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Old 08-02-2004, 04:07 PM   #1
ZeroG
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Default Water Pump Help ...

OK. I have been trying to remove the water pump from my 95' 318 IS for the last few days and have had no luck. It sping freely, just does not want to come out. I followed the Benntly Manual and was using the M6 bolts when the damn housing with the screw holes broke off. So now I am jsut left with pulling it. I have tried mallets hammers and nothing.

Also do I have to remove the thrmostat housing? It says to remove it in the manual, but I don't see how it will help any. Except make me but a new gasket and cam sensor seal. Is there away to take the housing off without removing the cam sensor?

I appreciate any help I can get.

1995 M42..

-Chad
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Old 08-03-2004, 02:52 AM   #2
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The water pumps are bad about the back bearing failing which causes the impeller to drop down to where it hangs up on the front cover. One of our techs busted the front cover prying it out. You have to wiggle the shaft while applying light pressure to pop it out, and make sure you hold your mouth just right.
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Old 08-03-2004, 05:21 AM   #3
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Default Thanks for the advice. Another Question ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Spooner
The water pumps are bad about the back bearing failing which causes the impeller to drop down to where it hangs up on the front cover. One of our techs busted the front cover prying it out. You have to wiggle the shaft while applying light pressure to pop it out, and make sure you hold your mouth just right.
Jeff,

If this does occurr will the pump come out partially and then stop? Mine does not get anymore then 1 cm. from the timing cover. Would it be easier if I removed the Thermostat housing. I was told that you can see the impeller that way.

-Chad
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Old 08-05-2004, 07:21 AM   #4
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Default A Torch and a Crow Bar

Need I say more? I feel for anyone who has to go through this. But with the help of a friend, a torch and a crow bar I finally got it out.

-Chad
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Old 11-09-2004, 09:54 AM   #5
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Zerog21, I've got the same problem as you.

I think I know what's holding it in. The rubber o-ring hits the wall as it's coming out, and it won't compress to allow the pump to come out.
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Old 11-09-2004, 10:10 AM   #6
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It's a bit too late I guess, but that's exactly how I got mine out - HUGE CROW BAR. I spent close to 3 hours trying all sorts of things, and in the end I got it out in pieces. The water pump job can be a total PITA.

SL

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Originally Posted by zerog21
Need I say more? I feel for anyone who has to go through this. But with the help of a friend, a torch and a crow bar I finally got it out.

-Chad
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Old 11-09-2004, 02:09 PM   #7
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Ended up getting it out. Engine oil was used to help lubricate the o-ring. About 15 mins later, and a lil prying it was out.
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Old 11-09-2004, 04:36 PM   #8
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Default Glad to hear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RAiMA
Ended up getting it out. Engine oil was used to help lubricate the o-ring. About 15 mins later, and a lil prying it was out.
When I went through it, it ws such a pain. In the end I used a crow bar, WD40, and a torch to heat things up a bit.

-Chad
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Old 11-09-2004, 04:59 PM   #9
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Default new beemer buyer

Hi guys how much would a new water pump and fuel pump cost including installation on a 95 318ti .... i am trying to get an idea regarding repair costs

thanks
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:14 PM   #10
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I have read to upgrade the water pump to metal...I guess ti's have a plastic pump and they are prone to go out...I don't know though...
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Old 11-09-2004, 07:22 PM   #11
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The plastic pump failure is ONLY applicable to the 6cyl models!!!

SL


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Originally Posted by ddiorio1313
I have read to upgrade the water pump to metal...I guess ti's have a plastic pump and they are prone to go out...I don't know though...
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Old 11-10-2004, 01:19 PM   #12
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Thats good to know....
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