 » Site Navigation | | | | » Recent Threads | | | |  |  |  |  03-14-2010, 09:17 PM | #1 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: LA, Bellflower, CA Posts: 3,613 |  I got the shakes
Alright so I recently been having this issue with the ti for a couple of days. My steering wheel shakes as i apply the brakes but if i would brake a little harder it stops vibrating. This only happens as I brake not as i drive. I was wondering if this had anything to do with the control arms, control arm bushings, and/or tie rods?
my ti has a bit over 140k miles on it so that was the first thing that came to mind. Anyone like to help me out what i should do? __________________ 
-Theta Chi-
Float like a cadilac, sting like a BIMMER
.... my socket is just too thick and won't fit in the hole! damnit!
Marv's 332ti is in the werks. Stay tuned ya'll  ...
Check list: S52 swap, manual transmission swap, 3.25 LSD with M Coupe diff cover, SuperSprint muffler, M3 style mirrors, AFE intake, ASC delete, M50 Manifold swap, UUC strut bar, ZHP lighted knob, Vaders, M-tech interior, OEM armrest, AC Schintzer front lip, AC Schnitzer rear spoiler, Roof spoiler, 18'' rims, M3 front drilled brakes, LED interior lights, 3 spoke Euro style steering wheel, OEM roof spoiler and bike holder, Thule fairing, Euro tail lights, oil pressure guage, carbon fiber hood painted to original paint (still showing CF weaving), what's next to do...? |  |  | | 03-14-2010, 09:23 PM | #2 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 9,356 |
My first guess are deposits on the rotors.
When my control arm bushings where shot, harder braking just made it worse.
The front wheels felt like they where off a grocery cart. __________________ ...steven
BMW CCA #146825
1996 BMW 328ti • 2003 MINI Cooper S • 2016 M235i
www.bmwcca.org
| | | | | 03-14-2010, 09:30 PM | #3 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: LA, Bellflower, CA Posts: 3,613 |
rotors are new, only like 11 months old. same with the pads.
it does feel like a grocery cart sometimes. in my case harder braking made it less shakey. __________________
-Theta Chi-
Float like a cadilac, sting like a BIMMER
.... my socket is just too thick and won't fit in the hole! damnit!
Marv's 332ti is in the werks. Stay tuned ya'll ...
Check list: S52 swap, manual transmission swap, 3.25 LSD with M Coupe diff cover, SuperSprint muffler, M3 style mirrors, AFE intake, ASC delete, M50 Manifold swap, UUC strut bar, ZHP lighted knob, Vaders, M-tech interior, OEM armrest, AC Schintzer front lip, AC Schnitzer rear spoiler, Roof spoiler, 18'' rims, M3 front drilled brakes, LED interior lights, 3 spoke Euro style steering wheel, OEM roof spoiler and bike holder, Thule fairing, Euro tail lights, oil pressure guage, carbon fiber hood painted to original paint (still showing CF weaving), what's next to do...? | | | | | 03-14-2010, 09:31 PM | #4 | | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Atlanta Posts: 233 |
I have the same problem, was going to replace the rotors as soon as I can get around to it. | | | | | 03-14-2010, 09:38 PM | #5 | | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rocky Hill, CT Posts: 1,065 |
Marv, there's still a very good chance it's the rotors.
Happend to me a month or two back. They still had ALOT of meat, but had warped and gave the nice shake brake action you're describing. __________________
1995 318TI base. 95 2.5L from 325IS. S50 cams+pistons, e36 M3 front brakes. H&R race springs F+R. Turner Motorsport front sway bars, M3 control arms. M Roadster rear sway bar. Racing Dynamics strut brace. e36 325i 5spd. 3.25lsd from e28 535is. M Roadster short shifter. Conforti chip. | | | | | 03-15-2010, 12:29 AM | #6 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: 43609 Posts: 3,425 |
Def rotors man. You can warp a rotor right after your first drive on them, doesnt matter how old they are. BMW recommends replacing them, but if you want to turn them, 11 months of braking should still have plenty of meat to have them turned. Replace or turn them is my answer. __________________ 1995 Hellrot Clubsport 318ti -Gone 1996 Schwartz II Sport 357ti - 5.7L V8 LS1/6 1997 Moregrun Metallic 318ti - Gone
1998 Schwartz II sport 318ti - M50TUB25/5 | | | | | 03-15-2010, 01:01 AM | #7 | | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Long Beach, SoCal Posts: 373 |
What causes the rotor's to warp? __________________
1998'SportR.I.P.
