6cyl Turbo 95ti

[bubela]

I purchased this car in April of '07, not running. Previous owner's had done the S52 motor swap, and then a T66 turbo. I figured out what the issue was and started the (long) learning process from there. I had never owned a BMW or a turbo'd vehicle before. So there was a lot of learning to do!

Once I got it running, I beat on it a little and grenaded second gear in the getrag trans. So I replaced it with a ZF. (for someone reason this was not done before me)

Trans held, but the head gasket didn't. I reused the MLS .140 and it only held for 50 or so miles. My buddy had said if it goes again, I'll help you rebuild the entire engine. So I took him up on it.

The day I pulled my engine, I check my email to see that my boss was letting me go. Ironic. So the engine rebuild turned into a budget "get this car back on the road as cheaply as possible".

I had a good M52 2.8L laying around my shop and decided to strip it down to the rotating assembly and bolt all the S52 parts to it. I'll just let the pictures do the telling from here:

7/19/09
I finally decided now was the time to start working on this thing. Replaced the head gasket once and blew it again because I accidentally boosted 20+psi.
Leakdown test went poorly on cylinders 1+2, and compression was bad on.. I forget, left the info at the shop.
The coolant pressure test went well on a cold motor however. Held steady for an hour. My car always seemed to overheat, and since the day I purchased it (not running) it has never run cool enough that I was comfortable with it. Before I repaired the head gasket the first time, the temps would shoot up under boost.
Chris Man top mount manifold and a PT66 turbo.


Either way, pulled the motor today and plan on stripping it to the block. Hopefully the pistons are still fine. I’ll re-ring them if so. I’m just looking to reuse as many parts as possible that still look good. Definitely on a budget here. Might step down to a smaller MLS (currently have a .140) and use the ARP2000’s. Maybe ring the block/head?? I'm not looking to go big with this thing. In fact, I’m looking to go with a smaller turbo. Anyone have a GT30R that works fine and wants to sell me? I dyno’d 387whp and this car is too much to handle with even that much power. Definitely need boost earlier, and am sure a GT30R will give me the power I can handle.

All this is being done by someone who’s only taken stuff apart while working at a Junkyard. This is my first time taking something apart, and actually (attempting) putting it back together!

I do not recommend pulling a motor by yourself using this: (pain in the ass)



This is as far as I got today. Took all those pain in the ass 11mm's off the exhaust and called it a day.



7/25/09
Finished taking the engine
apart today. Cylinders 5 and 6 have some carnage likely do to detonation, but ironically were also the ones that read best on the leak down and pressure tests.



7/27/09
The car, with me and a full tank of gas weighs 2760. (interior is stripped) Yeah, it can be scary in this car. Traction is the main issue.

I'll work on getting a better picture of these two, and check the head.

Looks like I'm going to need 4 more than 2 pistons.. All six had broken lands on two sides of the piston.



8/29/09
I just used a bore gauge for the first time (with internet instructions no less) If my calculations are correct, one cylinder is off by .035" at the top of the block (from left to right). Is that a lot, or not?

The pistons were all pretty close. 85.85mm - 85.87mm That doesn't matter so much, as I'm going to need other pistons.

I'm trying to get away with using used pistons and (just) a hone. I definitely don't want to bore this block unless I absolutely have to.

Lastly, will a hone take care of this scoring?

[bubela]

9/14/09
It was at this point that I decided to go with a 2.8L M52 that I had in the shop. Stripped it to this point, and bolted all my S52 goodies to it. I think this M52 had about 140,000 miles on it. The cross hatch was still looking good though. We'll see how she holds up.



The .120 MLS and ARP2000's should be here shortly. Put a few new seals on (oil pan, oil filter housing, rear main, water pump, intake, etc) Decided to clean up the aluminum a little bit:



9/16/09
Head's on. Took 3 rounds of torquing to 32#'s before the wrench wouldn't budge.
Manifold and Turbo also mounted.



9/22/09
Thanks Roman, picked up 6 Siemens 60# deka's for $262 to my door.
Motor's in and wired up. Now I'll wait on the deka's and order a wideband. Having no luck finding a used Autronic Analyzer A, and can not afford the $2000 price tag for new. Kevin Black has not gotten back to me, can anyone else get a hold of him?


10/10/09
I ended up purchasing an Autronic Analyzer B model wide band. I have it all hooked up and wired correctly on the first try. The SM2 is reading AFR's perfectly. (That was such a relief)

Per discussion on another thread I have purchased a Tial 50mm BOV with a light spring. That should be here next week and I'll get started on it once it's here. The reason I'm going with the Tial over the GReddy I have now is, a few people agree it is the cause of my 4000-4500 rpm stutter. Apparently it was opening/closing (fluttering) and my MAP pressure was coinciding with the flutter every 1/2 second. It was mentioned that the GReddy is not reliable past 20psi, and I was unknowingly pushing 22-23psi on the old motor (hence the reason for a "new" motor!)

