auto will not downshift to 1st when stopping

[BlackMagic]

auto will not downshift to 1st when stopping

Any advice?

[BlackMagic]

Tranny was low a quart and a half. Will drive it to see if that fixes it.

[thomas88162]

In my experience, the car usually does stay in second as long as it is on level ground. Now if it was in something higher than second I would say something is wrong. Obviously it was a bit low on fluid though, so you may be onto something.

[DaRvDrUmS]

How many miles on the tranny?

[BlackMagic]

Turns out it was low on fluid.

[thomas88162]

Originally Posted by BlackMagic

Turns out it was low on fluid.

I am glad to hear that the problem seems to be fixed, but you might want to find out why your fluid was low. Automatic transmission fluid isn't supposed to be consumed by anything, so you may have a leak somewhere.

[R111S]

Thanks for posting your low trans fluid info BlackMagic. I had replaced the Auto Trans Fluid and Filter on my '97 318ti @95K Miles back in SEP2008. I refilled it with Redline D4-ATF.

Now here it is DEC2013 @159K Miles and it was having the same symptoms as yours. I had recently made a ~2200 Mile trip at mostly expressway speeds (and lots of passing slower traffic) and I suspect this may have pressurized the Transmission such that some of the fluid leaked out past the pan gaskets? At first I thought it might be a dirty electrical ground (it's located behind and inboard of the RH Strut Tower) to the Transmission Control but cleaning it up didn't help.

So after reading your post I added ~1 Quart of Redline D4-ATF and now there's no more 1st gear engagement problems at stop signs.

[R111S]

Notes from my MSWord Logfile:

22FEB2014 - @160,781 Miles the Transmission Cooler Lines are obviously leaking at the rubber hose sections near the Radiator and again I had to add ~1 Quart of Redline D4-ATF to the Transmission due to sluggish shifting into 1st gear when rolling up to a stop. I then went for a short test drive and the Transmission shifted normally. I ordered new Transmission Cooler Lines (2 ea.) with new O-Ring Seals (4 ea.) from Pelican Parts – Total cost including shipping: $344.50.

23MAR2014 - @161,652 Miles I replaced the leaking Transmission Cooler Lines. I used 4 new O-Ring Seals and Ty-Wrapped the Lines to what was left of the two broken Routing Clamps. I refilled the Transmission Sump with ~1 Quart of Redline D4-ATF. A short test drive confirmed there are no leaks and the Transmission shifts smoothly.

These lines were somewhat difficult to remove/install. I cut open a 19mm Box-end Wrench (used a Diamond Saw) in order to unscrew/rescrew the Lines where they connect to the Transmission Ports – a 19mm Crow-Foot would not fit in the tight confines of the rearmost line fitting. Fishing the lines in/out of the maze of frontend components was a challenge – had to extract/install them from the back (takes photos before you start). Remove short line first then long line second. Install long line first then short line second. Rotating (screwing?) the lines helped snake them through. Make rear connections first, then front. I also had to remove the “Crossover” Bar (BMW P/N: 51-71-8-135-880) to allow the Lines to drop out.

Engaging the threads of the rearmost fitting (long line) into the Transmission housing port was difficult to get correct due to tight space constraints/correct positioning...be very careful and pray to God for help!...cuz if you ruin the threads of the Transmission Port...you'll be suddenly less wealthy.

BMW Part Number List:
17-21-1-742-636 (2 ea. O-Rings-Radiator)
17-22-1-439-747 (Inlet Line)
17-22-1-439-748 (Outlet Line)
17-21-1-742-636 (2 ea. O-Rings-Trans)

[R111S]

More MSWord Logfile notes after replacing the leaking Transmission Cooler:

05APR2014 – The Transmission Cooler is leaking Transmission Fluid near where it connects to the Transmission Cooler Lines. It must have been damaged when the front bumper straddled a Cement Parking Block last summer. I ordered a new Transmission Cooler (BMW P/N: 17-20-1-728-770) from www.bimmerparts.com for $170.27 including shipping. I’ll keep the old one and get it repaired for a spare in case the new one is ever damaged.

12APR2014 - @162,131 Miles I installed the new Transmission Cooler. I noted only one of the 4 mounting screws (one of the upper two) were holding the old Transmission Cooler in place. I found one screw wedged between the Transmission Cooler and the Radiator but the bottom two screws were missing. Fortunately this wedged screw didn’t cut a hole into either the Radiator nor the Transmission Cooler. I used the two screws to secure the top two mount holes and used a substitute screw in one of the two bottom mount holes. I left the 4th mount hole screw-less due to difficult reach between the two lines.

I did not remove the Radiator nor Hoses nor drain it but only lifted it up and back enough to provide clearance to slide out/in the Transmission Cooler from the bottom. The Transmission Cooler Lines resisted being inserted into the new Transmission Cooler Ports. I assume this is on purpose to make a tight fit? I slowly turned the threaded securing Bolt to push the lines into the Ports.

I refilled the Transmission with Redline D4-ATF. A short test drive shows the Transmission shifts smoothly and doesn’t hesitate to downshift at Stops. I’ll keep monitoring for leaks.