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Old 08-30-2005, 01:26 PM   #1
stormos
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Default Guide Bolts - Seized Solid! - HELP!!

Guys, my guide bolts on the carriers seem to be fused solid, been spraying with wd40 2 times a day for the last couple of days with little effect, any ideas? also what direction should i be turning the bolts? i tried both but its hard to work it out.....

need to get the dismantled ready for the powder...
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Old 08-30-2005, 03:18 PM   #2
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anyone?
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Old 08-30-2005, 03:53 PM   #3
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stop using WD40. PB-blaster works very well.

hit with a hammer or as a last resort, get at it with a propane torch (just make sure all fluids are GONE!)
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Old 08-30-2005, 04:11 PM   #4
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Do the calipers still work with the guide bolts frozen? I thought the caliper had to slide on those guide bolts to clamp on the pads.

On a side note, I know a guy selling some brand new performance ones on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMESE%3AIT

Quote:
Originally Posted by stormos
Guys, my guide bolts on the carriers seem to be fused solid, been spraying with wd40 2 times a day for the last couple of days with little effect, any ideas? also what direction should i be turning the bolts? i tried both but its hard to work it out.....

need to get the dismantled ready for the powder...
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Old 08-30-2005, 05:51 PM   #5
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i am talking the guide bolts onto the carriers. they'll still work, i just want them off ready for powder.

on another note the garage couldn't air blow the piston out today. aaaahhhhhh
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Old 08-30-2005, 05:58 PM   #6
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PB Blaster isn't available in the UK either
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Old 08-30-2005, 06:14 PM   #7
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there's gotta be some type of specific penetrating spray.

WD40 is an acronym for "water displacement attempt 40," meaning that all it's meant to do is keep things from rusting. it does work as a lubricant, but not very well.


if you can't find anything i'll ask on my motorcycle forum for you.
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Old 08-30-2005, 06:34 PM   #8
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i'd imagine i can get something from camberley autofactors tomorrow... i hope.....
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Old 08-30-2005, 11:40 PM   #9
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is it just a matter of leverage or what? they shouldn't be put in with that much force. it's easier while still on the car, but should be doable off (i did it with the ones i bought used). as aceyx said, some penetrating lubricant/rust breaker would be best. if you have the carrier separated from the rest of the caliper, put it back into the guide bushings so you have a little more to use as leverage when trying to break them free.
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Old 08-31-2005, 02:07 AM   #10
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penetrating oil,, some times called the penetrating lubricant.
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Old 08-31-2005, 02:31 AM   #11
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Default heat is your freind

the trick with removing stuck bolts with heat is to not heat the bolt itself but heat the material that surrounds the threaded hole the bolts go into thus expanding the diameter. propane torch should provide suitable heat but be patient.use the tip of the flame and move the torch around the area to heat. don't be afraid to use some leverage either in the form of a long handled socket wrench or better yet a breaker bar.breaker bar is made to hold standard socket but has no ratcheting action. sometime you can blow out the ratchet before you can apply enough torque needed to loosen the bolt.

as always when working with an open flame take precautions . as some said earlier in the tread be aware of flammable fluids including and penetration oil use on the bolts. keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case.

liquid wrench brand penetrating oil has been around for years and work very good if you can find it.

good luck.
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Old 08-31-2005, 06:21 AM   #12
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watch your breaker bars; if the bolt is seized properly you can end up snapping off the head.

drilling out bolts = no fun. (trust me on that)
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Old 08-31-2005, 07:38 AM   #13
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off to get the oil this morning..... oh joy.....

is it ok to use it on the piston aswell? as the guys in the garage could not air compress it out....
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Old 08-31-2005, 01:00 PM   #14
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it won't hurt the metal, that's for sure. are you saying they used compressed air and they couldn't get the piston ejected from the bore? that would seem quite odd unless the pressure wasn't high enough. it does take a good bit (as well as a good seal on the hydraulic line fitting and a closed bleeder valve) to get it to pop out. when i say "pop out," i mean it. it shoots out so have a piece of wood on the other side for it to hit rather than the brake carrier or something else that might damage it. forget what psi we had to get the compressor up to for it to actually get it to move.
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1996 318ti, California package, 267k miles
current mods: bilstein sports, bavauto springs, e30 m3 LCABs, solid metal ball joints, bavauto RSMs w/reinforcements, e30 3.73 LSD & halfshafts, supersprint cat-back exhaust, turner rear sway bar reinforcements, IE poly subframe & RTABs + camber/toe kits, powdercoated e36 32x front calipers, sport mirrors, H&R 28mmF/19mmR sway bars, x-brace, auto solutions SSK w/poly bushing upgrade, BMW CD43 head unit, DICE HD Radio w/iPod integration and "stealth" HD antenna, staggered style 68s, orange electronic TPMS, leather arm rest, JT Designs metal undertray

acquired and awaiting install: heated seat kit, cali top switch relo, lumbar support kit, park distance control kit, heated washer nozzle kit, m-coupe rear subframe, trailing arms, differential, and halfshafts, m-coupe front/rear brakes with master cylinder, under hood light kit, mud flaps, rear sun blind, auto-dimming rear view mirror, tilt steering wheel retrofit, apexcone 5000K HIDs with 55W ballasts




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Old 08-31-2005, 01:05 PM   #15
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did you have to remove the dust boot first?
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