What did I do wrong?

[wodcutr]

Just about done with my S52 swap and decided to try and dial in my front wheel alignment before I tried to drive it on the road for the first time. I certainly have to adjust the tie rods out as the wheels are both turned in way too much, but on further inspection I also noticed that I actually have positive camber up front too.

I measured it with a level and the top of the tire is leaning out about 1/8" further than the bottom. On my real E36 M3 sedan the tire is leaning in about 1/2" so it has negative camber. This is the setup that I have on the car... control arms and CABs from a 97 M3 sedan as well as the struts, springs, sway bar and offset top hats. Ti knuckles with brand new bearings and hubs and new 328i vented rotors and brake calipers.

I have M3 knuckles from a 95, but found out that I could not use the 328i brake components that I already had. I would need to buy M3 carriers, calipers, rotors, and pads to use those knuckles. I also don't have 17" wheels to fit over those calipers so that would cost even more to go that route.

So I figure that the reason I am getting positive camber is because of the ti knuckles being used with everything else being 96+ M3 stuff. Do I have to use the M3 knuckles or can this be fixed by swapping the left and right offset top hats? I want this car to drive like my M3 does only better because it weighs less! I also figured that the 328i brake components should be adequate enough to provide the stopping power on the ti, a lighter car. This car will not be seeing any track days from me as I am an old fart, so I did not see the need to spend the money on the M3 brakes and wheels. Please correct me if I am wrong.

The mega negative camber in the rear is a whole different issue that I suppose I will have to live with using the Z3M rear springs and shocks I bought from another forum member. He said his rear tire wear was not that bad of an issue. We shall soon see! In the meantime, what do I need to do to correct my front end? Thanks!

[spidertri]

If you swap the top hats you'll definitely have negative camber. I ran a setup of all ti suspension parts with swapped M3 top hats and I got -3deg camber on both sides.

Ideally, -2 to -2.5 camber makes for a nice street setup. Keep toe close to zero but slightly in and you shouldn't have problems with tire wear.

The knuckles are definitely different, I don't remember if the control arms have a different geometry or just that the balljoints are beefier. Where does your wheel sit in the wheel arch (caster)?

[wodcutr]

I will have to specifically look at that but I think it is pushed a little forward and sits closer to the front bumper. I don't think it is centered in that there is an equal distance of space on either side. It certainly isn't enough for me to have concern over. I will compare it to my M3.

So put the right hat on the left strut and my geometry will be good? Will it be the same as if I had the M3 knuckles?

[spidertri]

No the m3 knuckles are different, I'm not sure what specs you'll end up with that combination of parts but swapping hats is your only option at this point to get negative camber.

People with m3s swap their hats for more negative camber and I believe it gets them around -3.5deg. I think the 96+ m3 knuckle has more camber built in. I'd imagine when you swap hats you'll be around -2.5 to -3deg.

You put left hat on right strut and vice versa. Arrows still point forward. Strut nut should sit closer to the engine bay.

[wodcutr]

Ok I will try it and report back!

[wodcutr]

How strange is this...I adjusted my toe to be about where I think it should be which ended up lengthening the tie rods by 1&1/2 turns each side and after I got the car back on the ground the wheels had about the same negative camber as on my M3 sedan. So by getting my wheels straight so to speak the top of the wheels came in by about 1/2". I don't think I will need to swap the top hats after all. The real test will be on an alignment rack but for now I think the camber is right.

Also looked at my wheel as far as being centered in the opening and it seems to be similar to the M, not completely centered but slightly forward a tiny bit. I think the M knuckle and the ti knuckle have the same geometry with the only difference being the M allows you to use the larger brake components.