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Old 07-04-2009, 04:53 PM   #16
hotmilk400
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i uninstalled and reinstalled my bimmer radio like a million times and the worse that happened is i messed up the little clock next to it (it lost its coding, but i jsut bouight a cheap euro clock for like $20)

btw, the12volt is the sickest place ever.. i use to help a million people there with anything from radio installs to aftermarket alarm/door locks.

a nice place, but it was slow there awhile ago.


anyway.. do you have a complete wireing diagram?

probally not if you are asking questions.

anyway.. NOTHING WILL EFFECT YOUR CAR. the security is not tied into the radio for years 95 - 98

well, it is, but what happeneds is that your radio will NOT work after you remove it, but the car will work fine.
the radio locks up so you can never use it with a differnt car, and needs to be reprogramed to use it again. aftermarket is fine, dont worrie

anyway, if you need color codes, let me know

also, the 6 speaker systems , 95 - 98:
the telephone wire is white/brown
the cd changer is Yellow

the 10 speaker setup is differt for the 98, but let me know if you need it. i am gussing that is what u need since the CD player is tied into the cd changer (i know because i have a 98 with a 10 speaker system)

the color codes for the cd changer on a 98 with 10 speakers are
telephone Black
the cd changer has a bunch of colors.

ANYWAY, for a 98 10 speaker system , there IS AN AMP IN THE TRUNK, FOR THIS RADIO, you really should remove this amp and rewire your car to not use it. or, do liek me and buy an nice aftermarket amp and mount it to the back of the seat.

the speakers in a 10 speaker system is crazy since there are 10 speakers, and thats alot of work for a HU ... it wont be loud without an amp.
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Old 07-04-2009, 05:22 PM   #17
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what type of amp do you have? i have a connect in bestbuy and idk what amp to get.. (got my speakers and hu already)..

i want to get it installed sometime next week because i can't listen to the radio no more.
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:01 PM   #18
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well, the amp you need is just any 4 channel amp.

you want something with low wattage and high DB.

i am selling an amp if you are interested, but i can give you a heads up on what to look for. the connection you have at best buy better work there so they can get a sick associates discount.. haha.. otherwise, go to ebay.

the first thing you want is a name-brand amp. anything else will sound like ****, blow your speakers, and/or not be loud at all.

the brand amps you wanna look at are:

Alphasonik
Alpine
Audiobahn (for subs)
Bazooka
Bose
Clarion
Crossfire (personal fav)
Crunch
Dual
Infinity
JBL
JL audio
JVC
Kenwood
Kicker
Optimus
Pioneer (some of the high end stuff is okay)
Rockford Fosgate
Sony
Swiss audio (rare, simple, but sound good)

there are a few others, those are just the ones that i know off hand.

what you want is a nice 4 or 6 channel amp with anything over 100 DB, and a wattage of less then 75 watts RMS (really should be like 50 watts rms or less) but that gets hard to find, and very expensive.

the sony amp i have for sale was $350 new, but is 30 watts RMS per channel at 6 channels. and the amp it replaced was a crossfire amp at 35 watts per channel at 4 channels. both with over 100 DB. (and so loud, it would turn heads. haha, seriously, you can hear my car over 4 blocks away, and thats is not just the sub that you hear)

for your speakers, you need an amp that will preform, if it does not have MORE THEN 95 DB, it is JUNKKKKKK. if it has more then 75 watts RMS, it will BLOW YOUR SPEAKERS.

watts mean nothing when you want a loud system. DB is how loud that amp is. what happeneds is that when you shop amps, you see 1000 watt amps, with 80 DB.. meaning, it needs to push 1000 watts before it is loud. but, instead, if you would buy a 250 watt amp with a DB of 100, it will be jsut as loud, and you will never blow your speaker.

the same is true for a 4/6 channel amp. you need something that will be loud, and not break your speakers.. a 35 watt amp can be plaied as loud as you want and it will NEVER break your speakers, but if it has a DB of less then 95, it will not be loud.

its kinda easy to figure out once you work with amps for awhile, but remember, all you want is something that is 100 db, and around 50 watts per channel RMS or less, max watts mean nothing. for a sub amp, you want something that is 95 DB or more, and you match the wattage with your sub. like, my alpine type r sub is 250watts rms, and my bazooka amp is 300 watts RMS. well, i turned down the power half way to protect it. its pushing a max of 225 watts rms so it will never blow the sub nomatter how loud i push that sub. that poor little sub shakes my car BETTER THEN MY LAST SPEAKER, which was a 1000 watt 12 inch POS with a 1000 watt POS amp.. you need quality.. haha..
also, high watt amps cost a **** MORE to install.. you need special wire, and sometimes need to upgrade the alternator..

FOR SUBS, i would ONLY WORK WITH ALPINE TYPE R SUBS, or HIGHER grade.. i have NEVER HAD a better sub. kicker is also a great sub. but nothing else besides a few expensive ones are worth its weight in scrap metal.



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Old 07-05-2009, 05:29 AM   #19
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it was a newer BMW I was talking about that got disabled, I wasn't sure it the E36 was the same way or not
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiFreak View Post
it was a newer BMW I was talking about that got disabled, I wasn't sure it the E36 was the same way or not
No worries, keeping me honest, and on my toes!

So installed the unit, the sound seems a little washed, and I can't get the radio to play anything but lovely Maryland static. I think the lil e'ffer disconnected while pressing the unit in. DANGIT!
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Old 07-05-2009, 05:34 PM   #21
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that's possible, when I got my car back from the shop that installed the headunit the thing that plays my iPod didn't work, turns out the cord popped out while the guy was trying to squeeze the head unit in
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Old 07-05-2009, 06:59 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiFreak View Post
that's possible, when I got my car back from the shop that installed the headunit the thing that plays my iPod didn't work, turns out the cord popped out while the guy was trying to squeeze the head unit in
Squeeze is a nice way of saying shove the lil' @$!$!#% back in. Ah, it fits---perfect!
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:56 PM   #23
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I disconnected and reconnected the headunit---checked and everything is coming in clean and clear now. I don't know what was up before---and HD sounds great!
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:50 AM   #24
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pictures? i still haven't installed my audio yet.. i think i want a different headunit.. maybe a touchscreen..
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:12 AM   #25
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Default New Stereo Wiring - Blue Wire

Quote:
Originally Posted by Times View Post
WAT?!

The small white female connection under the "factory standard plug" that the harness connects to is the "BWM pre-wired trunk disk changer"? Is that what you're talking about?
That is the changer cable. And just a FYI. The blue/white from the head connects to the BMW Blue wire. This powers the BMW amp which if not supplied power from the Blue wire your new head unit will not work.
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