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Old 02-12-2012, 05:02 PM   #1
hk_e46
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Default E46 318(M43) Oil Housing Gasket - Supplementary Info

Hi guys,

Greetings !
This is my first post here, I am a bimmer owner from Hong Kong with a E46 318ci (4 cylinder M43Tu Engine, EU Phase2 emission, don't have an Air Pump)

I was inspired and guided by this thread
"Cooling System Rebuild. PICS!" by member "CirrusSR22"
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18066

I would like to specially thank you so much to "CirrusSR22" becuase i did exactly the same problem as he does and by following his detailed DIY with pics, i have sucessfully done my cooling system overhual on my car without need to tow to garage and save a lots money and TIME!

Please excuse me since english isn't my mother language (poor writing english)

And i've done the Oil Housing Gasket diy today by inspired by this thread too!
Thank You so much.
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20854

I would like to share the supplementary info on Engine Oil Housing Gasket DIY with a M43 Engine

The procedure is very similar to M44, besides:
1. lucky i haven't snap the bolt(i've been warned), it comes of easily
2. The Oil pump housing on M43 is aluminum alloy, a torque wrench IS PREFERED!
3. don't let the oil drip to the screw hole , will lead to unproper torque of the six M8 bolts.
4. Cover up the crankshaft pulley(vibration damper) and steerling pump pulley with plastic bag so engine oil don't containment the pulley(drive belt slippery)
5. clean as much as you can on the surface of the gasket for a leak proof in the future.

My car has done 194,000km. These is the 2nd piece of oil housing gasket(it leaked before at 100,000km)

Removing the vacum hose


another vacum hose


give some "support" to the:
1) alternator mounts with steering pump (heavy, don't stress the steer hose)
2) steerling fuild container


Red color indicates leakage area, the big red arrows is where the non-return valve O-ring die, you won't notice it until you see a oil stain in your garage floor. it can't been visually inspected because space is tight unless you have a dentist small mirror.

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Old 02-12-2012, 06:05 PM   #2
hk_e46
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sorry i have to start a "reply", i have no idea how to upload more than 5pics at a time.

the oil pump casing look very much the same.



I hand tightgen up the bottom 2 bolts, and gently push the upper part of the housing towards the engine. After that i tighen up the bolts, some say 22nm and some other say 25nm, i couldn't figure out the correct torque and i tend to go with a lower one 15nm, i was too worry i will over torque the bolts(i don't want it snapped, sure i don't have the technique to remove snapped bolts)



Here is the gasket and the o-ring, the o-rings has loose its flexibility, it broke why i pry it out from non-return valve. And i had found 2 additional cracks from the green color gasket. I have brought a grey color gasket and the material looks like a piece of paper instead of the green one(it feels hardern than the grey paper)


I find this engine degreaser is very good, remove all those leaky oil even when the engine is cold!



While rest of the procedure are the same.

I know this forum is mainly E36 + compact, but i find many useful information about 4 cylinders engine ! thank you all members here !
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Last edited by hk_e46; 02-12-2012 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:24 PM   #3
hk_e46
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Here is the new "grey color" gasket. the material feels like a piece of paper(better or will it leak faster?)

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Old 02-12-2012, 06:52 PM   #4
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Wow good description of everything I am getting ready to do mine
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:18 PM   #5
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Thanks for all the pictures and information!
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Old 02-06-2019, 02:56 PM   #6
limitedslipp
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can anyone confirm the torques spec for the bolts that hold the oil filter housing on to the block? are they 22nm? tia
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