» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | looove 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 0 Replies, 1,291 Views | | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:45 PM 04-13-2024 11:45 PM 0 Replies, 592 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:43 PM 04-13-2024 11:44 PM 1 Replies, 489 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:40 PM 04-13-2024 11:41 PM 1 Replies, 504 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:38 PM 04-13-2024 11:39 PM 1 Replies, 499 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:36 PM 04-13-2024 11:37 PM 1 Replies, 516 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:35 PM 04-13-2024 11:35 PM 0 Replies, 495 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:34 PM 04-13-2024 11:34 PM 0 Replies, 487 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:33 PM 04-13-2024 11:33 PM 0 Replies, 477 Views | | | | | | 08-13-2014, 06:13 AM | #1 | Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Chicago Posts: 82 | New head cylinder swapped and now not running: Please help! So i got a 1998 318ti 5speed 1.9L and head cracked on me. Replaced it with a new head and now it's not cranking. I have attempted to taken it off and put it again to make sure my timing was even correct. I placed a metal stick into cylinder 1 to make sure it sits at TDC along with the cam shaft locking tool. What I installed that were new: new 284/283 cat cams new crank position sensor new camshaft position sensor new spark plugs new starter new head gasket set (victor reinz) new mls head gasket (.070) new arp head studs and bolts new battery from 4-5 months ago Lights, windows, wipers are all functioning but when i turn the key, it is not cranking. Am i right with the installation of my starter? The smallest wire goes on top, medium one goes at the bottom, while the two other wires go to battery and to alternator? I'm sure it was like that? Please help! It seems to be getting fuel too... : ( | | | 08-13-2014, 11:18 PM | #2 | Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Chicago Posts: 82 | Please help.... | | | 08-14-2014, 02:52 AM | #3 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Bethlehem, PA Posts: 1,106 | Check your starter and make sure it is getting power. BLK/YEL = starter solenoid. This wire is only positive when key is in the start position. Red = There are two. 1 from battery positive and the other to alternator. Both wires are on the center pole. BLK/GRN = positive when key in run position. This wire feeds power to body electrical control module, wiper/washer module. Reasons for no power to BLK/YEL: EWS is messed up or Automatic trans could have bad selector switch and manual trans could have bad clutch pedal switch. You should check the forms, their are plenty of topics about the starter, ews, camshaft sensor, ect causing issues with starting. Best of luck http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...hlight=starter __________________ Check out our new website! https://soltechsolutionsllc.com/ Green Your Decor with the Aspect! Shop for the Grow Light Used by Interior Designers, Growers & People Like You! | | | 08-16-2014, 09:43 PM | #4 | Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Chicago Posts: 82 | Quote: Originally Posted by hotmilk400 Check your starter and make sure it is getting power. BLK/YEL = starter solenoid. This wire is only positive when key is in the start position. Red = There are two. 1 from battery positive and the other to alternator. Both wires are on the center pole. BLK/GRN = positive when key in run position. This wire feeds power to body electrical control module, wiper/washer module. Reasons for no power to BLK/YEL: EWS is messed up or Automatic trans could have bad selector switch and manual trans could have bad clutch pedal switch. You should check the forms, their are plenty of topics about the starter, ews, camshaft sensor, ect causing issues with starting. Best of luck http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthrea...hlight=starter | Hello, well bad news. I just did a compression test today and all cylinders were at ZERO! Was it the MLS head gasket i got. It was a 070 thick....Or did i warp the block from the overheated issue? Before I was blowing white smoke after i got the car fixed due from overheating. Then when i changed my headgasket realized head was cracked. Got a new head cylinder and all these started happening...hate life. Please help! | | | 08-16-2014, 09:56 PM | #5 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 2,451 | Hoping for better, are you certain the test is valid? Were you turning by hand or didja get your starter working? I'd think you would have some compression, even if low. Is your gauge accurate? I feel ya. Good luck... __________________ 1998 318ti Sport - "Cali" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, Cali top 1998 318ti Sport - "Max" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, S52 1997 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior 1995 318ti Active - "Blanca" Alpineweib III/Schwartz leather interior Other Current Bimmers: 2006 530i / 2000 2.3L Z3 / 1997 1.9L Z3 / 1999 540it 1997 318ti Sport - "Huera" - RIP 1995 318ti Active - RIP 1995 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Sold 1994 325i Sedan - "Jade" - Sold 1991 318ic - "Bert" - Sold 1985 635csi sold 1984 533i "Max" Sold 1984 318i sold BMWCCA #160411 SUPPORT 318ti.org! CLICK THE LINK ABOVE! Hosting a forum like this is not free. 318ti.org is one of the best BMW forums on the web because it is member supported, not vendor supported. The cost to become a Supporter is a nominal $10.00... A YEAR! DO IT! NOW! | | | 08-17-2014, 05:56 AM | #6 | Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Chicago Posts: 82 | Quote: Originally Posted by BlackBMWs Hoping for better, are you certain the test is valid? Were you turning by hand or didja get your starter working? I'd think you would have some compression, even if low. Is your gauge accurate? I feel ya. Good luck... | Yeah the tests were accurate. I loaned a compression tool from Autozone and tested it by inserting my key into my ignition and trying to fire her. I haven't hand cranked it yet, which i plan to do that tomorrow after work. And to make sure, i tested the other car with the same compression test and it worked fine. I think the first time when i started the car with the new head cylinder, i probably damaged the block? And now my crank is at TDC and camshafts locked to TDC...it's not working... | | | 08-20-2014, 