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Old 01-09-2007, 02:49 AM   #1
L84THSKY
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Default Brake wear sensor

My light was flickering this weekend, now it's on steady. Assuming the pads are really in need of replacement, how much time from when the light came on, do I have to do the work?

I was planning on checking the pads this coming weekend, and ordering new ones if they are worn out.
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Old 01-09-2007, 02:52 AM   #2
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If you're just doing pads (no rotors), the job takes only an hour. Might as well order them.
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Old 01-09-2007, 03:12 AM   #3
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depends on how much and how you drive. Could be a week, could be a month. If they are stock pads, quite a while, I'd say, if you are easy on the brakes.
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Old 01-09-2007, 03:21 AM   #4
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I put the Axxis Ultimate pads in during the summer of 2005. As long as they make it for a week or two, I'm good.


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depends on how much and how you drive. Could be a week, could be a month. If they are stock pads, quite a while, I'd say, if you are easy on the brakes.
-P
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Old 01-09-2007, 04:27 AM   #5
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The might not be even gone,the wire could've melted away or got damaged and the light came on. I'm just saying that cause a month after i put new pads and rotors on my light came on and i was like wtf. I took the tire off and noticed the wire was rubbing on the inside of the rim and it snapped it in two.

You've done that much driving in a year to need new pads? You must do alot of city driving?
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Old 01-16-2007, 03:03 AM   #6
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Default replace everything

i heard you cant replace JUST the pads but you have to replace the rotors pads and sensor. what do you think?
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Old 01-16-2007, 03:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
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i heard you cant replace JUST the pads but you have to replace the rotors pads and sensor. what do you think?
Depends.
Dealers and shops like to replace rotors and pads to prevent possible problems. You can develop pad deposits on the rotor which might make the bakers shudder. Then the dealer shop has a pissed off customer and may have to eat the labor to replace the rotors. Sometimes by the time the pads are worn down, so are the rotors. Brake pad sensors become brittle and the wires fray. So no, you don't have to change everything, only what is needed. BUT, you may have problems in the near future. Or not.
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Old 01-16-2007, 04:48 AM   #8
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That's what happened, it happened to me 6 months ago as well.

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The might not be even gone,the wire could've melted away or got damaged and the light came on. I'm just saying that cause a month after i put new pads and rotors on my light came on and i was like wtf. I took the tire off and noticed the wire was rubbing on the inside of the rim and it snapped it in two.
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Old 01-17-2007, 02:46 AM   #9
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Is there an easy way to check the sensor myself instead of taking it to a mechanic (bastards charge to much)?
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Old 01-17-2007, 02:48 AM   #10
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If the sensor is bad, you most likely will see a damaged wire. Just remove the wheel and inspect the wire.

Quote:
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Is there an easy way to check the sensor myself instead of taking it to a mechanic (bastards charge to much)?
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Old 01-17-2007, 02:48 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Is there an easy way to check the sensor myself instead of taking it to a mechanic (bastards charge to much)?
I suppose you can disconnect it and use an ohm meter. But sensors either work or they don't. Are you trying to figure which sensor is bad?
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Old 01-17-2007, 04:19 AM   #12
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The sensors are useless unless you don't regularly check your car. I pull the wheels and rotate them with every oil change as well as check the brakes, plugs and fluids. Usually spend about an hour each month or so. If you're like me, you could just chop the sensor wire thats bad and splice the two ends together to complete the circuit, tape it up and out of the way and call it good. The caliper itself has a cutout so that you can visually inspect the pad life. Or with a tiny inspection mirror like the dentists use, you can check them without removing the wheels.
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Old 01-17-2007, 10:53 PM   #13
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Found this pic on Pelican Parts website. From looking at this picture, is the sensor only supposed to go in one way? I don't recall if it will only go in one way or not. From the look of it, the pad can only make contact with that metal clip if the sensor is facing a certain direction. I've never gotten to the point where the sensor would actually come on due to worn pads. My bad luck has been with the wire breaking.



Do you think I can relieve some problems by using a rear sensor in the front? This would reduce extra wire from dangling.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996 328ti View Post
I suppose you can disconnect it and use an ohm meter. But sensors either work or they don't. Are you trying to figure which sensor is bad?
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Old 01-17-2007, 11:20 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L84THSKY View Post
Found this pic on Pelican Parts website. From looking at this picture, is the sensor only supposed to go in one way? I don't recall if it will only go in one way or not. From the look of it, the pad can only make contact with that metal clip if the sensor is facing a certain direction. I've never gotten to the point where the sensor would actually come on due to worn pads. My bad luck has been with the wiring breaking.



Do you think I can relieve some problems by using a rear sensor in the front? This would reduce extra wire from dangling.
The sensor fits one way; with the nipple facing the rotor.
Since you're replacing pads just go ahead and replace the sensor; not expensive.

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Old 01-18-2007, 12:13 AM   #15
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L8, the sensor should be kept away from the wheel by the brake bleeder nipple cap, or should be just long enough to reach the plug when installed correctly (depends on car.) The plug should clip securely to the brake backing plate. Front sensor may not work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996 328ti View Post
Depends.
Dealers and shops like to replace rotors and pads to prevent possible problems. You can develop pad deposits on the rotor which might make the bakers shudder. Then the dealer shop has a pissed off customer and may have to eat the labor to replace the rotors. Sometimes by the time the pads are worn down, so are the rotors. Brake pad sensors become brittle and the wires fray. So no, you don't have to change everything, only what is needed. BUT, you may have problems in the near future. Or not.
Exactly. That, and most people have worn the rotors close to the wear limit by the time they need pads. It depends heavily upon which pads you use. With factory pads, the rotors are usually done by the time it needs pads. Here in VA, an inspection station can reject a car if the rotors are thinner than the limit regardless of pad life. Pissed off customer indeed. "Well, looks like we'll have to charge you to do them again even though you just did them last month- we can't use old pads on new rotors..."

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaNO View Post
Is there an easy way to check the sensor myself instead of taking it to a mechanic (bastards charge to much)?
<rant>
Learn to work on it yourself. If you can't, think about how much it costs to run a shop, buy the tools, and learn about all of the cars that may come in. If we are sooo expensive, then maybe you could do it cheaper? If not, ask yourself this, do you try to find the cheapest doctor for a heart transplant? Used to be that people knew how to check over their car by themselves. Not so much anymore. Where do they get off telling us how much to charge? If your mechanic doesn't just look over the car to check the brakes and other things every time you bring it in for an oil change, maybe you should find a different mechanic. Or, learn how to do it yourself. Most community colleges teach an auto shop class...
</rant>
-P
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