Starter Removal

[gldfshkpr]

I have a 97 318i. I disconnected the electrical connections and the lower bolt for the starter. I can't seem to find the upper bolt for the starter. The books say to remove the bolt from the engine compartment. I'm just not seeing/feeling it. Can anybody help with this?

[6speed ti]

Originally Posted by gldfshkpr

I have a 97 318i. I disconnected the electrical connections and the lower bolt for the starter. I can't seem to find the upper bolt for the starter. The books say to remove the bolt from the engine compartment. I'm just not seeing/feeling it. Can anybody help with this?

The bottom bolt is removed from below the car. The upper bolt has to be there.
Then you swing it out at a pivot to remove the starter. If you have the new starter on hand take a look at it as a reference. When you install the new starter the Torque is as follows: 45 Nm. or 34 ft.lbs. This is from the BMW Service manual. DO NOT overtorque. Everything is Aluminum.

[gldfshkpr]

Thanks for the input 6speed. I realize the lower bolt gets removed from underneath. I did that yesterday. It's the upper bolt I can't seem to find from up top. I've read several posts, books and diagrams. I do not have the new one yet, but I've studied photos online. Some folks say to remove the upper manifold to gain access to the upper bolt. The Haynes manual just says to reach behind the motor and remove it. I can just barely touch it with my finger from below. It's a real stretch. But when I get back up and into the engine bay, I can't seem to locate it. The upper bolt is supposed to be the easier of the two, right?

[cooljess76]

What year is your car? IIRC, '97 or newer models have a threaded starter meaning the upper bolt threads directly into the starter instead of using a nut on the backside of the tranny. If you have the older style, you're going to need a long ass extension, a swivel and someone to hold the ratchet and extension through the engine compartment between the upper and lower intake manifold onto the nut while you turn the bolt from underneath. As for finding the upper bolt, it's really tight, but if you move the fuel lines with the braided plastic sleeves over to the side, you can squeeze your forearm up and around the side of the transmission bell housing. The upper bolt is almost on top of the transmission. Once you can feel it with your finger, get another long extension with the appropriate torx socket, guide it onto the bolt head and position it. From there you can loosen it, but remember if you have the older style you'll need someone in the engine compartment to hold the nut.

[gldfshkpr]

Originally Posted by cooljess76

What year is your car? IIRC, '97 or newer models have a threaded starter meaning the upper bolt threads directly into the starter instead of using a nut on the backside of the tranny. If you have the older style, you're going to need a long ass extension, a swivel and someone to hold the ratchet and extension through the engine compartment between the upper and lower intake manifold onto the nut while you turn the bolt from underneath. As for finding the upper bolt, it's really tight, but if you move the fuel lines with the braided plastic sleeves over to the side, you can squeeze your forearm up and around the side of the transmission bell housing. The upper bolt is almost on top of the transmission. Once you can feel it with your finger, get another long extension with the appropriate torx socket, guide it onto the bolt head and position it. From there you can loosen it, but remember if you have the older style you'll need someone in the engine compartment to hold the nut.

Mine's a 97. So yes, I have the threaded starter mounts. Are you saying to remove the upper bolt from beneath the car? This has been a real puzzle to me. The lower bolt took me 5 minutes to get out once I figured out what tools and from which access point to work. I spent hours figuring out that.

[hatchgrafix]

Remove both from beneath the car.

TIP: If you combine a few shorter extensions, to make a long one. You will be able to sort of "arc" them to help get the socket between the transmission and the chassis.

You should be soooo glad you have the threaded starter, just imagine how crappy it is now, and then multiply that by about 10.

Good luck

[gldfshkpr]

Thanks. I am glad I have the threaded starter. I can't see removing the upper bolt from underneath. Can you give more details?

[hatchgrafix]

Originally Posted by gldfshkpr

Thanks. I am glad I have the threaded starter. I can't see removing the upper bolt from underneath. Can you give more details?

Okay, well what everybody has said on here is correct.

Did you at least find the bolt with your hand? I doubt you will be able to see the bolt, you will have to feel for it, that is why is sucks so bad!! I don't know what else to say man. It's a toughy, but don't give up!!

GL

[hatchgrafix]

This thread brings back painful memories of putting in my Fidanza flywheel and M3 clutch kit.

[Junk]

I reached it from the top, as per the writeup somewhere on this board.. you have to remove the cowl plate and move the wiring harness and maybe a heater hose or whatnot to get some space in there for your arm, then you should be able to reach down in there and feel for it.. then you need a swivel head ratchet and deep socket or stubby extension. I didn't believe it was possible until I did it and once you know just where everything is, (and have the proper tools!) it's not too bad.. Heater hoses come off easily too which is nice, you don't have to worry destroying anything.. at least mine did..

[gldfshkpr]

Originally Posted by Junk

I reached it from the top, as per the writeup somewhere on this board.. you have to remove the cowl plate and move the wiring harness and maybe a heater hose or whatnot to get some space in there for your arm, then you should be able to reach down in there and feel for it.. then you need a swivel head ratchet and deep socket or stubby extension. I didn't believe it was possible until I did it and once you know just where everything is, (and have the proper tools!) it's not too bad.. Heater hoses come off easily too which is nice, you don't have to worry destroying anything.. at least mine did..

Hi Junk. Take a look at these photos. I think this is the upper bolt with the black socket on it. It almost feels like the ratchet is too bulky to put onto the socket. Can you at least confirm for me this is the correct bolt? It's kinda blury in the second photo. Thanks.

[Junk]

Hmm.. seems like that was about where it was.. if not.. it could be a little lower and to side.. but I think that's it.. You can't put a normal ratchet on there, I bought a swivel head just for this task.

[gldfshkpr]

Originally Posted by Junk

Hmm.. seems like that was about where it was.. if not.. it could be a little lower and to side.. but I think that's it.. You can't put a normal ratchet on there, I bought a swivel head just for this task.

Exactly. The swivel head is what I figured after about 45 min. trying to get the ratchet on the socket or the socket/ratchet combination on the bolt. I'm buying the swivel head tomorrow. So far I have $50 in tools into this project. It's been a steep learning curve, but I should be able to do this job in 3 hours start to finish next time. I really appreciate the help. Not sure I could do it without this forum.

[denglish318ti]

Hey, put a jack under the gearbox and undo the rear gearbox mounts. Then jack the box up a bit and it may help you to see the bolt. This is only going to add 10 mins to the job.

I went under the car and put the socket on two feet of extension bars with a wobble bar connected to the socket. Then my friend from above slipped the socket on the bolt.

Another way might be to lower the gearbox on the jack and you might be able to reach it with the extra room created

[gldfshkpr]

Well. I bought the flex-head ratchet. Still can't seem to get the socket on the bolt. I'm starting to think the extentions are the way to go. I'll try the flex-head some more tomorrow.