Rear suspension uneven

[paul somlo]

Did the metal flange of the bushing bend? If so, that's fairly common. To get the bushing moving, you'll need enough heat to get the rubber burning. The problem with using a two jaw puller, is that you have limited contact with the bushing's metal flange. What would be far better, is a collar that wraps around and contacts the bushing's flange almost 360 degrees around, with provision for engaging the puller's arms.

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by paul somlo

Did the metal flange of the bushing bend? If so, that's fairly common. To get the bushing moving, you'll need enough heat to get the rubber burning. The problem with using a two jaw puller, is that you have limited contact with the bushing's metal flange. What would be far better, is a collar that wraps around and contacts the bushing's flange almost 360 degrees around, with provision for engaging the puller's arms.

You are correct. The bushing flange was bending. I was only able to push it out about 1/8". Then I stopped.

My next plan is to drop the subframe a little then remove the stud.
Once the stud is out, I will use a 3 inch pipe to pull out the old bushing using a 1/2 inch threaded rod. I could have tried this but I could not find a 3 inch pipe at home depot.

I already got the stud loose while I was attempting to pull the old bushing out. I used a 27mm open wrench.

[bazar01]

Found a 6 inch long 3" diameter conduit nipple at a local electrical parts store. The stock bushing fits perfectly inside the bore. The plan is to drop the subframe just enough to get the M14 threaded stud out of the underside of the car. Then use a threaded rod and the 3" conduit nipple to pull out the old rubber bushing.
Once the old bushing is out, I will try to install the split urethane top bushing first and then install the stud. Once stud is installed, the rest of the lower urethane bushing and aluminum sleeve can be installed.
I believe this should work.

[paul somlo]

I hope it works, but I still think you may end up dropping the subframe to the ground. You'll need to clear the stud, maybe four inches or so, then swing the subframe out of the way. I hope there's enough slack in the flexible brake lines and electrical connections to allow that kind of movement.

I'm glad to see that you're going back to the urethane bushing that you purchased - it'll make things much easier.

Looking forward to hearing how things went.

[LouM...]

Pictures if you have time. Just in case I (we) run into the same issue.
TIA
LouM...

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by paul somlo

I hope it works, but I still think you may end up dropping the subframe to the ground. You'll need to clear the stud, maybe four inches or so, then swing the subframe out of the way.
.

I really hate to drop the subframe but that will be the last resort if this don't work.

I am removing or unscrewing the stud off the underchassis mount. I already broke it loose but put it back on since I cannot find a 3 inch pipe to pull the rubber bushing.

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by LouM...

Pictures if you have time. Just in case I (we) run into the same issue.
TIA
LouM...

Yes. I will take pics. Lots of them.

[bazar01]

I worked on the car last night.
Got the M14 x 1.5 stud off the body mount. Still have to pull the old bushing though.
The plan is to replace this stud with a M14 x 1.5 x 150mm long hex cap screw to secure the new urethane bushings to the subframe and body.
I ordered two M14 x 1.5 x 150mm hex cap screws from Fastenal and should be here on Friday.
Hope to finish this bushing ordeal by this weekend.

[bazar01]

Got the bushing stud out of the way.
Now I am ready to pull the old bushing out with threaded rod and 3 inch pipe.
I will try to pull it out tomorrow.

[bazar01]

Got the passenger side finished.

Tools:
1. Puller set up
2. Propane torch
3. 19 mm wrenches
4. 27 mm open wrench - for stud (adjustable will do)
5. 21 mm socket
6. 2 floor jacks and one MaxJax car lift

Prep:
1. Removed the bushing stud
2. Removed the rear rubber brake hose
3. Removed the diff mount bolt

Steps.
1. Pull out the bushing stud
2. Install the puller
3. Heat old bushing with propane torch.
4. Start pulling the old bushing out
5. Once old bushing is out, install top urethane bushing
6. Do not install the aluminum spacer that came with the urethane
7. Install the bushing stud
8. Install the diff mount back
9. Center up the top bushing to the stud, then install the aluminum spacer
10. Drive the aluminum spacer in with a long socket
11. Install the lower urethane bushing part.
12. Drive it in with a washer and the M14 hex nut
13. Put everything back on.

[bazar01]

Here is the two-part urethane bushing with the aluminum spacer or sleeve that goes in the center.
I opted to install the urethane because I took advantage of this design. The two part bushing allowed me to install just the top half without the aluminum sleeve to make it easier to re-install the threaded stud back into the chassis. The larger hole without the sleeve allowed for easier stud re-installation.
This is quite difficult to do with the stock rubber bushing.

[paul somlo]

Success!

The pin punch - is that to stabilize the pipe nipple, since there's only one place for the nipple's end to bear on the subframe?

Originally Posted by bazar01

The larger hole without the sleeve allowed for easier stud re-installation. This is quite difficult to do with the stock rubber bushing.

Is that because you have more lateral wiggle room? Does that mean that removing the stud was tricky?

Well, in the end, you were pretty close to dropping the subframe anyway; an emergency brake cable and some electrical wires were about all that was holding it in. I think I mentioned earlier in this thread, that the 318ti has rear suspension very similar to the E30. But the E30 has the advantage of the stud being pressed in from up above. They typically remove the rear seat, and drive the stud out from below.

So, how does the ride feel with the urethane bushings?

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by paul somlo

Success!

The pin punch - is that to stabilize the pipe nipple, since there's only one place for the nipple's end to bear on the subframe?

Is that because you have more lateral wiggle room? Does that mean that removing the stud was tricky?

Well, in the end, you were pretty close to dropping the subframe anyway; an emergency brake cable and some electrical wires were about all that was holding it in. I think I mentioned earlier in this thread, that the 318ti has rear suspension very similar to the E30. But the E30 has the advantage of the stud being pressed in from up above. They typically remove the rear seat, and drive the stud out from below.

So, how does the ride feel with the urethane bushings?

The pin punch - is that to stabilize the pipe nipple, since there's only one place for the nipple's end to bear on the subframe?
Yes you are absolutely correct. To stabilize the pipe nipple. Only one side on the subframe has a stop.


Is that because you have more lateral wiggle room? Does that mean that removing the stud was tricky?
Yes. More lateral wiggle room to install the threaded stud. Removing the stud requires that the subframe be moved back to offset the stud from the mount. That's why I had to remove the diff mounting bolt and the shocks lower bolts on both wheels so I can move the subframe passenger side back away from the chassis mount so I can pull the stud out of the old rubber bushing.

Well, in the end, you were pretty close to dropping the subframe anyway; an emergency brake cable and some electrical wires were about all that was holding it in. I think I mentioned earlier in this thread, that the 318ti has rear suspension very similar to the E30. But the E30 has the advantage of the stud being pressed in from up above. They typically remove the rear seat, and drive the stud out from below.
The 318TI stud is threaded and has to be removed from the bottom of the car.

So, how does the ride feel with the urethane bushings?
Well, I still have to do the driver side bushing. The car is still on the MaxJax lift.

[bazar01]

Finished both sides today.

Rear suspension has a more solid feel. The remaining slight clunking is gone.
We'll see how long this urethane bushings last.

[slade13]

I haven't replaced mine yet but I was wondering if the sub frame could be lowered and a sawzall be used to get the old bushings out?