Well....???

[wise67]

After swapping ecu chips today my 95 318ti wouldnt start(turned over and loud bang, thought it was just a misfire?). Did some minor double checks. Finally got it to start after about 30 sec of cranking it in 5 sec intervals. (had to have it jumped to start it everytime because of how long it took) Drove it around for about an hour(drove great), got home tried to start it, no start. Checked plugs and found a bunch of oil in Cyl 3?(3rd from the firewall) Swapped to ngk gapped at 32. Cleaned all the oil up. Jumped it. Now there is a knock. No cel light. Oil light came on for a few seconds upon startup with new plugs. Oil level OK. Any guesses on what it could be? worn cyl wall? worn valve seat? Going to pull the valve cover off and take a look tomorrow. will post pics. Worst case? (Cel light flashed when turning over before startup)

[bmwconnect]

profile gaskets

#4 and #5

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...08&hg=11&fg=15

[Junk]

Best to check the cel code. If it flashed while turning over, perhaps something with the crank or cam sensors? idk, hope the knock is something minor! . You did tighten the spark plug down right?

I think you mean cylinder 2 has the oil in it. (1-4 front to back) Don't disconnect the battery in case it doesn't start again, if it was a crank/cam sensor and you clear the code, it won't show up again.

[wise67]

ya i only have a obd2 scanner for my audi so i guess ill have to go pick one up, but would bad profile gaskets cause it to not want to start?

[bmwconnect]

Bad profile gasket wont stop the car from starting but oil filling up in the spark plug chamber can cause all sorts of funny things like hard starts and misfires.... You have OBD1 so a OBD2 scanner will be useless for you ... just do the stomp test and pull the codes

Also you mentioned you had to have your car jump started after only 30 seconds of trying to turn over the engine witch means your battery is no good or the alternator is failing

Best of luck~!

[wise67]

fault code 1216 throttle position sensor....uggg

[wise67]

UPDATE: Started up the car today (video link at bottom) had a knock on cylc 2 code. Drove it(no notice of any power loss). code was gone. (got 1555 after the drive). Replaced tps valve cover gasket and profile gaskets today as well. When i replaced the plugs before i had done them one at a time to ensure that i didnt mess up the wires. Today i had them all off so i marked them before removal. When i was done i noticed the wires were actually marked (duh) but thought that since i had marked them i might as well put them back in as i did. 3 and 4 were switched. Car started but bogged out(hope i didnt ruin anything) swapped them out. Car still hesitates to start but is starting without jump and it only takes about 10 sec to start the car now and starts on a regular basis. When i jumped it (other battery has less starting amps) and had my buddy rev his car my car would start the second or third time i tried. After it starts it runs like a champ. Im still getting the blinking CEL (i know on audis its misfire when it happens, same on bmw's?)upon startup which is probably the reason its taking so long to start. Why isnt it throwing another code (storing it) for a cyl misfire? What should i be checking for next? I suspect cyl 2 because of the knock sensor and looks like a little detonation on the plug. Clean fuel injectors? new battery? pull alternator and have it tested? inline fuel filter? coil?


Thanks for all the help guys.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_VUxCEVJt8

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Wow that is odd. I have not seen anything like that before. I would start with making sure all grounds are good. Has it rained or snowed a lot then the snow melted lately? Maybe water got in the DME compartment?

That CEL is all over the place like the DME is have a spasm or something

[wise67]

ya i check the two main grounds on the passenger side but im gonna have to get a bit more involved i guess...Its just weird how its fine when it starts up. Its possible i shorted the DME when i swapped chips...I havent seen a CEL blink that fast for a misfire either...

Thanks.

[bmwconnect]

its not the fact that you swapped chips but rather the fact that the battery was disconnected( nothing wrong with that though) witch resets the DME and in a lot of cases when this is done the DME go's into a sensitive mode as it trys to relearn various input voltages from sensors and as a result underlying problems show up witch should not be ignored... In your case its very hard pin point the exact problem

all the best

[wise67]

wasnt saying the chip swapping itself but opening the ECU*

Originally Posted by bmwconnect

its not the fact that you swapped chips but rather the fact that the battery was disconnected( nothing wrong with that though) witch resets the DME and in a lot of cases when this is done the DME go's into a sensitive mode as it trys to relearn various input voltages from sensors and as a result underlying problems show up witch should not be ignored... In your case its very hard pin point the exact problem

all the best

[bmwconnect]

Originally Posted by wise67

wasnt saying the chip swapping itself but opening the ECU*

Chances are one in a million you will produce a static charge that would damage the DME or CHIP for that matter

[wise67]

Originally Posted by bmwconnect

Chances are one in a million you will produce a static charge that would damage the DME or CHIP for that matter

makes me feel a little better...was about to spend 100 for a used DME off ebay...thanks!

[wise67]

Is it possible that the DME isnt sitting in the craddle properly and have a ground out there? Im just amazed how it starts like **** but runs like a champ...i can feel all the power out of the new chip installed..

[bmwconnect]

its possible that you have fuel draining back into the tank instead of holding pressure after you turn the car off or you have a leaking injector