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Old 12-08-2017, 02:49 AM   #1
anassa
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Default Question: ti m52 swap driveshaft/trans brace ?

Quick question for those with swaps or know/have done it.

Right now I have m52+zf trans in my 318ti bolted to a medium case diff. When I look up at the shifter boot location from under the car it looks like the shifter is not centered, its pushed to the left (driver side), when shifting it also doesn't feel lined up and is easier to misshift - fifth gear require me to push all the way right and up to make sure it goes in, third gear also can be hard to find. The trans brace seems like has been moved or drilled in , lastly I am not sure what driveshaft has been used, the U-joint at the end is getting old and I am fairly sure its causing a clunk in the back (Subframe/trailing arm/diff bushings are all poly bushings already).

So for 318ti with m52+ZF trans and medium size diff.
- What driveshaft? Stock 328i/is driveshaft work?
- What trans brace? Stock zf e36 m3/328 trans brace?
- Or shifter is bent wrong? Kinda like the z3m shifter needs to be bent?



Its been bugging me or a while not being able to get smooth shifts and I am thinking of replacing the driveshaft (Guibo and CSB already done) so I want to make sure to get the right one.

Thanks!
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Old 12-09-2017, 01:53 AM   #2
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I have the same M52 swap except I have the getrag 250 transmission. I have the same issue as you. My shift lever sits too far to the right, and although my driveshaft bolts up and spins freely, it's a bit tight around the guibo. My car isn't hard to get in gear though, maybe because I have the Z3 short shifter.

Check the motor mounts. You could either have the wrong motor mounts, or you have the correct ones and they are clocked incorrectly, causing the whole power train to be crooked in the car. Make sure you have E36 M3 mounts.

That's what's wrong with mine. Not sure about you, but it might the same issue. Although my car drives awesome, it's not something I want to drive that way for much longer cause it's eventually going to cause premature wear on the motor mounts, driveshaft hanger and guibo. It's the first thing to be fixed come springtime.

Hope I helped.

Last edited by Diavel; 12-09-2017 at 01:59 AM.
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Old 12-09-2017, 03:01 PM   #3
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For my m52+getrag swap I used the stock ti driveshaft and compressed it as much as possible. Honestly, it works, but I don't like how jammed in there it is.

You can go on realoem and look at the driveshaft lengths for the 318i, 325i, and 328i and see how the m44+getrag, M50+getrag, and m52+zf change the driveshaft lengths. Also the 323ti which I believe is a m52+getrag? Anyway that was a way I used to figure out the length difference between the engine/trans combos.

So I figured that the m52 and getrag is basically the same as the 325is (M50+getrag) and I was able to get the correct selector rod to put the shifter in the correct place. There were several slightly different length versions and I chose the wrong one first (328i version) and it messed up where the shifter was. I ended up buying the 9/'94+ 325is dssr from AKG to fit my m52+getrag.

For the trans brace, I used the stock ti brace, it has several holes and a different set lined up with everything.
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:14 PM   #4
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Thanks Diavi! I never thought about the motor mounts, I will try to loosen my trans and motor mounts and see if I can try to straiten it out a bit.

@spiderti - for me its the opposite, the driveshaft seems a little too short and not completely compressed together, but it still has a good enough contact area between the two halves of the driveshaft.

If trying to play with the motor mount don't work I will look up lengths and see what comes up on realOEM, like Daivi said it spins freely enough, I have 10k miles on the swap already but I don't like the shifting and how the guibo and CSB will probably wear out faster. I think the alignment (not being centered) also caused the shifter rod gasket - the one on the trans, to leak. There is no point in getting the gasket replaced if it will leak again after a while. So gotta figure this out!
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:03 PM   #5
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No problem! Glad I could help. I'm still fine tuning my swap too, so hopefully you and I can bounce ideas off each other. My car is in winter storage at the moment, so nothing is getting done for a few months. Not all of us have perfect weather year round.
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Old 12-12-2017, 06:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diavel View Post
No problem! Glad I could help. I'm still fine tuning my swap too, so hopefully you and I can bounce ideas off each other. My car is in winter storage at the moment, so nothing is getting done for a few months. Not all of us have perfect weather year round.
Sounds good, for me I just like my driveline to be tight with minimal play and get the free reving feeling whole RPM range, without feeling any kind or resistance or something like that.

As for the weather, well you could always move! But you would have to deal with our smog laws that people love to complain about. I personally don't mind that much. Oh and the chance or earthquakes and of course the fires.

