner. luckily for me he fixed it already and i didnt have to do anything for it...ive had the car like 7 montsh and nothing has gone wrong yet
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Old 02-14-2004, 07:53 PM   #17
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i just posted about this on another thread concerning this issue. uhhhhh if you want to see what i wrote, look it up there. im a lazy turd.
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Old 03-05-2004, 07:23 AM   #18
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I have a different prob,

My window went down will bounce out of the front track when I shut the door.

up and down is fine until it bounces then it goes all to hell.

After 4 different fixes on my own,
I am finally going to the dealer mon to have them look at. THe Tech understood what I was talking about even though the SA didn't.
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Old 03-05-2004, 07:53 AM   #19
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*Sigh* I'm finally breaking down and going to a BMW service dealer to fix it. Attempted the self fix to the degree of success for about 2 weeks, then the damn thing popped out again.

I theorize now that once the window falls off track and bends the regulator arm, even after you perform your "fix", when you slam the door too much, the regulator arm is still bent. The regulator arm is now pulling/pushing the bushing in the track off axis under tension, making it easy for it to pop back out.

The chilton's guide I bought says that you can drill the rivet out, replace the regulator and bolt it in, using an M6x10 bolt, washer and matching nut.

No reason why you can't take out the regulator, put it in a vice and straighten it properly, then bolt it back in! (?)

After toying around with the door for two weekends straight, I'm ready to pay to have it become someone else's problem. (so I can go back to THEM if it goes wrong again). (and also quit embarrassing myself at the drive through.......)


P.S. The mechanic smell is White Lithium Grease.
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Old 03-05-2004, 12:43 PM   #20
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This is really becoming a very common problem.
I have been lucky. I replaced the bushings last summer. The window arm does push out the inside panel a little.
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Old 03-06-2004, 06:21 AM   #21
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I replaced my bushing....2 days ago.

about 10 times in the last 4 months on the same door.....it's a PITA.
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Old 03-07-2004, 04:36 AM   #22
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Aaaah. *sigh of relief*.
Got the thing fixed. Feels so good to hit the auto lower switch without crossing your fingers. (although I'm casting a weary eye at the passenger side window now. I'll let you know that I paid just over $250 total to get the window fixed. That was the best deal I could come up with here in expensive Silicon Valley. While I have no comment on Labor, don't let any repair shop charge you too much more than 90 bucks for the new regulator, since that's what it costs currently (shipped).

I was quoted in upwards of $400 dollars twice by various shops in the area, ($200 dollar regulator in that!). So user beware!

I didn't ask him his method, but I am curious as to whether or not he put a new rivet into the new regulator, or if he used a bolt on method.. Good luck all. you jinxes!!!
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Old 03-07-2004, 07:06 AM   #23
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ok so my driver side window has broken twice in the past, and happened again tonight! wtf??? it was a warm night, and it fell off track. i had just installed a new regulator, and slider pieces. this is so annoying....
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Old 03-07-2004, 12:59 PM   #24
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I posted a very long message on this topic within the week at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmw318ti
I'm a wordy MF so it ain't short but I'll try to drop it here and see if it fits. My findings are as a first-timer who thought the window system sucked. There are lots of FAQs and tips on this and other sites that helped me. These are my additions to those:

First: When removing the door panel DON"T pry out the mirror switch with a screwdriver stuck between it and the door handle. Pull off the "joystick" button and pull from the slots inside the mirror switch housing without touching and damaging the fragile handle. Mine already had some damage so I was adamant there had to be a better way. This is only a problem on the ti with its unique gummi door handles.

Second: You'll need four M6x10mm bolts, nuts, and wave washers to replace the rivets that hold the original regulator in place. Install the top bolt from inside the door-shell cavity (nut on the outside) as clearances are quite tight to the regulator arm at that position. I found drilling out the rivets a royal pain. I even dragged out my compressor and my Snap-On air drill. But every rivet started spinning before I could get either the center drilled out completely or the head drilled flat. I ended up using a chisel and hammer to remove what was left. (Thought about the die-grinder but didn't want to litter the door with even smaller metal shavings.)

