Ireland Eng. Rear Camber/Toe Install

[Nix328ti]

Hey TIem,

I welded in Ireland Engineering's rear adjustable rear camber/toe kit last spring. I waited to post about the install to see if it worked well. I can say, without question, it works great! I'm using a very low spring kit yielding 4" ground clearance. Obviously causing some pretty serious over camber issues that I simply could not abide.

Without the kit, the car was very darty on turn-in at high speed. Not comforting. After the install the car is very stable and easy to adjust. Pretty great solution! I especially appreciated the threaded 'nut' with the stepped tooth key-way. Makes adjusting a lot easier too.

The car needed minimal modification. I just welded on the new tabs and cleared the slots out afterward. Here's a couple pix of the install:

[Nix328ti]

One thing that didn't match up was the length of the outboard bolt. I thought it best to install it with the bolt head on the inside for better adjustment access. When I put it in that way, it interfered with the Ireland Engineering crossmember bushing. I cut 300 thou off the end of the bolt. Didn't have any problems after that.

Great system! Thanks Ireland! I'll post a pic of the stance shortly.

[Nix328ti]

Here's how it looks in practice:

[BimmerBum]

Nice install. I sell a version of those as well but do not suggest them for most folks. You're car is low but not all that low. My CS is roughly the same height and the rear suspension specs are just fine (-2.6 camber and still in spec on toe in). I'm curious what your alignment specs were before and after install.

Looks like you do some track stuff, solid looking car.

[Nix328ti]

WOW good point. I actually just last week tossed my alignment spec page thinking 'I won't need this anymore' LOL. AND I would now be guessing what they were. That won't be useful to anybody reading...

I guess I can commit to commenting on the adjustability I observed though; There is enough adjustment available after this for pretty much any setting. In the end, I went for something like -2º camber with a little more on the left side (maybe -2.5º) since I was heading for a track day on a right turn heavy track. There was toe out on the right when I first set it on the floor but it was pretty easy to bring the slightest bit toe in on both sides with plenty of room to go either way. I also remember deciding to put the toe closer to neutral on the left side too hoping for better right turn-in.

I felt rewarded for sure though. The car felt very stable at 115mph in turn 2 at Brainard International Speedway. Definitely a turn you want to feel comfortable in.

[BimmerBum]

Did you do subframe bushings at the same time?

Sounds like you might be doing your own alignments?

Sorry for the questions, I'm a bit of a suspension dork.

[Nix328ti]

I do some caveman level alignment stuff myself; Usually I'll get my settings done by someone with better measuring components. I'll admit that I am a huge suspension dork, so I end up asking for pretty specific things when I get it on a rack and have a professional at my disposal.

My other project is a road-course Chevy Vega GT. While it doesn't suffer from the typical super weird GM camber gain front geometry, it was optimized for super tall sidewalls with really crazy slip angles (typical early vintage car). In fact, there was enough built-in slip angle compensation in the steering geometry that it was actually designed to toe in after initial turn in. Really strange to discover that sort of thing.

I ended up fabricating a significant modification to the spindles to move the outer tie rod ends out farther, and converting the car to a rack to get better ackerman. Now it's got lots of extra ackerman.

The rear suspension in that car is something I fabricated from the Miata design: Double wishbone IRS. I modified a stock Miata crossmember to accept a Turbo II 8" center section from the RX7. I also included a rear-mounted alternator that runs off the pinion instead of the engine as an accessory. FUN!

I've been very impressed with the solutions BMW came up with for the suspension geometry. It's just plain so vastly superior in that way.

I just realized I didn't answer your question about the subframe bushings: Yes. I did install some I purchased with the same kit from Ireland, along with control arm bushings too. SUPER squeaky, even after ladling them with silicone grease. I routinely lift the car up and just squirt more in there to mitigate the noise for a while. That said, the rear suspension acts WAY better. More accurate and predictable.

The thing I've noticed now is how much the engine and transmission mounts slop around. I guess that's next. LOL! Never ends.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I creeped your site a bit. Pretty cool! I'll likely be talking with you soon enough.

[BimmerBum]

I suspect the improved turn-in stability you feel has everything to do with the upgraded subframe bushings you did at the same time you did the adjusters. Worn subframe and trailing arm bushings negate any alignment specs.

I suggest OEM E46 M3 engine and transmission mounts. Which reminds me, I really need to put together a page with the specs on my Clubsport build... before I change it again.