01:03 AM | #7 | Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Chicago Posts: 82 | So i had the time today and took my valve cover off. Lined up my locking tools after #1cylinder at TDC. I heard something about the lobes need to be facing each other but how when they are being locked? Got ZERO compression on all of the cylinders from this setup.. please help me. | | | 08-20-2014, 01:06 AM | #8 | Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Chicago Posts: 82 | Sprockets are at TDC too right? Tell me what yall think i'm doing wrong for getting ZERO compressions...thanks | | | 08-20-2014, 07:29 PM | #9 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 2,451 | Dumb question: the lobes look off at TDC. Were they calibrated / timed correctly? Speaking from doing M62s not M44s. __________________ 1998 318ti Sport - "Cali" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, Cali top 1998 318ti Sport - "Max" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, S52 1997 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior 1995 318ti Active - "Blanca" Alpineweib III/Schwartz leather interior Other Current Bimmers: 2006 530i / 2000 2.3L Z3 / 1997 1.9L Z3 / 1999 540it 1997 318ti Sport - "Huera" - RIP 1995 318ti Active - RIP 1995 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Sold 1994 325i Sedan - "Jade" - Sold 1991 318ic - "Bert" - Sold 1985 635csi sold 1984 533i "Max" Sold 1984 318i sold BMWCCA #160411 SUPPORT 318ti.org! CLICK THE LINK ABOVE! Hosting a forum like this is not free. 318ti.org is one of the best BMW forums on the web because it is member supported, not vendor supported. The cost to become a Supporter is a nominal $10.00... A YEAR! DO IT! NOW! | | | 08-21-2014, 06:33 PM | #10 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | My thoughts. Remove valve cover remove all spark plugs. Turn over motor clockwise until balancer is on top dead center. Incert wooden dowel or something that will fit through the #1 spark plug hole (Front hole is 1). You want the dowel or whatever you put in the spark plug hole to be on top of the piston. Now rotate the motor a little clockwise and counter clockwise to ensure the #1 piston is actually at TDC. After you confirm that the piston is top dead center ensure the balancer (balancer behind crankshaft pulleys) is on TDC. Now turn over the motor clockwise two full revolutions back to TDC (this removes any chain slack) with the motor at TDC on the balancer and TDC on piston 1 now install the camshaft locks and tighten the camshaft pulleys) Do another compression test and if you have no compression you bent all your intake or exhaust valves by trying to start the motor with incorrect valve timing. Hope this helps, John S Last edited by xxxJohnBoyxxx; 08-21-2014 at 06:35 PM. | | | 08-21-2014, 06:57 PM | #11 | Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Moody AL Posts: 16 | When your cams are locked with the tool and you look at the cylinder one cam lobes, they should look like this: / \ That's about what your look like. If you didn't hear anything ticking when you turned it over, I'm sure it isn't all bent valves unless the timing was dramatically off. One thing, being that I run a machine shop, we see a lot is customers putting heads together and not giving the lifters time to bleed down which causes the valves to stay open slightly. That'll cause you to have no compression, with that said, the time it takes to install the head going at a slow pace usually would be enough time to help them bleed down and seal the valves. Perhaps having left it for a few hours, the valves might have sealed now. If it still isn't sealing (assuming it was lifters originally), then those valves might be the culprit now. | | | 08-21-2014, 10:16 PM | #12 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | Man I just typed a complete book for like 45 minutes then I went back and reviewed the posts and all my typing had nothing to do with where the project is at now. Doh | | | 08-21-2014, 10:48 PM | #13 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | Quote: Originally Posted by ALPINEMTECH98 Sprockets are at TDC too right? Tell me what yall think i'm doing wrong for getting ZERO compressions...thanks Attachment 15135 | No in the picture they are not correct. The sprocket arrow needs to point up but at the angle of the head. The sprocket arrow should be aligned with the cam rear locking squares so you are a few teeth off on the sprocket on both cams. Also your exhaust sprocket should have the bolts around the middle of the sprocket adjustment. Another issue I think is the intake cam timing wheel is not installed correctly, it looks like the metal tang for aligning that wheel trigger is not in it's hole. Another issue will be posted in a few concerning the cam lobe picture Last edited by xxxJohnBoyxxx; 08-21-2014 at 11:01 PM. | | | 08-21-2014, 11:10 PM | #14 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | Quote: Originally Posted by ALPINEMTECH98 So i had the time today and took my valve cover off. Lined up my locking tools after #1cylinder at TDC. I heard something about the lobes need to be facing each other but how when they are being locked? Got ZERO compression on all of the cylinders from this setup.. please help me. Attachment 15134 | In this picture the cam lobes on #1 are almost pointing straight up, which is how mine are on my M4x, on a M50 or 52 the lobes are turned in much more I will post a picture of my cams which I installed with a dial indicator using valve off seat measurements which is more accurate then the holding block. Can you post a link for these cams? Just from the picture it looks like they have a ton of duration like what would be used on a high rpm race motor. Please post a link, Thanks After you install the sprockets correctly maybe the cams will be in time with the motor. Bad news is with both lobes pointing straight up your #1 cylinder should show compression. Maybe the cams are not a correct fit for your valve stem lengths so the valves are never closed. I would install the old cams and do another compression test, but that is just me. That all I got right now using the pictures you supplied Last edited by xxxJohnBoyxxx; 08-21-2014 at 11:20 PM. | | | 08-21-2014, 11:41 PM | #15 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | Cam sprocket picture, correct install. The intake arrow is exactly the same as the exhaust arrow you can see. My sprockets are different only because I run a single row timing chain | | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |