 » Site Navigation | | | | » Recent Threads | | | looove 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 0 Comments, 1,669 Views | |  |  |  | |  09-09-2007, 02:55 AM | | | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 1,587 |  Cooling System Rebuild. PICS!
Cooling System Overhaul 1996 318ti Auto / M44. Parts List • Radiator, 17111728905 - $128 (ebay - AC Imports) • OE Water Pump, 11510393338? - $79.82 (Tischer BMW) • 1 Gallon... |  |  | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by Mr.Squeelerz  Is your DISA controller connected?
You will want to take both upper and lower intake off.
It's an easy job. Just a little involved in some spots but nothing that should intimidate the average Joe. | Mr,squeelerz-- I'm already kind of intimidated-- I may give it a try. I was able to get to the connector by removing the battery box and reaching in under there. I was able to remove the bolts holding the connector to the engine and loose the clamp on the smaller hose. The bigger hose was already broken off so i wont need to do that. 1)How does the connecter come off? Does it just pop out or is there alot force required to remove it? Is thiis connector reachable from under the car? I haven't crawled under there and tried yet. 2) lets say I do get these hoses off- Will I be able to reattach them easily? 3) Is there anyone in NYC that is capable helping out and remove the intake manifold and related parts to get this properly? I'd be happy to pay you for your time (a couple hundred dollars?) and save myself alot of frustration!! Thanks, Joe | | Last edited by jm318ti; 11-18-2010 at 09:28 PM.. | | |
I wish I lived close by. I would be more than happy to help for free. I have to admit I was intimidated at first as well. I am too cheap and stubborn to trust it to anyone otherwise. But after firing up the car when it was all done, I am so glad to say it works great. The info on this forum has been the only thing I can attribute the repair a success.
I say go for it. Its a matter of just undoing bolts and sliding off a few hoses. Take a mental note as you go. Snap lots of pictures at each step, document as you tape and lable each connector and its home. Then after you get the repair done, just reverse the order. I took one short cut and had a straggler, but the generous people on here were able to help. So dont worry and just do it. Help is just a click away if you get stuck. | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by jm318ti Mr,squeelerz--
I'm already kind of intimidated-- I may give it a try. I was able to get to the connector by removing the battery box and reaching in under there. I was able to remove the bolts holding the connector to the engine and loose the clamp on the smaller hose. The bigger hose was already broken off so i wont need to do that.
1)How does the connecter come off? Does it just pop out or is there alot force required to remove it? Is thiis connector reachable from under the car?
I haven't crawled under there and tried yet.
2) lets say I do get these hoses off- Will I be able to reattach them easily?
3) Is there anyone in NYC that is capable helping out and remove the intake manifold and related parts to get this properly? I'd be happy to pay you for your time (a couple hundred dollars?) and save myself alot of frustration!!
Thanks,
Joe | You're making it harder for yourself than it needs to be by being intimidated. It really is a simple job...meaning, It doesn't take a dummy to remove a few bolts and connectors. Just label your wires and put bolts back in their location after you removed the item, that way you don't lose your hardware or forget where it goes. Best thing about this, you learn something, and get to know your car better. You might find other things that need replacing in the process, so do evaluate everything as you go. Taking off the upper and lower intake - be sure you have your battery disconnected before you start removing things. Also, you will want to relieve the fuel pressure before taking off the fuel rail (which is a simple procedure). You will get to see how dirty your injectors are, as CirrusSR22 showed by example. The connector is recessed and held in tightly with an o-ring. Just wiggle it away from the block in a teeter totter fashion gradually. It should just pop out ,not much to it. It could just break, so you should use care when removing this, as there could be pieces of the fitting potentially falling inside your engine if the fitting breaks up. Having everything off will honestly make things a lot easier. Seriously, go for it! Take your time, because if you rush, you'll make dumb mistakes. | | Last edited by Mr.Squeelerz; 11-19-2010 at 06:57 AM.. | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by Mr.Squeelerz You're making it harder for yourself than it needs to be by being intimidated.
It really is a simple job...meaning, It doesn't take a dummy to remove a few bolts and connectors. Just label your wires and put bolts back in their location after you removed the item, that way you don't lose your hardware or forget where it goes. Best thing about this, you learn something, and get to know your car better. You might find other things that need replacing in the process, so do evaluate everything as you go.
Taking off the upper and lower intake - be sure you have your battery disconnected before you start removing things. Also, you will want to relieve the fuel pressure before taking off the fuel rail (which is a simple procedure). You will get to see how dirty your injectors are, as CirrusSR22 showed by example.
The connector is recessed and held in tightly with an o-ring. Just wiggle it away from the block in a teeter totter fashion gradually. It should just pop out ,not much to it. It could just break, so you should use care when removing this, as there could be pieces of the fitting potentially falling inside your engine if the fitting breaks up.
Having everything off will honestly make things a lot easier.
Seriously, go for it! Take your time, because if you rush, you'll make dumb mistakes. | Mr squeelerz- I think I'll try next year when the weather warms up. I park on the street and in NYC we have to move street cleaning 4 days a week so I would have to be finished really quick. Not ideal condition to learn. I needed a quick fix. Here's what I did so far. I abandoned removing the connector for now and just want to repair it. I turned (on the lathe) a piece that friction fits into the broken part. I got a new connector and used that to measure the diameter my turned part. I was able to put that into the broken connector and reattach the hose. Some of the hose overlaps the existing part as well. I plan to use a clamp to attach the very end of the hose to the existing connector and use another clamp to attach to the new piece that I turned. I wasn't able to tighten the bands yet- need to get a other socket extension. I don't plan to drive this car very far-just around the block or maybe a few blocks. How much pressure builds up in the coolant lines? If for some reason I cant get the clamps tightened will they just blow off? Also I circled a part in CirrusSR22's car- I don't have that thing in my car. What its it? Thanks-- joe | | Last edited by jm318ti; 11-22-2010 at 01:24 AM.. Reason: Added Photo | | |
Hey, i dont know if this is where i should be asking this but i am new to BMW's and this site.
