» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | 05-07-2017, 08:07 PM | #1 | Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 91 | Clutch Replacement Questions After 261K miles, the factory clutch in my ti is finally giving up. Actually, the clutch is still fine, I'm getting noise when the clutch is depressed (a sh-sh-sh-sh-sh sound) indicating throwout bearing failure. At any rate time for a new clutch & I have a few questions: 1 - Should I be replacing the flywheel? It's the factory dual mass now, with 261K on it. Searching here finds some saying it's crutial others saying they didn't and it was fine. I'd like to spend as little as possible on this. 2 - The Bentley indicates a couple of special tools are required. One to hold the flywheel while removing the clutch components and two for replacing the pilot bearing. Do Need the special tools? 3 - Clutch kits on Rock Auto are very cheap. The LuK kit is under $100, the Valeo is about $160. (If I need the kit with the flywheel, it's a bunch more.) Any reason to stay away from the LuK kit? This is a daily driver with stock engine. I'm not looking to mod it in the future or autocross it or anything like that. Just need to keep it running. Thanks __________________ salguod 2007 Toyota Prius Touring 2005 Mazda3 S 5 Door 1998 Ford Escort SE 1996 BMW 318ti 1960 Ford Thunderbird Convertible | | | 05-16-2017, 11:19 PM | #2 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: SLO, CA Posts: 168 | I went with an aftermarket (F1 brand) lightened single-mass flywheel and spring-center clutch. The clutch pedal throw is relatively short compared to stock, but it holds up well to autocrossing and track days; this setup was originally purchased as part of my M52 swap, but I used it when I upgraded the powerplant to an S52 last year. I use the Redline lubricants "magic sauce" recommended by many on Bimmerforums, and it helps reduce gear rattle -- but it is noticeable at idle with the air conditioning on. The rattle was definitely worse when I used red polyurethane trans mounts. I would definitely replace the shift detent pins. See post #37 on my build blog at http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38844. __________________ Sleeper Calypsorot 1996 318ti tintop. CA-legal swapped S52 from '98 M3, and ZF transmission with lightened flywheel/clutch. Magnaflow 2-into-1 muffler. Six-cylinder Eibach springs in front and 318ti H&R Sport springs in rear. Koni Sport adjustable dampers all around. Racing Dynamics 28mm & 19mm swaybars. M3 front hubs/brakes, E34 rear calipers, braided SS brake lines, Hawk HP-S pads. DS-II wheels. Polyflex purple bushings throughout, and factory lower x-brace. Fan delete mod. Engine mount reinforcements welded-in. 3.25 LSD rear diff from E28 & E30 axles. | | | 05-16-2017, 11:58 PM | #3 | Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 91 | Hmm, I haven't noticed any shift difficulties that seemed like a problem. Now that you mention it, it is tough to get in gear sometimes. Not sure I'll add to my project at this point, I'll have to look into it. I'm thinking of selling the ti this year summer so I want to keep my investment down. I went ahead and bought the LuK kit and the Valeo kit with the flywheel. I'll decide what to do once I get a look at the flywheel. __________________ salguod 2007 Toyota Prius Touring 2005 Mazda3 S 5 Door 1998 Ford Escort SE 1996 BMW 318ti 1960 Ford Thunderbird Convertible | | | 05-17-2017, 04:28 AM | #4 | Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: houston texas Posts: 11 | Just did auto to manual transmission I reused the flywheel I got new clutch pressure plate bolts from a civic,,(the hex bolts suck) No need for special tools besides one to replace the pilot bearing i rented the tool from oreallys Last edited by LeTi; 05-18-2017 at 02:21 AM. | | | 05-18-2017, 12:35 AM | #5 | Moderator Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Bouncing off the rev limiter in CT! Posts: 3,156 | You need a puller to get the old bearing out; but putting the new one in (without the correct tool) is a SHCS with a head diameter that fits inside loosely. Then a couple flat washers and a nut. Tap it in gently, making sure it goes in straight. If you use an impact driver to remove the bolts, holding the flywheel is not a big deal. But, properly torquing the bolts on reassembly requires it to be fixed. A large screwdriver or prybar with a wood block and wedge it well enough to torque. | | | 05-18-2017, 02:51 AM | #6 | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Greeley CO Posts: 233 | On my '96 ti, I didn't need a puller for the pilot bearing; I stuck my pinky in there, and the bearing came right out. | | | 05-18-2017, 02:52 AM | #7 | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Greeley CO Posts: 233 | Quote: Originally Posted by Strawman | He's probably got the Getrag 250; does the remark about the shift detent pins still apply? | | | 05-18-2017, 03:48 AM | #8 | Moderator Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Bouncing off the rev limiter in CT! Posts: 3,156 | Quote: Originally Posted by paul somlo On my '96 ti, I didn't need a puller for the pilot bearing; I stuck my pinky in there, and the bearing came right out. | That's unusual... I've heard of cases where an air gun blowing in the middle (and sealed) piped them out too. But those are the exceptions, not the norm. I would have a puller on hand. If you don't need it, great. But if you do and don't have one... | | | 05-18-2017, 04:24 AM | #9 | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Greeley CO Posts: 233 | You can get a loaner blind hole puller from Autozone. | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |