 » Site Navigation | | | | » Recent Threads | | | |  |  |  | |  02-14-2008, 09:21 PM | | | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Oxford, Ohio Posts: 868 |  Oil Filter Housing Leak fix DIY
I hope this helps anyone with this problem. Attachment... |  |  | | |  Anyone make this mistake??
Glad to have joined this site as a new member to trade experiences.
I just replaced the oil filter housing gasket on my 98 318i, and added the O rings. I placed the rings on either end of the cylinder as "end caps" rather than fitting/seating them on the piece itself. In other words, after extracting the cylinder, I placed one O ring down in the open cylinder, and placed the other O ring in the empty housing cylinder before putting it all back together again. When I took the filter housing off, the cylinder didn't have any O rings on it, so I put them into what I thought was the most logical place after calling Bavarian Auto recycling and talking to one of their guys. Everything seems to be working fine (stopped major oil leak) but was curious if anyone has had the same experience. Should I take it all apart again to set the O rings in the appropriate place (seated on the cylinder) as per the ordered part pic? Any advice is always welcome as I am a novice at this (trying to do as much as possible myself). Thanks | | | By bimbim on 12-22-2011, 04:53 PM |
you better check again about not seeing any O rings, they may be there but hard to tell with all the oil. Other than that if it stopped leaking and you have good oil pressure, I guess its ok... | | | | |
I would take it apart and put the o-rings in the right spot. Installing them as you did may not seal correctly, even if it is sealing for the moment.
Putting the o-rings in at the end of thepart makes the stacked height of the cylinder taller, so it may crack the housing or just leak out of the gasket.
Also, the old o-rings probably look like they have a square cross section as they have been installed for so long under heat and pressureThe pic in the write-up shows what they look like new and where they are to be installed.
I would not have bought a part like this used. They are so cheap from the dealer(bushing and gasket cost me $11)
The good news is, doing this job for the second time will take half as much time as doing it the first time. | | | By max911 on 01-05-2012, 08:02 PM |
Recently purchased a '96 ti.
Front of engine was a mess. Engine oil and power steering fluid.
Looked at paperwork that the previous owner had and there was a bill from a BMW dealer that also listed other items that needed repair. There was an estimate to replace the front seal.
While cleaning things up I noticed a clean spot along the oil filter housing. Clean, as in washed with engine oil; not black crud like everywhere else.
Did the repair following the instructions in the DYI. Everything went well, and yes, the alternator is tight on the mounts!
O-rings were square and as hard as the plastic bush.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!
max | | | | |
Does the Bush screw in or does it just push in. It looks likes there are threads to screw in and mine is still stuck on the Block.
I havent bothered to pull really hard bc I didnt want it to snap if it was screw in.
I need to remove it tomorrow so I can install new one and get car back together.
Screw or push/pressure fit? | | | | |
There are no threads on the bush.
Give it a twist in both directions to loosen then pull it straight out. | | | By Mopho on 03-14-2012, 08:28 PM |
I have done both 96 ti's I've owned, and the greenie I still have, after having the valve job done (blew head gasket when it overheated from former owners mechanic putting the lower L shaped radiator hose on backwards when the radiator was changed, making it rub on the pulleys, dumb sh-t). If you change the o-rings and gasket, you will have no more leaks. I can park on my new driveway, not a single drop of oil leaks now (after about 20K). I thought it was the front crank seal leaking NOT- don't fall for mechanics telling you to change it. According to my BMW mechanic at BMW dealership, the front crank seal never needs replacing unless you are rebuilding the entire engine. With 162,000 miles on mine, I use about a quart of oil every 5-7 K now. So when the oil gets a quart low, it's time to change it (definately run synthetic, it will last longer). That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.  | | | | |
i did this repair a few weeks ago too.simple. | | | | |
just did this on my track car, it went smoothly up until I went to put the belt back on and stripped screw on the tensioner, turns out it's a T50 and not a 6mm allen  at least I was able to use a pry bar to get the belt back on | | | | |
Hey guys. Newbie here. I love the post and walk-through. I encountered the same broken bolt hitch as Dave45056. In addition, the housing seems to be frozen to the broken-off bolt. All the other bolts have been removed and the housing moves pretty freely; pivoting on the broken bolt. I have wiggled, PB-Busted, even pried a little behind the housing. I can not get it to slide off. I'm on day three of just trying to get the housing to slide off the 1/2" of the bolt that remains hanging out of the block. I know other than the broken bolt its just the Bush holding it on.
So.... ideas? I don't want to pry too hard on the housing and damage it... Nor do I want to pry on the gasketed surfaces.
Help! | | | | |
Well.... I did it. And I was right. The bolt had frozen to the inside of the housing. So what would you have done?
I took the long piece of the bolt that had broken off and turned a 1/8" hole all the way through it on a lathe. I used it as a guide to to drill a pilot into the frozen section of bolt ((careful not to go to deep)so I would have enough bolt to grab with my vise-grips when I got the housing off) Then, without the guide I stepped the bit size up 1/32" of an inch at a time until it was so flimsy the housing pulled right off. The remaining bolt chunk was finger tight in the block. While cleaning the housing I noticed there was still a collar of bolt clinging to the inside of the housing. So I drilled it out too.
Question: When I removed the housing (I'd post pics if I were allowed) I noticed the block and the housing base were divided into several small "chambers". While the filter and filter housing were clean as a whistle.... the upper most chamber in the housing and the block side were full and I mean full of a frightening gritty black sludge (GBS). Of course I cleaned it all out while being careful not to allow it to fall into the impeller area. This is not my first time turning my own wrenches, but... it is my first BMW: '98 Titansilber sunroof delete manual base with sport body. Nice to meet you. What mysteries lurk ahead associate with the GBS? I'm going into the valve cover Monday... wonder what I'll find. There is no smoke... so I doubt it choked back a handful sand.... coolant and reservoir smell oil-free so I doubt it ever ate a bite of head gasket. Curious...
The O-rings on the bush were completely flat. I feel good this thread helped me find and fix my leak.
Thanks Dave45056 | | Last edited by AllHands; 05-18-2012 at 10:26 PM.. Reason: Add question | | |
Thanks to Dave for posting this, just did it and it made the job much easier. Interestingly, I had more trouble with the nuts on the alternator wires than anything else. Getting the alternator on and off was a pita but I guess was expecting it so it didn't seem too bad. I think I still have another leak but maybe this will solve the worst of it.
Mark | | | | |
I have a leak coming from my housing now. Does the bush breaks easily when you remove it?
It seems that many get a new bush. I'd like to save a few bucks by just replacing the o-rings. Would it be risky to assume the bush would be fine upon removal? | | | | |
The gasket is going to need to be replaced as well. The gasket and two O-rings will set you back close to $20. Are you trying not to spend over the 4 or 5 bucks for the O-rings? | | | | |
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