I just got a 95 318ti for 2300 dollars, one problem with it, that didn't come up during test driving though. Its over heating. It has plenty of coolant in it, im suspecting a fuse or sensor due to the fact the fan doesn't turn on. i tested the fan myself and it does work. The seal is bad on the radiator cap but i dont think it would have this big of an effect. Please help! | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by goosejuice Hey, i dont know if this is where i should be asking this but i am new to BMW's and this site.
I just got a 95 318ti for 2300 dollars, one problem with it, that didn't come up during test driving though. Its over heating. It has plenty of coolant in it, im suspecting a fuse or sensor due to the fact the fan doesn't turn on. i tested the fan myself and it does work. The seal is bad on the radiator cap but i dont think it would have this big of an effect. Please help! | It sounds like you may need to purge the air from the cooling system. I had the exact same thing happen to me. Bought the car and never tested the heat. Is yours blowing hot air thru the vents? | | | | |
NO, no heat from the vents! That didnt strike me as a problem when we got the car. It over heats very quickly, not as fast as when its moving. The car had been sitting for a year or two before i got it. | | Last edited by goosejuice; 11-23-2010 at 11:57 PM.. | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by goosejuice NO, no heat from the vents! That didnt strike me as a problem when we got the car. It over heats very quickly, not as fast as when its moving. The car had been sitting for a year or two before i got it. | I just had this problem after the connector broke. Overheating in idle after 10 min or so, no heat from blower. I started to freak out and think i broke something else. Searched overheating and no heat on this site and found out air in the coolant system can cause this. Fixed it this AM-- jack up the front corner near the expansion tank and turn on the heat and watch the trapped air come out (fill with coolant). Does not over heat and I have hot air coming from the vents-- This site is invaluable for learning!-- Joe | | | | |
Thanks man! Im still wondering why the cooling fan wont turn on.. | | | | |
It think it will after you bleed the system. Before it would not turn on in idle. Thought that was broken too. After I bled the air, it turned on after idling a bit. Needle is right in the middle.
good luck--
joe | | | | |
yes, it does take quite awhile for the fan to turn on with mine too. I cant figure out how to get ALL the air out of mine for some reason. I have bled it 5 times already. I must be doing something wrong. Everyone else makes it sound so easy. | | | | |
i will bleed it after i get it back from the shop, they are getting it smoged for me. apparently the guy i bought it from didn't registered it for 2 years and the tags on the BMW belongs to a different car, there are also 6 tickets agianst it.. any help with is is greatly appreciated. i will post pictures soon | | | | | M44 Block Coolant pipe removal
Quote: Originally Posted by CirrusSR22 All that prep, and finally we can start working on the cooling system itself. That's what I tore this thing apart for, right?? Here's the coolant connector that's attached to the side of the engine block.  I removed the two bolts and three coolant hoses that are connected to it, then gently pulled it away from the block. SNAP! I think it was in a weakend state, because it gave way with very little effort. Here's a little carnage. It left the O-ring and some plastic in the block.   Time for the back of the head connector. Hard to take any pictures of it becuase it's so tight back there. This is a shot after the new one was in. Wow is this thing a b!tch. You need an open ended wrench for the top bolt, and a socket/rachet for the lower bolt. Sorry, I forgot the size. Getting the hose clamps off is really hard as well. That required a tiny 6 mm open ended wrench. Removing the cabin filter cover is pretty much required for this. It gave me a little more working room. My connector was still very study. I smacked it against the concrete a few times and jumped on it once. It didn't break.  | When I replaced my coolant pipe I was able to cut the hoses and like you, use a gear wrench on the top bolt and a small ratchet for the lower bolt. I didn't disassemble the intake (yet...I hope that one doesn't go anytime soon!) I was able to attach the new hoses to the pipe and then squeeze my hand behind the block (there was some blood) I started the top bolt from above. I then jacked the car up, crawled under it and could use my left had to start and tighten the lower bolt "relatively" easy. Carefully tightening the lower bolt the fitting slowly went in, the new o-ring is very tight. After the lower bolt was almost all the way in I went back up to the top and could tighten it without cross threading it. I then went back below and finished tightening the lower bolt. I replaced all the hoses that come off the coolant pipe. Good Times! I'm NOT looking forward to the "plastic" pipe beneath the intake!! Thanks in advance for the help! | | | | | Block Coolant Drain Seal Ring
Hello All,
I did the swap on the "y" pipe on the back of my 98 and used all the exact parts sans the waterpump & radiator as the initial thread. Everything worked just great BUT BUT BUT--- for some reason this part: Block Coolant Drain Seal Ring, 07119963200 wasn't put on. Now I am seeing water in the oil but no real reason for it being there all of a sudden. I am not sure where in the world this little what appears to be aluminum ring gasket even goes.
Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt | | | By zoner on 06-20-2011, 06:46 PM |
Does anyone know if all of the parts/hoses listed are the same for the M42 engine, with the exception of the plastic coolant connector in the back of the head? What about the hoses that connect to this plastic connector, do they connect somewhere else or are they also not used on M42 applications? Thanks.
I'm wondering if it also might not be a bad idea to replace the starter (currently- 176K mi.) while I'm in there and have everything torn apart. | | | | |
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