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Old 08-04-2009, 04:31 PM   #61
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Jess,
I bought my RedLine Gear Oil at The NAPA in town, either NAPA or PEPboys should be a place for you to look at for RedLine products. Jess the Mad-Mechanic (Mad-Scientist) with his Hybrid Ti... It'll turnout as a monster ride for sure!
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:20 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnosker View Post
Wtf... Mobil 1 was $5/qt at my Autozone. You are getting 75w90 LS right?
My bad, I was looking at the 75w140 which is for light trucks. The 75w90 was 8 bucks.

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Jess,
I bought my RedLine Gear Oil at The NAPA in town, either NAPA or PEPboys should be a place for you to look at for RedLine products. Jess the Mad-Mechanic (Mad-Scientist) with his Hybrid Ti... It'll turnout as a monster ride for sure!
Just got back from PEPboys. Manny, Moe and Jack didn't have it. I'm calling NAPA right now. Yeah Luis, it's a crazy setup for sure. Who would of thought that it would take parts from 4 different BMW models to make the Ti a monster
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:28 AM   #63
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I ended up getting Mobil1 75w90 Synthetic. The only place that carries Redline gear oil locally was a motorcycle shop on the other end of town. I know a lot of people swear by Redline, but I'm willing to bet that Mobil1 is as good if not better. $11.99 a quart, it better be good!
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:31 AM   #64
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Ive used Mobil in mine, its alright i guess. OEM bmw fluid, which i think is castrol is some good stuff but its 70$ to get.
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Old 08-05-2009, 04:03 AM   #65
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Read this: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf

Mobil 1 does very well on most tests.

Last edited by pnosker; 08-05-2009 at 05:59 AM. Reason: spellcheck!
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:03 AM   #66
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Read this: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf

Mobil 1 does very will on most tests.
Wow Patrick, thanks for sharing that. It was a great read and I'm glad I went with mobil1. I had a suspicion that it was a little better than Redline. While Redline did do slightly better in some tests, Mobil1 was more consistant. Redline did however fail the foam test where Mobil1 came out near the top. And they didn't score the patch test, but did you see how dirty the Redline was, OMG! Mobil1 scored second only to AMSOIL!
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:10 PM   #67
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Wow is right, that study is eye opening. I had always thought that RP and Redline were about equal competitors but man was I wrong. I need to find some Amsoil to put in my diff.
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Old 08-05-2009, 04:56 PM   #68
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Well, though it was independent, take it with a grain of salt. A lot of the situations are never even close to hit in a working differential, even on a track. Though I only know of a few people who used RP, they all didn't like it for one reason or another. I say stick with Mobil 1, it's cheap, and it's good. Amsoil is good too, but it's hard to find and more expensive.
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Old 08-06-2009, 03:30 AM   #69
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Ok, I mocked up the diffs next to eachother. The top one is the e28 3.46 LSD with e30 flanges and halfshafts(didn't install the e30 cover yet), the bottom one is the Ti 3.45 small case diff with Ti flanges and halfshafts. Both measured approximately 57" from end to end, the e28/e30 setup is actually about 1/2" shorter. I also measured from center of upper dif mount(between the two bolt holes, not the mount on the cover) to halfshaft end and it was exactly 29" on both diffs. So, being that the e28/e30 halfshaft/flange combo is a little shorter than the stock Ti setup, the halfshafts should go in with no problem and plenty of room to spare if the diff is bolted up first. The reason I'm bolting the diff up first is A) more room to work without the halfshafts, and B) I'm waiting for new CV boots to arrive. When I removed the stock Ti setup, the halfshafts dropped down easily off of the output flanges. So the new setup should have even more room for them to slide up onto the flanges if I install the halfshafts after the diff is hung.

I think the problems Pnosker and Marv ran into was because they used the Ti halfshafts which were too long to use with the medium case diff. Using the e30 halfshafts just makes the install a little easier and might help prevent any excessive stress on the CV joints when the suspension is fully extended. Here's the pic I took of the two setups next to eachother. e28/e30 setup on top, stock Ti setup on bottom:

You can't really tell in the pic, but the medium case is much larger than the Ti diff. Also, I haven't yet installed the e30 cover on the e28 diff in the pic.
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Old 08-19-2009, 04:51 PM   #70
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I finished putting my new differential in yesterday. Here is what I used:

E28 3.46 LSD
E30 cover
E30 flanges
E30 reman axles
E36 oil drain and fill plugs (same threads, but easier to remove)
E36 speed sensor

Everything did fit the first time, but it was very tight, and I noticed some rubbing.

This rubbing was mentioned elsewhere:
" Note: With the M-coupe diff cover, one of the cover bolts touches the trunk floor by a small amount. It probably isn't much of a concern as long as the diff clears the metal pieces."
http://www.318ti.org/notebook/diff_c...ion/index.html

Well, with my combination of parts it was definitely touching too.

There was also a little rubbing near the rubber mount (mentioned before by someone on 318ti.org), and the breather hole (I hadn't heard of this before).

To fix it, I ground out a bit of steel from the mount, and then ground down the bolt on the diff, and pushed the breather vent thing down a bit.





As you can see, I applied some rust blocking paint to seal up the places that had been scratched up.

Everything fits great now. Installation goes a lot easier when nothing is rubbing.

Note: Both of my reman axles had poor splines. I had to clean them up with a steel brush and a file to get them to go in.
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Old 08-19-2009, 04:56 PM   #71
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It seems like some of the 95 and 96 cars have slight rubbing issues. No idea why. Do you have any shots of what you ground down?

EDIT: Nevermind, I see it!
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Old 08-19-2009, 05:33 PM   #72
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My 318ti's build date was 6/96, so that sounds right.

Last edited by Swap_File; 08-19-2009 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 08-19-2009, 05:58 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swap_File View Post
I finished putting my new differential in yesterday. Here is what I used:

E28 3.46 LSD
E30 cover
E30 flanges
E30 reman axles
E36 oil drain and fill plugs (same threads, but easier to remove)
E36 speed sensor


Note: Both of my reman axles had poor splines. I had to clean them up with a steel brush and a file to get them to go in.
That's the exact setup that I'm running except for the speed sensor. I have an e30 sensor with the same plug as the Ti. When I swapped the cover, I pulled out the e28 speed sensor and compared it to the e30's. They were exactly the same except the connectors were different. Anyway, I just finished rebuilding my halfshafts with new grease, boots, dust caps, clamps, snap rings, flange bolts.

I'd say if you paid for remanufactured e30 halfshafts, you got ripped off. I cant really tell the condition of the boots, but I can clearly see that they didn't remove the inner boot clamp which means they didn't remove the inner boot which means they couldn't of replaced the outer boot! Besides that, those are original dust caps. When you install a new cv boot kit, they come with new dust caps. Where'd you get those halfshafts? I'd go get your money back.

Last edited by cooljess76; 08-19-2009 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 08-19-2009, 06:14 PM   #74
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This is what a rebuilt halfshaft should look like, I did these myself:





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Old 08-19-2009, 06:21 PM   #75
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BTW, did you shim your ABS sensors? If not, you'll be replacing them really soon.





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