Door panel issues

[thishardman]

Hey guys I just picked up a 1995 318ti under amazing circumstances. It's a little banged up but I love her. The biggest issue is in the interior at the moment. Both door panels keep falling off, because the pins are broken and the glue is worn off. The passenger side door handle is also torn off. Does anyone know the cheapest way to fix this? right now I just have the door panels ripped off, which doesn't look good.

Also while I'm thinking about it the entire interior is mismatched, so I don't know if anyone knows the cheapest way to pick up some parts to start matching the interior. I've checked the local salvage yards but the only thing close I could find is a 1994 318, which I'm pretty sure wont work.

[GosuTi]

Originally Posted by thishardman

because the pins are broken and the glue is worn off. The passenger side door handle is also torn off. Does anyone know the cheapest way to fix this?

Ebay probably


Glue? I'd try Lowes or Home Depot. Something Strong.

[jca]

Nothing but ti specific interior panels fit. You can find them from time to time on ebay and on this site. We all have trouble with the panels getting loose and/ or falling off. Glue all of the loose plastic pieces you have left, back on the panel with JB Weld. If you are missing just a few the panel will stay tight enough. BMW does not stock replacements, but someone on this site made some up for sale. Worst comes to worst. you can always attach the panels with sheet metal screws. Use BMW screws and you can also get plastic covers for the screw heads which result in a professional finish. Good luck. John

[Bobtail_Bimmer]

If you have the black plastic pieces that glue to the door pannels you can glue them back. As stated us something like jb weld. I used liquid nails and it worked. As for the plastic rivet pieces that actually snap/plug in to the door you can find them on ebay cheap. I got a bix of 50 for $10 shipped. What color is your interior? Check for part outs from other members. Some one might have a parts car with a crappy door pannel that has a good handle they might be willing to part with.

[Jwilks5579]

my 95 318ti is the same way now. did you do anything to your interior yet?

[GosuTi]

I personally got tiredof the clips.... I just got some screws and washers, put them in, and painted them black to match the panel.

[BRADESTAR]

It shouldn't take too long to find a part out close to you if you keep on top of looking.

Reading through these solutions has got me so damned scared to roll my windows down! I'm just going to sweat it out this summer...

Good luck. Might could retrofit some cardboard in the meantime.

[90mx5texas]

Some one used self drilling screws on my car and that was a dead sentence for the panels, since the panel sits away from the door frame the fastener just crushed the panel flat against the door frame causing interference with the weather-stripping door gasket.

Spent four Saturdays all over salvage yards until I just found a complete gray interior to swap It came with gray leather seats, door and rear panels, trunk plastic cover package tray and some and other goodies like a spare tire with bracket and tools.

I will glue the brackets back and replace the clips on the door panels


if you want to use screws some spacers will help the panel from crushing

[jerrytheautodoctor]

ok, so I've tried all of these remedies on customer's cars. the only thing that has worked long-term has been like JCA's post (the screws). now that I own one myself, I appreciate the idea of using BMW's screws with covers. I am very particular about the car and have had poor results from industrial hot glue, liquid nails, JB Weld, and RTV. If anyone has any other adhesives to try, I would appreciate the "heads up", as I don't like punching (or drilling) holes in my baby unless I have to.

[John Firestone]

I used a two-part epoxy with a 90 minute pot time three years ago and it is still holding fine. I first cleaned and abraded the surface with a fairly coarse sandpaper (100-150 grit) and then degreased it with Stoddard solvent. I didn't use a stronger solvent such as Acetone as it may craze and crack the plastic.

Next time, I think I will use a two-part urethane adhesive with a fairly long pot time.

[John Firestone]

Here (Loctite U-09FL) is a promising candidate. You will likely need a dispenser and static mixer to cover much area within the 10 minute pot time.

[jenkinskg]

I used gorrilla glue, soaked in and worked really well, epoxy is not sticky once dry.

[John Firestone]

You can get epoxy to permanently bound to the wood with adequate surface preparation. A classic problem is that wood swells and shrinks as the humidity changes, but the epoxy is stiff and doesn't. The epoxy stays well bonded to each surface but then fractures internally so that you end up with two epoxy coated but now separated surfaces. The door panels are made of molded particle board with less wood, and less expansion and contraction. I couldn't tell how much, in practical terms, from the conflicting reports I have read.

Urethane adhesives such as Gorilla Glue, and the one I suggested, are much more flexible. Gorilla Glue is a one-part adhesive that is activated by the moisture in the air and what you spray on the surface. A two-part urethane adhesive isn't limited by that, and can cure to a considerably greater depth. It also don't expand like Gorilla Glue, which may or may not be a good thing, depending on your preferences and needs. (I like my glue to sit quietly and cure.)

Anyway, just a few thoughts and suggestions.