Third: There is supposed to be a fuzzy rubber window-channel liner at both the front and the back. Mine was missing the one at the rear. It's a $9 part that one dealer had in stock, which is always telling. BMW calls it a "window guide rail", p/n 51 32 1 960 413.

Fourth: Check for damage to the window tracks inside the door and for easy movement of the plastic slides in the tracks mounted to the glass. Best I can tell from the condition of my door, the slides had let loose at the ball socket and the regulator bound-up under the slide track, compressing and distorting the aluminum track making movement of the plastic slides very tight. Apparently the window went off track and bent the rear guide rail mounted inside the door, too, compressing that channel and distorting it so badly the window could do nothing but bind coming down, popping the clips again. This can also happen if the window is installed and operated when not properly seated in the front track. So check carefully to be sure the window is properly seated in the guide tracks and inside the rubber linings. With the regulator disconnected the glass should slide easily and smoothly through the tracks. If that's not the case, check the rear track for damage. Mine had apparently been this way for some time as the glass had worn a groove in the steel track with the rubber weatherstripping missing in action. All I can figure is that someone was in the door replacing the clips and threw out the rear track liner after not being able to reinstall it into the distorted track. The inside of the door cavity was littered with "hair-clips" from the plastic slides. The rear track is removed with one bolt accessed through the round rubber plug behind the door panel and the track slips underneath the upper window channel at the top of the door. I simply removed mine and peened it back into shape. Others have seen the welds broken and just replaced the track. Either way, make sure the glass slides smoothly before reconnecting the regulator. I probably could have gotten away with straightening my bent regulator arm rather than replacing the regulator once I figured out what caused the problem in the first place, but at $70 and since I had already drilled-out the rivets by that time. . . . .

Fifth: When snapping the ball connections of the regulator arms into the nylon slides, note that the rearward ball is longer than the front and will have more space between the slide and the arm even when installed properly. Conversely, the front ball is short and may look like it is all the way in the slide when compared to the rear one, but it is not. Use a large pliers to snap the front ball all the way into the slide and THEN insert the hair-clip keeper with a needle-nose plier. Many problems in these regulators seem to come from the front ball not being properly seated in the slide.

Sixth: Before you put the door panel back together, check the operation of the regulator while you can see it....slowly and a little bit at a time. The first time you hit full-closed position the motor may automatically drop down an inch or two and initialize itself to work properly the very next time. Don't do as I did and spend an hour trying to diagnose and fix the horrible noise caused by sloppy tolerances in the regulator when first coming off the full-closed position! It is apparently normal and will be rendered inaudible once the door lining is reinstalled. Have faith, you didn't do anything wrong!

I hope this helps.

-Phil
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Old 03-07-2004, 06:49 PM   #25
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Excellent. Two Thumbs up. If anybody wants to create this into a FAQ, I have a couple of pictures that can go along with this write-up. PM me or Email me.

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Old 03-07-2004, 09:43 PM   #26
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it should be a FAQ
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Old 03-09-2004, 05:39 AM   #27
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I've uploaded a picture of the smashed window track from my car, in case anyone's interested. Go to my profile and into my album. It's the only pic there.
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Old 08-06-2004, 12:07 AM   #28
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If the slide clips are broken there is a good chance the arms are bent. If you straighten it back it will just bend again. Best to replace regulator and clips. The door panels are not real sturdy. The less you mess with them the better off you are.
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Old 08-09-2004, 11:03 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwracefan
I have left and right window regulators that I removed from my 1999 ti race car. In perfect condition. $100.00 each with motors.
hey guy i would be int in taking both off ur hands if u still have em pm pls
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Old 08-10-2004, 02:55 AM   #30
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I have both regulators and glass that i will be takeing out in the next week let me know if his are gone. thanks Jeff 803-917-7863
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