» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | 1999 M3 Swap 09-07-2023 10:10 PM 05-02-2024 08:18 PM 6 Replies, 405,294 Views | | | | | | 03-29-2007, 05:05 PM | #16 | Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Cleveland, Oh Posts: 58 | Quote: Originally Posted by robcarync yeah i got a new one....and i think it might have been the 65 dollar one | is it any good? I saw one guy selling those on ebay. I bet it's the same guy you got from. | | | 03-29-2007, 07:47 PM | #17 | Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 15 | So, how hard is to to install one of these guys? Any tips? | | | 03-30-2007, 03:05 AM | #18 | Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Cleveland, Oh Posts: 58 | Quote: Originally Posted by 3rob3 So, how hard is to to install one of these guys? Any tips? | I have never removed the regulator itself, but there are two screws well hidden in the handle for removing the door panel. thats all I know | | | 03-30-2007, 09:57 PM | #19 | Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: atlanta Posts: 145 | Probably in the wrong forum for this discussion, but check out the maintenance section or understeer.com for how to replace. If your regulator hasn't been replaced yet, it will be riveted to the door and the rivets need to be drilled out to replace the regulator. If it has been replaced (which is high probability) you'll be able to skip that step. Otherwise, it's very simple. However, if you're in a real bind at the moment, you can bend the regulator arm back into place with some patience (and carefully so you don't crack the glass). Re-bending may not be perfectly reset enough for a long-term fix, but I've done this on two TI's and the rebend lasted for months until I had time to replace the regulator. Now in terms of replacing it, there are a lot of basic instructions, and even some where folks think it's just a matter of replacing the plastic guides, but that's just what normally contributed to the real problem. If you replace your regulator, PLEASE make sure your window is set properly before after you install the new regulator. Otherwise, it will pop out and bend again only few months later. If your window isn't set correctly (check Bentley) it will lead to a bent regulator more quickly than the poorly engineered plastic guides and very worst case bust the glass (rare, normally just drops down into the door). Also, another tip is to not use the one touch window operation. The window motor runs into it hits resistance. Therefore, if you use your one touch feature it increases the probability that there will be just enough extra force (basic physics versus poorly engineered design) to pop out of the plastic guide and wah lah! bend our regulators. This happens when the plastic guides are wearing out typically. | | | 03-31-2007, 12:12 AM | #20 | Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Cleveland, Oh Posts: 58 | Quote: Originally Posted by atlanta318ti Probably in the wrong forum for this discussion, but check out the maintenance section or understeer.com for how to replace. If your regulator hasn't been replaced yet, it will be riveted to the door and the rivets need to be drilled out to replace the regulator. If it has been replaced (which is high probability) you'll be able to skip that step. Otherwise, it's very simple. However, if you're in a real bind at the moment, you can bend the regulator arm back into place with some patience (and carefully so you don't crack the glass). Re-bending may not be perfectly reset enough for a long-term fix, but I've done this on two TI's and the rebend lasted for months until I had time to replace the regulator. Now in terms of replacing it, there are a lot of basic instructions, and even some where folks think it's just a matter of replacing the plastic guides, but that's just what normally contributed to the real problem. If you replace your regulator, PLEASE make sure your window is set properly before after you install the new regulator. Otherwise, it will pop out and bend again only few months later. If your window isn't set correctly (check Bentley) it will lead to a bent regulator more quickly than the poorly engineered plastic guides and very worst case bust the glass (rare, normally just drops down into the door). Also, another tip is to not use the one touch window operation. The window motor runs into it hits resistance. Therefore, if you use your one touch feature it increases the probability that there will be just enough extra force (basic physics versus poorly engineered design) to pop out of the plastic guide and wah lah! bend our regulators. This happens when the plastic guides are wearing out typically. | this is a good write up, and you are right about one touch opening. speaking about bending back the arm, that's not easy. I tried to do that several times and after a week or so window poped out again. I will try to completely remove the regulator and straithen it this weekend. I let you know how it will work out. does anyone know what size rivets are the best for putting back the regulator into the place? | | | 03-31-2007, 01:07 AM | #21 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: state college, pa Posts: 3,431 | M6 x 3/8 bolts with lock-nuts. In my most recent repair, I used a Teflon dry lube instead of lithium grease. It seems to work well, but I also removed the glass entirely to clean the metal channels. For some reason there were burrs in the metal I figured the clips were getting hung up on. Dremel with a sandpaper attachment took care of it. __________________ I scream, you scream, we all scream for ZOMBIES. | | | 03-31-2007, 02:43 AM | #22 | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ft Lauderdale, Fl moving to Eastern PA in May of 2007 Posts: 326 | Quote: Originally Posted by rimvydazas I have never removed the regulator itself, but there are two screws well hidden in the handle for removing the door panel. thats all I know | Just to set your mind at ease, I replaced both in my car and it goes much quicker with a second set of hands but it is still easy enough by yourself. A new drill bit will make things much easier. I found some nice metric hex nuts at home depot that worked well instead of rivets. They look similar to the hardware that bicycles use to attach the aluminum sprocket to the drive wheel. __________________ 318ti, sport, hellrot, 05/95 Munich, Germany | | | 03-31-2007, 09:41 AM | #23 | Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Cleveland, Oh Posts: 58 | Quote: Originally Posted by aceyx M6 x 3/8 bolts with lock-nuts. In my most recent repair, I used a Teflon dry lube instead of lithium grease. It seems to work well, but I also removed the glass entirely to clean the metal channels. For some reason there were burrs in the metal I figured the clips were getting hung up on. Dremel with a sandpaper attachment took care of it. | hey, did you remove the channels from the doors when cleaning them? I noticed that it's very difficult to reach them. Mine need some allignment... | | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |