318ti.org forum

Go Back   318ti.org forum > Technical, Maintenance and Modifications > Knowledge Base

Notices

Knowledge Base How to articles and things explained.

.
» Recent Threads
looove
04-16-2024 01:18 PM
Last post by RichardBug
04-16-2024 01:18 PM
0 Comments, 352 Views
Brakes - soft pedal and...
04-14-2024 01:02 PM
Last post by bcp
04-14-2024 01:09 PM
1 Comments, 930 Views
lolita porn
04-13-2024 11:45 PM
Last post by Josephtus
04-13-2024 11:45 PM
0 Comments, 209 Views
lolita porn
04-13-2024 11:43 PM
Last post by Josephtus
04-13-2024 11:44 PM
1 Comments, 135 Views
lolita porn
04-13-2024 11:40 PM
Last post by Josephtus
04-13-2024 11:41 PM
1 Comments, 131 Views
lolita porn
04-13-2024 11:38 PM
Last post by Josephtus
04-13-2024 11:39 PM
1 Comments, 134 Views
lolita porn
04-13-2024 11:36 PM
Last post by Josephtus
04-13-2024 11:37 PM
1 Comments, 133 Views
lolita porn
04-13-2024 11:35 PM
Last post by Josephtus
04-13-2024 11:35 PM
0 Comments, 115 Views
lolita porn
04-13-2024 11:34 PM
Last post by Josephtus
04-13-2024 11:34 PM
0 Comments, 120 Views
lolita porn
04-13-2024 11:33 PM
Last post by Josephtus
04-13-2024 11:33 PM
0 Comments, 115 Views
Comment Share/Bookmark
 
Tutorial Tools Display Modes
How to properly bleed cooling system
How to properly bleed cooling system
wolferj (original post authored by cooljess76)
Published by wolferj-RIP
09-03-2009
Default How to properly bleed cooling system

Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljess76 View Post
There's a lot more to it than just removing the bleed screw and filling the expansion tank. This is why people have to go back and rebleed over and over.

Start by parking on an incline so the nose of the vehicle is angled upward. Air bubbles travel up. With a cool/running engine, turn the heater on full blast. By full blast, I mean turn the temp knob on the HVAC panel to full red and turn the fan all the way to the highest setting. This will allow coolant to circulate through the heater core. Now, pop the hood and remove the radiator fill cap and bleed screw. Slowly add coolant/water to the radiator expansion tank. Continue to fill until you see coolant exiting the bleed hole. You can assist the air bubbles by tapping on the top of the radiator and massaging the radiator hoses. Once you see a steady stream of coolant with no bubbles flowing out of the bleed hole, replace the bleed screw and fill cap. Drive around the block a few times, park on the same incline, let the engine cool and repeat the process 3 or 4 times.
Thanks!
Tutorial Tools

  #1  
By 713bmw318ti on 11-23-2009, 01:47 AM
Default

Man my heater was not working for 3 years and I bled the cooling system today. All i got to say is the heater blows hot!!!!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
By pdxmotorhead on 11-24-2009, 07:08 AM
Default

Redline water wetter. It helps! The chemical breaks the surface tension of the coolant and helps air pass through the system.

Dave
Reply With Quote
  #3  
By dgroebl on 12-20-2009, 09:07 PM
Default

So what if your radiator is already filled to the cold line? In order to get coolant from my bleed screw I have to fill the over flow tank higher than the cold line on the tank. I have to almost completely top off the radiator in fact to get coolant from the bleed screw. Do I need to worry about over filling my cooling system?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
By cooljess76 on 12-20-2009, 09:15 PM
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dgroebl View Post
So what if your radiator is already filled to the cold line? In order to get coolant from my bleed screw I have to fill the over flow tank higher than the cold line on the tank. I have to almost completely top off the radiator in fact to get coolant from the bleed screw. Do I need to worry about over filling my cooling system?
Nope, the fill cap has a built in relief, so the system will not/should not overpressurize.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
By dgroebl on 12-20-2009, 09:26 PM
Default

So then should I eventually siphon some out to get it back down to the cold mark? Or just don't worry about it because it will take care of it's self?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
By cooljess76 on 12-20-2009, 09:38 PM
Default

it'll level itself out once you drive the vehicle.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
By dgroebl on 12-20-2009, 10:14 PM
Default

