Need help with air pump!!!

Estii · 03-11-2015, 07:06 AM

So i had a leaking airpump, all 6 rivets were either broken or missing completely. I took off the air filter, throttle body, loosen up the air pump and removed it. Then i put 6 bolts with washers through the holes were the rivets used to be and clean the MAF with MAF cleaner while it was out and then put it all back together. When i went to start the car it started right up,then stalled. I tried again and same thing. The car only remains running now if i constantly give it gas and it reaks of fuel like its running too rich. I double checked everything i took apart to get the air filter out and all conectors are in place and all hoses are tightened down. I dont know what could be wrong. All i did is fix the terrible leak in the air pump and now the car WONT IDLE. Any help would be much appreciated or its going to be a tow to the mechanics.

**BlackBMWs** · 03-11-2015, 08:09 AM

Sorry this is happening... Check the vacuum and emission lines for breakage, especially the plastic one that goes across the front of the engine. It can get brittle and crack between the bellows where it would be hard to notice. Also, just make sure it is fully fitted and inserted into the pump.

When you took the motor off, did you reattach the electrical connection at the bottom of the motor after repair?

BTW, I need to do to the air pump on my 98. I suspect the rivets are loose. Easy fix.

Estii · 03-11-2015, 08:15 AM

The big plastic one that runs along the front is fairly but ill check for breakage like suggested. I know its attached to the pump securely because you hear a good click when it seats properly. Besides that one where are the other vacuum lines? The connection on bottom of the pump is secure too, it also has an audible click when fitted securely. Just a side note, I also cleaned all the connections involved while disassembled with electrical connector cleaner, specifically to try and avoid a situation like this.

**BlackBMWs** · 03-11-2015, 08:26 AM

You prolly already checked these, but just in case.

So you took off the air cleaner and MAF to get to the air pump. Check the bellows between the MAF and the throttle body to ensure the clamp is on and secured and that there are no cracks in the rubber.

If you have ASC, check the connecting hoses. There is a fat vacuum line under the bellows hose that goes into the throttle. Make sure it is still attached. It attaches with a plastic union joint. Make sure the hose isn't split there and leaking.

Did you reconnect the electrical connector to the MAF? Electrical connection to the air temp sensor in the air box? is the connector for the ICV connected? (M44) Disconnect the MAF electrical connector. Is the behavior different or the same? If the same, the MAF may have failed.

Good luck in checking all this.

Estii · 03-11-2015, 08:41 AM

Whats ASC. Everything else stated has been checked 3 times and is all conected. Ill try the MAF disconect test and post the results. Just strange how sesling up an air box leak could cause such a failure.

**BlackBMWs** · 03-11-2015, 08:45 AM

Traction control. Ya, I hate stuff like this...

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Estii · 03-11-2015, 08:50 AM

Oh yes traction control. Well ill start with checking the ling bellows hose and do the MAF disconect test and post the results. Hopefull one of the two will provide answers.

Estii · 03-11-2015, 09:08 PM

Okay, so I've inspected the Bellows hose and it looks to be in good shape. The results of the MAF disconnect test were pretty interesting. With the MAF connected, the car starts up then the RPM drop and it stalls out. It only remains running if I give constant gas and it shakes like a mother as if it is misfiring. Now with the MAF disconnected, the car starts up and stalls the same, but If I provide constant gas for like 3 seconds and hold it around 1K RPM I can release the gas pedal and the car will idle. It also doesn't shake like a misfire with the MAF disconnected. However it still does not maintain an idle on its own with out me holding for a moment at 1K RPM. I also noticed the very strong smell of fuel and actually saw my tailpipe spraying fuel. This didn't happen before tightening the air pump housing.

**BlackBMWs** · 03-12-2015, 02:13 AM

Do you have another MAF to test with? Where are you located?

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Estii · 03-12-2015, 02:24 AM

I dont have another MAF but would getting another correct the problem? Im down in Tustin Southern Cali, kinda by Anaheim.

LouM... · 03-12-2015, 04:25 AM

I would still lean towards a vacuum leak somewhere. Not sure how many hoses are on that engine or where they are. I had the same problem and found the small hose going to the intake in front of the #1 runner was badly deteriorated from heat. That was pure luck on my part seeing the hose. Also smelled like fuel when I was able to keep it running.
I plan on replacing all of them when I find the time and a vac diagram.

LouM...

Estii · 03-12-2015, 04:56 AM

Yea im going to need a vaccum diagram myself because the only lines i know of are the obviouse ones, like the bellows one in front. Ive checked all the ones i know of and they look good. Id like to check all the lines but i honestly dont know where they all are. Ill search for a diagram and if i find one ill post it here. Still the MAF test leads me to think i might be needing a new one. Also i noticed a strange ticking coming from the IACV. That may also be a problem but im not sure its related to the more immediate stalling situation.

**BlackBMWs** · 03-12-2015, 04:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LouM...

I would still lean towards a vacuum leak somewhere. Not sure how many hoses are on that engine or where they are. I had the same problem and found the small hose going to the intake in front of the #1 runner was badly deteriorated from heat. That was pure luck on my part seeing the hose. Also smelled like fuel when I was able to keep it running.

I plan on replacing all of them when I find the time and a vac diagram.

LouM...

Lou, when I went to replace all of mine, I went to RealOEM, printed off the diagrams for every hose, highlighted them, cross checked on the car, determined which ones I have to replace with specific hoses vs. where I could use bulk hoses. I did this for vacumm, fuel and coolant hoses and replaced them all in a weekend. Since doing this two years ago, along with the water pump and radiator, I've had no issues and slept better.

**BlackBMWs** · 03-12-2015, 05:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Estii

Yea im going to need a vaccum diagram myself because the only lines i know of are the obviouse ones, like the bellows one in front. Ive checked all the ones i know of and they look good. Id like to check all the lines but i honestly dont know where they all are. Ill search for a diagram and if i find one ill post it here. Still the MAF test leads me to think i might be needing a new one. Also i noticed a strange ticking coming from the IACV. That may also be a problem but im not sure its related to the more immediate stalling situation.

I asked about location as there are a few members in SoCal who may be able to lend a hand if they have a spare MAF. If you were up here, I have a few spares, including a new one, never used.

IIRC, the 750il used a pair of the same MAFs if you head to a salvage yard as well as M44 motors off 318i and 318is models. I have bought them ranging from $12 to $52 depending on which yard I went to. A new Bosch is costly. You can get 2 or 3 used at the yards for a fraction of the price of a new Bosch.

Anyway, perhaps you can find a generous member who can make it to your location and lend you their MAF only to test with as it's a quick test.

LouM... · 03-12-2015, 05:16 AM

Good suggestion BlackBMW. Will do the same.

LouM...

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