(edit: Jon K ended up fixing this problem with his magic fingers and a laptop while driving around holding the RPM’s in the problem area)

I put a smaller .6 bar spring in the Tial Wastgate down from the .9 bar. Also rerouted the line from the turbo to the WG, bypassing my manual boost controller. I wanted to eliminate as many possibilities for why I was over boosting/creeping. Hopefully with the 8.7 pound spring in there, I'll see at most 15-16psi. Which is right where I want to be.


I'm tempted to take it for a ride today, but scared. Everything has gone so smoothly on this rebuild, that I'm sure I'm overlooking something that will lead to problems. I've really taken my time and want to be cautious with it this time around. (not like me) Last time I replaced the head gasket, I was out there WOT for 6 passes on a long straight road. Shortly after that, the gasket was done.

I really have no idea if driving the car with the current tune, is safe. I've never tuned a car, only watched once when it was being tuned. I've done a little research and know that I want to stay under 14.7 stoich, more so at higher rpms (10-11). I'd like to use the Autotune function of the SM2.. is that a reliable method of tuning for safe use?

10/14/09
Out with the old and in with the new.
The Tial unit is much nicer indeed. Also much larger. Looks like it would flow twice as much air. Heck, the diameter is almost twice as large. Nice packaging as well.

[bubela]

10/20/09
Here's a picture of how great a welder I am.



10/25/09
I can not thank Jay and Jon enough for their help today. I trailer my car to Jays garage, and after a few hours of both of them working with the ecu, I would have been able to drive my car home.

Seriously, thank you guys so much.

Now, I hope you guys gave me a real conservative tune, because I'm about to boost the isht out of this thing!!

10/26/09
Dudes. It's still running! A little rich on idle now. AFR dips to 9, and idles at 500rpm. Little stutter off the idle, not bad.

I'll work on the small stuff soon.

I really can't believe that the two of you, nonchalantly messed around with a laptop and my car, and got it to run as well as it is right now. It may not be "stock" but it has for sure, never run better.

Seriously, thank you so much.

I guess I’m of simple mind, ahy? Because I’m so “blown away” by what you’ve been able to do for me. That’s okay, I’m happy in my blissful ignorant euphoria! Simple man, simple mind, bigger hammer!

Yeah, I’ll have to dial it back some on the start up. However, it’s actually giving me the
9 AFR reading while fully warmed up.

I’ll look around on the Autronic form to see how to unlock the AFR table. I’m a little scared to lean anything out, but I suppose at Low RPM’s, it’s not as sensitive? I mean, it is pretty rich while tooling around out of boost.

As for cruising around decently: It’s not like driving my beloved Metro, but it does have manners it has never had before. I’m so use to feathering the throttle to keep it from stalling, that I can’t give an honest answer. I think it stalled on me once, but it is definitely a lot better than it ever has been. I’ll try letting the RPM’s fall on their own more often, and see what happens. I know I have let them fall a few times, and it’s been fine. But like I said, half the time I just don’t let that scenario even occur.

Anything off idle is great. I don’t notice the 4300ish rpm stutter/sputter at all while driving it. Other than these couple issues, the car runs great. It steps out when I want it to. Running aprox 10psi, the car handles a lot nicer. I’m sure I’m in the low 300 hp range, but that’s fine for now. Driving on (the Mexican) 422 around midnight was kinda scary. That brings up another point:

The 2.93LSD that I replaced my 3.25LSD with, makes a noticeable difference. Definitely stretches out the gears a decent amount. I like it because my turbo spools so late. Seems to allow me to plant the power a little better. 4th gear can be used on the highway, and 3rd is a passing gear while doing 60mph. 5th cruises at 65mph turning about 2300 rpms. Don’t quote me on that, as my memory is crap.

Oh, FYI on that 4300rpm stutter issue, it may not have been the BOV after all. Jon was able to tweek the fuel table in that RPM area to make it all but non-existent. Something apparently was very wrong with my tuned cal file. Assuming J+J know what they’re doing, stuff was definitely not right. Perhaps the SM2 somehow lost the correct info? Who knows.

11/8/09
A little update two weeks after the resurrection:

Only had it out a couple times. Each time seems to get better. Boosting close to 10psi, my waste gate opens around 6k. I’ve been working on my launch and shifting every chance I get.

