Custom M44 Eaton Supercharger Build-- Long Overdue

[TheDude]

That is killer. Your gauges look BA at night. I hope it doesn't slip, I didn't really think I would ever have the supercharger finished when I bought the clutch kit. Any problems running a 9lber?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by TheDude

That is killer. Your gauges look BA at night. I hope it doesn't slip, I didn't really think I would ever have the supercharger finished when I bought the clutch kit. Any problems running a 9lber?

No problems with the 9# flywheel, 100% no bad effects just faster rev. Stock Flywheel is like 21 or 23 or 29 pound, can't remember. The rule is every 1 pound of any rotating mass removed is the same as removing 15 pound off the car. This rule includes rims, tires, crank or anything that spins.

It was like removing a 200 pound passenger when I went with the light flywheel

[TheDude]

Wow, good to know. I think the kit i bought is either 15-14 pounds, which by itself is wayyy lighter than the m44 stocker, i think it was 28lbs.

I decided on the chromoly steel one just out of "potential" durability. I have not used the AC with my flywheel though, because i recently snapped the threaded tab off the condenser bracket. Any issues with using LTW flywheel +AC? Rattle or slip?

[TheDude]

Here is a small update, I worked on the Throttle body plate adapter this morning, its almost ready for welding. Ill probably have it done tomorrow morning (i usually work on the car in the early morning before i head to the gym.)

This is the Plate after initial drilling


Here it is with the final shape cut into it and deburred/round the edge.


Then i rummaged around the garage and found some left over 2.5" crush bent exhaust pipe that i cut at a drastic angle to reach the pipe going to the supercharger inlet.


The plate looks really long, but i plan on bending part of the bottom to connect with the airbox anchor tabs that are in the engine bay to assist in holding the throttle in place. Ill add another picture tomorrow to show how its all connected.

[TheDude]

Ok finally had some time to work on the car. Finished with the throttle adapter and installed it, linked the gas pedal and wired up the MAF, TPS, and ICV.





After the throttle, i finished the charge pipes using an aftermarket Ebay 2.5" intercooler pipe kit and my Intercooler is a CX Racing, surprising quality for both kits. I chose Black charge pipes so the engine bay looks somewhat stock.

Then i took some time zip tying wires and hoses. I used some tin snips and clipped some plastic off of the old Fresh air pipe cover (the one over the Fan Shroud) Once clipped, it fit nicely in the engine bay and covers some space giving an oem look.

[TheDude]

So, now that the bulk of the work is done, i just have to run through my checklist and make sure im not forgetting anything prior to start up, and making sure the charge pipes are all securely fashioned.

Now for the bad....... I went to close the hood and the Main Air intake pipe is sitting about 0.5"-0.75" too high for the hood to close "Correctly". It will close with enough force, but you can tell looking at the fenders that its not correct.

So the intake pipe going to the Supercharger is connected using the Stock Mercedes pipe which was cut, ground down and pointing up, then i shoved a 90 degree Silicone elbow pipe on that and connected the air intake pipe.

I may be able to cut a little off of the silicone elbow to lower the pipe, but i don't know how effective that will be.

What kind of thoughts or suggestions do y'all have on cutting a square out of the hood and using a Cowl Scoop (Closed of course, like the E90 M3) more of a bump on the hood. I will be repainting the car this summer, so the paint isn't a problem. Let me know your thoughts!

[BlackBMWs]

You are The Dude! Nice build!

[TheDude]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

You are The Dude! Nice build!

Thanks! It was a fun project, I should have it started this weekend. I am a little wary on starting it without an AFR-Controller, but I may crank up the RRFPR dial and see how it turns over and runs.

The Hood is still concerning me, since the pipes are all together and I have everything fitting, I am scared to modify anything.

Maybe ill post something in the Bodywork section to get some ideas for Hood modifications that won't turn my car into a Civic....

[BlackBMWs]

Experiment with a spare E36 sedan hood till you get what you want then modify your long term hood.


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[TheDude]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

Experiment with a spare E36 sedan hood till you get what you want then modify your long term hood.


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Thats not a bad plan, I bet i can get a hood on CL for around $50, the 4dr hoods are never wanted.....
What do you guys think of this? I can tape the area off, cut in and then epoxy and rivet this down and blend it in with bondo. I just don't want it to look like a muscle car hood... but 2.5" tall is pretty conservative. A 1"-1.5" would be be better, but i haven't been able to find one that small....yet.

[TheDude]

Or this.....$38.00
Description:
Overall Dimensions: 24 " L x 23" W x 1.5 " H
Dimensions include 1" flange.
Mesh grill comes pre-installed as shown in picture.
Material: hand laid fiberglass with blue surface gelcoat.

I think this might be the winner.

[roadrash]

Personally, I'd do everything possible to avoid altering the hood. If you have any kind of bump or vent, you'll lose the element of surprise because people will know that there's something "different" about your engine. But, that's just me.

[TheDude]

Originally Posted by roadrash

Personally, I'd do everything possible to avoid altering the hood. If you have any kind of bump or vent, you'll lose the element of surprise because people will know that there's something "different" about your engine. But, that's just me.

I know, the Sleeper aspect is a definite appeal.....especially to our trunk impaired 4 cylinders, but I think I may go with the "Euro" one and reverse it into a Cowl Scoop, so the scoops grill will be aimed at the windshield, and if i don't like it; then ill go buy another hood and readjust the intake and anything else preventing the hood to close, then go to paint. Thanks for the input guys, keep it coming!

[TheDude]

Hey guys, update, i finally had enough money to go buy a battery and start the beast up. started no problem and runs but its really rough at idle.

no check engine lights, so i got out of the car while it was running and found that at idle all of my 90* silicone couplers were being vacuumed (sucked inward) i think there may be a problem with the bypass valve.

the bypass i bought years ago when i was planning everything was an ebay Forge knock off, it came with no paperwork, but i was able to find the same unit online. Its a nice unit, but the springs it comes i believe may be too hard for my boost levels. it has an option for either:

Yellow - 15-23 PSI
Blue - 23-30 PSI
Red - 30 + PSI

So i ordered a spring kit off of forges website which offers the same 3 springs, but it also has a 4th spring which has a range of 5-15 PSI.

Question is, do you guys think this will fix the vacuum on the couplers? I know i am not pushing 15+ psi so the spring should be changed anyway. I am probably in the neighborhood of 5-8 psi.

[EPP]

Find an old Eclipse/Laser/Talon or even an old Shadow hood damaged in the junk yard w/ the "power dome" - raised area on passenger side to clear the dual overhead cam (4G63) engine. Cut the dome out and install it like you were going to do the scoop. Unless its a BMW owner, most people won't realize it's not stock! Just a thought