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Old 12-23-2011, 08:13 PM   #31
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alright then, the crankase valve is next right after I seafoam her today, thanks for the help I will update after i do all of this
-zach
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:17 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by familytruckster View Post
Have you replaced all of the vacuum lines? The crankcase valve?

Gotten a chance to run codes?


That tube that trixzta is talking about is not on your car. That started in 1997. Pull the front 02 sensor and see if that helps. That will reduce the backpressure. You could also have a shop check the backpressure.
I was wondering where this 02 sensor is, is it on the cat or somewhere else?? Also when i start it up and the engine is cold the rpms struggle to rise when i hit the gas and it sounds like the cat is choking, it sounds choppy, i will post a vid later of the noise
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:42 PM   #33
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Hey guys, alright so i got my pcv valve and im going to replace it, i took off the crankcase hose and there is this yellow foamy oily kind of stuff in there, is this supposed to be there?? what is it?? and also that valve is a bitch to get off any tips??
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:47 PM   #34
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Here are some pics of the foamy stuff im talking about
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:30 PM   #35
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Oil? Would be expected if the valve is bad
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:38 PM   #36
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Alright got the old pcv off and put the new one on you can see that the old one is all gummed up
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:45 PM   #37
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Planksta, Take a flashight and shine it down in the valve cover through the oil cap hole. If you see that foamy stuff on your cams and such, you're in trouble.The port on the back of the valve cover that the CCV hose attaches to commonly gets gunked and clogged up. Whenever you replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals, I recommend cleaning it out while you have the valve cover off.
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:47 PM   #38
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started the car with the new valve on and it idles higher but the car still dies when i go to hit the gas right away, still have to let it sit for a while before i can drive it, and also a couple of days ago i went to the store shut the car off came back out and it would not start, waited there for a bit and then it started?? i have no idea, and i took a clip of what the car sounds like when it starts up and struggles to get through the rpms
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8TyV...ature=youtu.be
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:50 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Planksta, Take a flashight and shine it down in the valve cover through the oil cap hole. If you see that foamy stuff on your cams and such, you're in trouble.The port on the back of the valve cover that the CCV hose attaches to commonly gets gunked and clogged up. Whenever you replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals, I recommend cleaning it out while you have the valve cover off.
Alright ill check in a little, i took a clip of what it sounds like when i first start the car up and rev it, its very choppy and struggles to make it up past 2000rpms, thanks
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:56 PM   #40
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Also check the dipstick and the underside of the oil cap. "Chocolate milk" on either one of these things is usually a sign of a blown head gasket. Best way to find out is by performing a cylinder leak down check. You can purchase a kit at pep boys or autozone for 30-40 bucks.
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:08 PM   #41
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Planksta, where in Lancaster are you?
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:14 PM   #42
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Planksta, where in Lancaster are you?
Like 5 mins from park city, Itd be nice to meet up sometime like during this week and see if you could help
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:41 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by cooljess76 View Post
Also check the dipstick and the underside of the oil cap. "Chocolate milk" on either one of these things is usually a sign of a blown head gasket. Best way to find out is by performing a cylinder leak down check. You can purchase a kit at pep boys or autozone for 30-40 bucks.
Soo i looked under the oil cap and the yellowish oily stuff was there, then checked the dipstick and it looked like the picture below not sure if thats what you were talking bout by chocolate milk Jess so i took some pics, oh and i didnt take the valve cover off to replace the pcv i just reached at those allen bolts blinded haha and saved a bit of work
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:50 PM   #44
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Sorry for the confusion, I know you don't need to remove the valve cover to replace the CCV, I was just saying that if/when you replace the valve cover gasket, you should clean that orifice as it often gets clogged up.

Well it looks as though you have at least a little moisture in your engine which isn't a good thing. The way your car was sounding in the video, I wouldn't recommend driving it like that. I highly recommend performing a cylinder leakdown test. This way you're not chasing your tail for nothing. If everything checks out good, after the rough idle problem is fixed, run seafoam in the oil for a few miles and then do an oil change.
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:00 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljess76 View Post
Sorry for the confusion, I know you don't need to remove the valve cover to replace the CCV, I was just saying that if/when you replace the valve cover gasket, you should clean that orifice as it often gets clogged up.

Well it looks as though you have at least a little moisture in your engine which isn't a good thing. The way your car was sounding in the video, I wouldn't recommend driving it like that. I highly recommend performing a cylinder leakdown test. This way you're not chasing your tail for nothing. If everything checks out good, after the rough idle problem is fixed, run seafoam in the oil for a few miles and then do an oil change.
Right I gotcha now, yea my next step is the leakdown test, then onto the seafoam in the oil and ill prob run it through the gas while I'm at it since i already put it through the brake booster, and yea it sounds horrible when the car starts, the idle really isn't bad I pretty much solved that but the loss of power and start ups are the problems still present, and I hardly drive it cause its not reliable it kills me to see her sit in the drive way, anyway thanks Jesse
-zach
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