Its fine, I have had my swap in and driving as a daily since last year Christmas time and I am still trying get it perfect, so it takes me a long time too!
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Old 12-14-2017, 03:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anassa View Post
Sounds good, for me I just like my driveline to be tight with minimal play and get the free reving feeling whole RPM range, without feeling any kind or resistance or something like that.

As for the weather, well you could always move! But you would have to deal with our smog laws that people love to complain about. I personally don't mind that much. Oh and the chance or earthquakes and of course the fires.

Its fine, I have had my swap in and driving as a daily since last year Christmas time and I am still trying get it perfect, so it takes me a long time too!
The one (only) good thing about Illinois is I don't have to worry about getting my Ti emissions tested due to it being 1995 or older. (OBDI)
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Old 12-15-2017, 06:23 PM   #8
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I used the ZF transmission, trans crossmember, shifter and driveshaft out of a wrecked 1997 328ic convertible, bolted up to a medium-case E28 differential. This all fit without modification and the shifter was centered in the console. I use E36 M3 motor mounts and stock rubber trans mounts; I originally used poly trans mounts, but it buzzed too much with my single-mass flywheel. I had to clearance the welded-in chassis brace to clear the differential (that could be your clunk) with a BFH, and I used poly bushings for the rear suspension crossmember to limit twist (and possible clunking, which happens slightly when in reverse). This was my setup with the M52, but when I swapped in the S52 I swapped in a Z3 shifter and it is still centered.
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Old 12-15-2017, 06:28 PM   #9
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One more thing: if you end up pulling your trans, think about replacing the detent pins -- there are write-ups on BF, and post #37 in http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38844 shows the tools I spun up for the job. The new pins/covers kit is about $75 from Pelican. PM me if you wanna tackle this job and we'll figure out how to loan the tools.
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Sleeper Calypsorot 1996 318ti tintop. CA-legal swapped S52 from '98 M3, and ZF transmission with lightened flywheel/clutch. Magnaflow 2-into-1 muffler. Six-cylinder Eibach springs in front and 318ti H&R Sport springs in rear. Koni Sport adjustable dampers all around. Racing Dynamics 28mm & 19mm swaybars. M3 front hubs/brakes, E34 rear calipers, braided SS brake lines, Hawk HP-S pads. DS-II wheels. Polyflex purple bushings throughout, and factory lower x-brace. Fan delete mod. Engine mount reinforcements welded-in. 3.25 LSD rear diff from E28 & E30 axles.
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Old 12-17-2017, 07:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diavel View Post
The one (only) good thing about Illinois is I don't have to worry about getting my Ti emissions tested due to it being 1995 or older. (OBDI)
Not fair.... but honestly here in SoCal if 1995 cars and older didn't have to smog... It would be nuts - all the civics/240s/datsuns/BMW's (basically any car with a enthusiast base) etc there are SOO many cars that people would just start bolting turbo's on or doing crazy swaps on.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Strawman View Post
One more thing: if you end up pulling your trans, think about replacing the detent pins -- there are write-ups on BF, and post #37 in http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38844 shows the tools I spun up for the job. The new pins/covers kit is about $75 from Pelican. PM me if you wanna tackle this job and we'll figure out how to loan the tools.
Hey Strawman!
I'm honestly trying to keep it simple. Not really wanting to pull the trans if I don't have to!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strawman View Post
I used the ZF transmission, trans crossmember, shifter and driveshaft out of a wrecked 1997 328ic convertible, bolted up to a medium-case E28 differential. This all fit without modification and the shifter was centered in the console. I use E36 M3 motor mounts and stock rubber trans mounts; I originally used poly trans mounts, but it buzzed too much with my single-mass flywheel. I had to clearance the welded-in chassis brace to clear the differential (that could be your clunk) with a BFH, and I used poly bushings for the rear suspension crossmember to limit twist (and possible clunking, which happens slightly when in reverse). This was my setup with the M52, but when I swapped in the S52 I swapped in a Z3 shifter and it is still centered.
That is some great info! I will look into it, but now at least it is confirmed for me that strait 328 ZF trans etc will work, now I just need to make sure no getrag parts made it in there by accident. Once its all set and I am happy I gotta come up and see how my m52 runs against your s52. It would be interesting, see if the m52 w/s52 head + 3.46diff would be comparable against your s52 + 2.93 diff - if you still are running that diff!
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Old 12-17-2017, 09:09 AM   #11
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I just realized, I might be using a getrag selector rod! That might be the cause.
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