1995 Sport AlpineIII | | | | | 03-15-2010, 01:10 AM | #8 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: 43609 Posts: 3,425 |
Improper breaking in process, contant hard stops with improper cooling technique, low grade pads, calipers sticking, improper slide surface....basic heat and cooling cycling in improper proportions cause warping. __________________ 1995 Hellrot Clubsport 318ti -Gone 1996 Schwartz II Sport 357ti - 5.7L V8 LS1/6 1997 Moregrun Metallic 318ti - Gone
1998 Schwartz II sport 318ti - M50TUB25/5 | | | | | 03-15-2010, 01:18 AM | #9 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 9,356 |
Quote: Originally Posted by Mr. Crow  What causes the rotor's to warp? | Quote: Originally Posted by Bluebimma Improper breaking in process, constant hard stops with improper cooling technique, low grade pads, calipers sticking, improper slide surface....basic heat and cooling cycling in improper proportions cause warping. | And not properly torquing lug nuts or bolts. Not so much the wrong amount, but different amounts on each bolt. Warped rotors and pad deposits have similar symptoms. Mixing different brake pad compounds. Using the e-brake when the rotors are hot. __________________ ...steven
BMW CCA #146825
1996 BMW 328ti • 2003 MINI Cooper S • 2016 M235i
www.bmwcca.org
| | | | | 03-15-2010, 02:12 AM | #10 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: LA, Bellflower, CA Posts: 3,613 |
hmm... alright, i'll contact bimmerzone to see if there's anything they can do.
and if nothing, then get them surfaced at the local shops. this blows cuz i don't drive it too hard and i torqued them right. maybe it was caused by the one day where it was cold and rainy and some idiot slammed their brakes in front of me; it started to be noticeable not to long ago too.
thanks for the input guys.
should i still replace my control arms and bushings anyways since i have like 140k on the car? __________________
-Theta Chi-
Float like a cadilac, sting like a BIMMER
.... my socket is just too thick and won't fit in the hole! damnit!
Marv's 332ti is in the werks. Stay tuned ya'll ...
Check list: S52 swap, manual transmission swap, 3.25 LSD with M Coupe diff cover, SuperSprint muffler, M3 style mirrors, AFE intake, ASC delete, M50 Manifold swap, UUC strut bar, ZHP lighted knob, Vaders, M-tech interior, OEM armrest, AC Schintzer front lip, AC Schnitzer rear spoiler, Roof spoiler, 18'' rims, M3 front drilled brakes, LED interior lights, 3 spoke Euro style steering wheel, OEM roof spoiler and bike holder, Thule fairing, Euro tail lights, oil pressure guage, carbon fiber hood painted to original paint (still showing CF weaving), what's next to do...? | | | | | 03-15-2010, 02:25 AM | #11 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 9,356 |
Quote: Originally Posted by Marv17 hmm... alright, i'll contact bimmerzone to see if there's anything they can do.
and if nothing, then get them surfaced at the local shops. this blows cuz i don't drive it too hard and i torqued them right. maybe it was caused by the one day where it was cold and rainy and some idiot slammed their brakes in front of me; it started to be noticeable not to long ago too.
thanks for the input guys.
should i still replace my control arms and bushings anyways since i have like 140k on the car? | Cold? What was it, 60 degrees?  It's easy enough to do a visual inspection of the LCA bushings. I don't see any reason to replace the lower control arms unless you are also replacing the ball joint. If it's pad deposits, some hard stomps on the brakes may clean them up. __________________ ...steven
BMW CCA #146825
1996 BMW 328ti • 2003 MINI Cooper S • 2016 M235i
www.bmwcca.org
| | | | | 03-15-2010, 02:45 AM | #12 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: 43609 Posts: 3,425 |
Id recommend doing them, as its not that expensive and you will notice a nice difference compared to worn joints. __________________ 1995 Hellrot Clubsport 318ti -Gone 1996 Schwartz II Sport 357ti - 5.7L V8 LS1/6 1997 Moregrun Metallic 318ti - Gone
1998 Schwartz II sport 318ti - M50TUB25/5 | | | | | 04-21-2010, 02:32 AM | #13 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: back in PA Posts: 204 |
I have exactly the same problem as the OP. ATE rotors and pads were replaced late 2008. Cars sat in my garage for 2009 while I was deployed and pads did get rust /deposits from sitting. I broke in the new brakes correctly...but guess the ATE's might be bad now  I have newer control arms and bushings so I too was thinking it must be the original tie-rods. (119K on the car) New OEM rotors and Akebono front pads will be put on next... | | | | | 04-24-2010, 09:55 PM | #14 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: back in PA Posts: 204 |
...and the OEM rotors ($20 from bimmerworld  ) and pads fixed the problem. Warped ATE Powerslot rotors with about 5K miles on them. | | | | |
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