Strange galletto issue

[denglish318ti]

Hi all

Been trying to get my galletto tool to work so I can look to get it mapped. I started off by downloading the standard map off the ECU, then I uploaded the map back to the ECU to check everything worked ok, well it didnt! I then downloaded the map off the ECU which I just uploaded. I compared the original map to the reuploaded map and they have different check sums. The car does not start. I looked at the two maps in Win OLS and they are 93% the same, except for the final 7% which doesn't look like a bit of the map at all. Please see pic below, it starts to be different from 03C80, so late on in the file.

Anyone know what is going on here? I bench flashed it using 13v. I have tried it a couple of times and I get the same result.

Cheers
Dylan

[bmwconnect]

sounds like you have bricked the DME because of no checksum correction. What does it say when you try and pull the ECU data?

[denglish318ti]

Thanks for the reply. I can still get the map data off the ECU, does that mean it is still working, or is it properly bricked?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by denglish318ti

Thanks for the reply. I can still get the map data off the ECU, does that mean it is still working, or is it properly bricked?

Sounds to me like you got a bad read and jacked your DME's EWS INS number or you are not sending 13.5volts to the flash unlock pin.

I always use a bench flasher and I always take three reads and compare to ensure I got good reads.

Also you can not flash a DME over the OBD port you need to have the flash unlock pin supplied with 12 volts or you will only get a partial flash back on the DME due to the flash lockout protecting certain code on the DME. Maybe you got a good read but can't get it flashed back properly if you are not supplying 13.5 volts (Battery charger on car) to the DME and flash unlock pin. You can flash over the 20-pin if you make an adapter (I have one that will take your OBD Galletto and convert it to the fit the 20-pin if you want to pay shipping. It would be best if you're not a experienced flasher to just send me your DME and email your first read codes and let me flash the unit back to stock with my bench flasher. No charge only shipping both ways.

Another option if you bricked the DME is to buy a DME kit (DME, EWS and key chip) that is matching. They cost $100 in the US from my parts guy.

Good luck