Rear suspension uneven

[paul somlo]

I was wondering what was happening. I'm looking forward to hearing how this turns out.

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by paul somlo

I was wondering what was happening. I'm looking forward to hearing how this turns out.

My temporary fix on the rear sub-frame bushing is not holding up.
I may need to park the car and start dropping the sub-frame soon.
I will keep you posted.

[bazar01]

I decided that I will use stock rubber bushings.
This will allow me to remove old bushings and install new bushings without dropping the subframe.
Removing the old bushing is not going to be a problem I believe.
The old bushing can be heated to pull it out easier.

Then the new bushings can be installed using a floor jack or hydraulic bottle jack to push it into the subframe mount.

Anybody knows what was the special lubricant to use that dries up and hold the bushing in place?

[BlackBMWs]

on my E39 rear subframe bushings, I used dishwashing soap. Used successfully on 3 E39s, no issues, worked well.

[bazar01]

Thanks for the reply.

I searched here and found the lubricant for rubber bushings.
It is called P80 lubricant.

[paul somlo]

Welcome back Bazar.

To remove the old bushings, you'll have to heat the heck out of them, to the point where you smell burning rubber - they're in there pretty good.

I tried using a jack for the install; even with lubricant, all I succeeded in doing was raising the entire back end of the vehicle. It takes a lot of force to get the stock bushing in. If you're working on the MaxJax, be aware that the vehicle may tilt.

Yes, P80 is the right stuff. It's what I used, and I do think that it's more slippery than the alternatives and it stays slippery longer. I don't think that any retailers carry it though. I got mine by going direct and ordering free samples. You can purchase it direct, but you'll be getting a lot more than you can use. As an alternative, you might try the stuff that tire installers use on beads, something like Ru-Glyde, readily available at the auto stores.

Should be nice working weather down there - looking forward to your updates.

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by paul somlo

Welcome back Bazar.


I tried using a jack for the install; even with lubricant, all I succeeded in doing was raising the entire back end of the vehicle. It takes a lot of force to get the stock bushing in. If you're working on the MaxJax, be aware that the vehicle may tilt.

Yes, P80 is the right stuff. It's what I used, and I do think that it's more slippery than the alternatives and it stays slippery longer. I don't think that any retailers carry it though. I got mine by going direct and ordering free samples. You can purchase it direct, but you'll be getting a lot more than you can use. As an alternative, you might try the stuff that tire installers use on beads, something like Ru-Glyde, readily available at the auto stores.

Should be nice working weather down there - looking forward to your updates.

Ha.
Did you get the new bushing in with a jack or did you something else like a pusher tool?
I will lower the car close to the ground when I jack the bushing up into the subframe.

I requested for a sample of the P80 lube from the supplier. Should be here before next weekend.

[bazar01]

double post

[paul somlo]

The car is just too light, the jack didn't work at all. All I succeeded in doing was raising the vehicle. If you look at post #14 in this thread, you'll see a picture of a puller using 1/2" threaded rod, some pieces of wood, and part of a greenlee chassis punch. Keep in mind that I had the subframe out and had complete access to the top, so as to get the threaded rod through. In post #15, there's a link to a tool which claims that you can install the bushings without subframe removal. I think someone in the community may have that tool for rent.

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by paul somlo

The car is just too light, the jack didn't work at all. All I succeeded in doing was raising the vehicle. If you look at post #14 in this thread, you'll see a picture of a puller using 1/2" threaded rod, some pieces of wood, and part of a greenlee chassis punch. Keep in mind that I had the subframe out and had complete access to the top, so as to get the threaded rod through. In post #15, there's a link to a tool which claims that you can install the bushings without subframe removal. I think someone in the community may have that tool for rent.

Dang. I guess I will need 4 biggest losers inside the car.
If I can't find them within the neighborhood, I will have to come up with a long jaw puller then.

[DataTraveler]

Is that Georgia USA or the other one? If it's Georgia, US... finding a couple hefty folks won't be a problem

[paul somlo]

Long jaw puller might work if you can keep the arms engaged. I envision something like this, made for control arm bushing R&R, if you're not going to drop the subframe enough to clear the mounting stud:
You'll need some clearance around the top, because I think the metal jacket on the bushing protrudes.

It's possible that if you freeze the bushing first, it may contract to the point where you can use a hydraulic jack. Rubber and plastics have a high degree of thermal expansion.

Paul

[bazar01]

Good idea.
I can make one of that.

Data Traveler, yes, Georgia USA.

[bazar01]

I will have a 3 day weekend and hope to try one side with my home made puller and installation tool. This is without dropping the subframe.
I have not seen my P80 lubricant though. If it does not show up in time, I will use dishwashing liquid soap.

[bazar01]

No luck with pulling out the old bushing.
I will try something different next week.