(knock on wood) no issue with the head lifting. Granted I’m only seeing about 10psi, but it is a delight none the less. I have a 192 tstat and I see 190-195 when warm. (just have to make sure the coolant stays in there!). Granted, it’s been in the 50’s lately. Overheating was a major issue before.

My buddy with a 335 happened to stop by yesterday, and I scared him with a ride. I live on a decent straight road, but he wouldn’t man up for a race. “I said I’ll take the left lane, but I won’t be in it for long after I pass you.”

I like the diff I have in there, but at the same time I think it might be too tall (2.93 LSD). If I recall correctly, the top of 3rd is about 90mph. Traction is a lot better though. That said, I’m probably making a bit less HP than I was when my motor went.

Maybe I’ll wash the New Sweden marks off today. She hasn’t had a wash in over a year. Lots of dust to get ride of.
I can wash the New Sweden off of her, but she’ll always have New Sweden in her heart!

[bubela]

The lower radiator hose was touching the wastegate tube, so I had to make this to keep things happy.



I was seeing a lot less boost for this reason:



So I created this ugly thing:



Worked out well:

[FNEG]

nice i would like to see vids of this thing running. how does it drive. is traction a pain. i will find this all out one day.

[bubela]

There's a video of it in the 1/4 mile somewhere on the net. Not sure where, and there's no video of the end. My friend was holding the camera and stood up (and dropped the camera down) when I started to go sideways through the trap. Talk about an adrenalin rush..

I'll get some video some day. Maybe this weekend. I'm going up to a buddies garage that has a bunch of fun stuff. Vbox, mounting cameras, etc. We're gona tune it a little better, maybe turn up the boost???

Right now, traction is pretty decent. The 2.93LSD helps a little, and only running 8-10psi helps as well. I was running aprox 20psi before the rebuild, and traction (on top of the 3.23LSD) was hard to get. With these hatches, and a stripped interior, there's little weight over the rear tires. I'll probably put the rear seats back in some day.

Other than that, it drives like a bat out of hell. Scary fast (for me). I've never been in a faster car. I've driven an '07 GT500, and been in an 80's Porsche 911.. Definitely faster than either. Handles like a go kart. Smooth up to 120mph.. and gets there quick.

Love this car.

[projekt EPiK]

install a good set of coilovers and corner weight the car. if you are looking for hook at the strip, get a set with adjustable rebound/damper and it will allow weight transfer to the rear when launching. nice project, car looks great.. perfect sleeper.

[tiFreak]

awesome project, glad you were able to get it back on the road on a budget

[bubela]

Thanks for the tip on hooking at the drag slip. I'm not sure I really want to mess with it just yet. It handles very well on the road, which is where I want it to be. I'll take it to a track rental some time next year and try to get my time down. I want to get a "real life" time. Whatever it does, it does. No big deal.

It's a real sleeper, until the waste gate opens to atmo.. Very loud.

So much fun to drive this thing. Someone set it up very nicely for a track. Rides like hell if you were to daily drive it. I bought these (4) 255/40/R17's off my ex last year, and I'm not digging the 9" wide wheels up front. Likes to find ruts in the road and track them. We'll see what comes along and if I change it.

Anyone know how wide a tire you can stuff in the back? (17" wheel)

[ja12ke]

very cool. i love the swap+turbo. i see ur welding skills are some stiff competition to mine lol. what rpms do u spool at? and im sure i just missed it but did u find a gt30r or are u still running that big beast?

[bubela]

Still using the beast. I "start" seeing boost around 3000-3500, but doesn't really kick you in the pants until 4500 rpm.

Ah, so you enter welding competitions as well? I usually win my local welding comps.

Also just picked up a couple DSII's 7.5". Need some 235's to stick on them up front.. and will probably go with the Toyo T1R 265/40/R17 in the rears sooner or later.

[BMW_Hatchback]

awesome project, do you think you're ready to Dyno? Nice rear strut too, the guys on here say they don't improve much of anything. its all about the butt strut

[BMW_Hatchback]

you look like a happy camper


whats up with this one? LOL random dog in the back

[bubela]

Actually I was planning on tweaking the tune a little bit this Saturday with a buddy of mine. However, I just saw that Mike at MaximumPSI is having a dyno day this Saturday. Might try to tune dial it in a bit, then head over there to end the day. We'll see.
It dyno'd 387whp on the old motor, and I'd guess it's somewhere around 300whp right now. Not too worried about the numbers, but would be fun to know.
The rear strut came with the car. I don't know how it effects handling, honestly.
The second picture with the girl and the dog is actually another ti all together (hers). Driving her M3ti was the reason I purchased mine. It is too slow for me now.

[Will'sBimmer]

Very nice car. I hope to be able to do this to mine one day so I can have a Ti beast. Keep up the good work man.