Thanks. So that's basically what I did last weekend. Seamed like the heater was maybe only 80% of what it should be though. So now I'm doing it again. Its been about 20 minutes, heaters nice and hot, probably got about a quart of coolant on the floor, but the bubbles just keep trickling out! Every 20 seconds or so there's a few more. I'm starting to think head gasket!
Last edited by dgroebl; 12-20-2009 at 10:34 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #8  
By bmvw on 12-21-2009, 01:25 AM
Default

Why is there so much drama with the BMW cooling system. I have a 300,000 mile Toyota and I think I only checked the coolant once. Yet BMW (& I hear Benz also) one little plastic part breaks and $5000 engine.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
By dgroebl on 12-21-2009, 06:20 PM
Default

I think cars always reflect the culture that they came from:

Japan = Memoirs of a Geisha vs. Germany = Femdom
Reply With Quote
  #10  
By pdxmotorhead on 12-21-2009, 06:23 PM
Default

Interestingly enough, I've drained my TI several times to do work never jacked it up tilted it or any thing. Just filled it back up opened the bleed screw and it purges fine....
I always use water wetter.

I've probably just cursed myself...

Dave
Reply With Quote
  #11  
By William on 04-06-2010, 01:30 PM
Default Pressure in the morning

I flushed the cooling system and went through all the procedures listed above. My heat is so hot it will run you out of the car. My problem starts on day 2. After the car sits overnight there is tons of pressure built up. Car is hesistant to start. Remove bleed screw and cap. Pressure is relieved and car starts right up. Not quite sure what is going on, and I know I may have left out some details, but I need some direction.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
By cooljess76 on 04-06-2010, 04:29 PM
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post
I flushed the cooling system and went through all the procedures listed above. My heat is so hot it will run you out of the car. My problem starts on day 2. After the car sits overnight there is tons of pressure built up. Car is hesistant to start. Remove bleed screw and cap. Pressure is relieved and car starts right up. Not quite sure what is going on, and I know I may have left out some details, but I need some direction.
The radiator cap is supposed to have a built-in relief @ a certain pressure. I think it was 15-19psi, but don't quote me on that. I can't remember what it is off the top of my head, but excessive pressure is bad. It sounds like your expansion tank is not relieving itself, you should make sure you have the correct radiator cap. Might also be a good idea to do a cylinder leakdown test as cooling system overpressurization can be caused by a minor head gasket leak.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
By sleighty on 04-07-2010, 06:36 PM
Default

i fixed one of the plastic cooling pipes a few months back, refilled and bled the system with no problems i get a nice hot heater when required and the engine sits at the middle of the temp gauge. However in the radiator reservoir its about half way full, if i fill it to the top and do around a fortnights driving and recheck its gone down to half full again. Could i still have a leak? Or is this level normal? Ive never wanted to let it get any lower than half full so im not sure if i goes any lower
Reply With Quote
  #14  
By cooljess76 on 04-07-2010, 07:16 PM
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sleighty View Post
i fixed one of the plastic cooling pipes a few months back, refilled and bled the system with no problems i get a nice hot heater when required and the engine sits at the middle of the temp gauge. However in the radiator reservoir its about half way full, if i fill it to the top and do around a fortnights driving and recheck its gone down to half full again. Could i still have a leak? Or is this level normal? Ive never wanted to let it get any lower than half full so im not sure if i goes any lower
You might still have a leak or perhaps a cracked radiator/expansion tank. The best way to find out is to use a radiator pressure test kit, pressurize the system to about 10psi and listen for leaks. Another thing, CirrusSR22 noticed that one of the plastic cooling pipes had a defective flange on it that wouldn't allow it to seal properly. Check this thread for more info on that:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18066
Reply With Quote
Comment

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Tutorial: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Tutorial Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Tutorial Tutorial Starter Category Comments Last Post
cooling system troubles tiFreak Engine 0 07-20-2009 09:31 PM
cooling system problems mskura Engine 8 05-08-2009 03:29 AM
So I redid and my cooling system and now... trickiekid Engine 23 06-25-2008 12:44 AM
HOW TO: Bleed Brake System cali-ti Knowledge Base 0 12-20-2005 06:56 AM
HOW TO: Replace Clutch Slave Cylinder and Bleed System cali-ti Knowledge Base 0 12-20-2005 05:13 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:17 PM.


.
Powered by site supporters
vBulletin Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1999 - 2024, 318ti.org

Tutorial powered by GARS 2.1.8m ©2005-2006
© vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2
[page compression: 90.04 k/121.30 k (25.77%)]

318ti.org does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information or products discussed.