OBD Code P1423

[surechap]

I'm getting this code on my 97 318ti, what should I look for? I searched online and it's something with the air pump. The ti engine is so confusing I'm not sure what I'm doing.

[surechap]

Ok I figured out the problem. On closer inspection I notice the rivets of the air pump have fallen off. I'm not planning to spend the $400 to replace it, but instead I'm try to replace the rivets with bolts. I'm posting on here to help those that might have the same problem. I'll report back if I'm successful with the cheap fix.

[surechap]

Anyone know the procedure to remove the air pump? I'm not very car savy, and I haven't been able to find any guides online on removing the air pump. Just winging it I think I just remove the air filter hose thingy, nothing else should be in the way of the air pump.

[cooljess76]

Secondary air pump rivet failure is a common issue on these cars. Myself and several others have replaced the rivets with nuts and bolts. As for removal, disconnect the hose and you can either unbolt the bracket and remove it as an assembly or simply slide the rubber bushing off of the bracket.

[surechap]

I fixed the rivets and the pump is working fine. After about 20 to 30 miles of driving the check engine light comes on again with the same problem. This time I suspect the control valve. With the car on I can hear the valve making a clicking noise. Here's what I've found

I'm not sure if this much carbon buildup is normal? It was also really wet in there when I first removed it. I'm going to clean it out, but I am worried about the part I can't clean off in the engine. Sucking on the other hose not connected to the air pump I am able to open and close the valve. I might replace this hose as it was cracked. I also suspect the egr valve thingy as well I'll update with progress.

[surechap]

Update: I cleaned out the shut off valve (egr valve) #15 on the diagram with carb cleaner, there was a lot of carbon buildup, but nothing that should have prevented it from operating normally. I have read online that you should not use this type of cleaner because it is oil based and break cleaner is an better alternative, but I decided to use it anyways because that was what I had at hand.

The shut off valve seemed OK and in working order so I decided to trace the vacuum line to the electric valve part #10 on the diagram. On closer observation one of the vacuum lines was completely disconnected part #9. After 15 years the line had deteriorated. I replaced all the vacuum lines cleaned out all necessary parts and placed everything back together. Turning the car after everything the car sounded real smooth.

My rough idle problems seem to disappear, I mentioned this in another post. I'm not sure if this was a coincidence, someone more knowledgeable please fill me in. After all this work I suspected the air pump would at least turn on because the car was cold, but it didn't. I'm not sure if the electric valve part #10 (now properly connected with a vacuum line #9) told the pump not to turn on. I am certain before my fix that the pump was working so I am not 100% certain if this just a normal part of operation.

I have erased all engine codes, and will check to see if the pump will blow tomorrow (my engine is warm). It is about 100 degrees outside so I'm not sure if the pump should even turn on. Before my fix it turned on regardless of outside temperature and only when the engine temperature was warm it would not turn on.

I will update later with my observations, hopefully the pump not turning on is normal because of the new fix.

I apologize for my grammar I am a quite tired. Hopefully this helps someone who might encounter the same problem.

[95-318ti.beantown]

any updates?

[surechap]

Originally Posted by 95-318ti.beantown

any updates?

Car runs fine now, code is gone and never came back. When I redid the cooling system I noticed all the vacuum hoses were cracked and deteriorated so I replaced the ones I could get to. Before my car struggled going uphill a lot, but after replacing the hose near the alternator it climbs things super easy .

Let me know if you have any questions. It's been awhile since I did the fix and my memories not too good.

[BlackBMWs]

Surechap,

Thanks for jotting all this down. I am now getting the code so, I'll go through the same clues. Anybody have any more recent experiences? Thanks!

[BlackBMWs]

Originally Posted by cooljess76

Secondary air pump rivet failure is a common issue on these cars. Myself and several others have replaced the rivets with nuts and bolts. As for removal, disconnect the hose and you can either unbolt the bracket and remove it as an assembly or simply slide the rubber bushing off of the bracket.

I'll pull the air pump this weekend, but can someone describe which rivets fail here? I'm asking to get an advance idea of what the probable fix is. A pic would be great. Thanks!

[BlackBMWs]

Cleared codes last week, drove around, only P1423 reemerged. Arrgghh, I ws going to swap diffs today. o well.

So, I'll check the hose and pump. Are folks referring to the rivets in the top of the pump?



I'll be pulling it out by the time you read this, but any additional feedback would be good. Thanks!

[BlackBMWs]

OK,

Hard hose is intact, no cracks and seems to seal tight. Clips on both end are intact.


Pulled the air pump: visual inspection all rivets look fine no gaps in the seams between top bottom and middle pieces the rivets secure. Plastic clips are all also intact.



Checked for 12v at the red/yellow wire coming into the pump with ignition on. No voltage, but looked in ETK and Bentley and there is a relay from the air pump. Not sure how to test the inbound power.


Applied 12V directly to the air pump. Nothing. May seem obvious, but do these pumps generally fail? I'll cross check PN# and head out to the yards to see if I can locate an operating one after lunch as a new one is $350.


Interesting that this PN# does not show up in REALOem. am I reading it correctly? 1172 1 432 593

Thanks for reading, feedback welcome.